[Engine Rebuild - First Start]

Barry,

 

Congratulations - it's a shame that the video didn't show the grin on your face. I was at the same point last weekend - it really is a great feeling when it all works.

 

Dave

[Engine start up - who'd have thought it?]

Thanks Tom... it really does sound great.

 

Now all I need to do is put the body on .....and everything else!

 

Dave

[Engine start up - who'd have thought it?]

After far too long since building an engine that I bought in parts, yesterday was the day for the big start up. (I had taken the head off again to make sure that the valve gear was still lubricated, and I was happy that the graphogen would still be in the bearings).

 

The timing was set up as per the book, I had fuel at the carbs, spark present (albeit a bit weak), span the engine without plugs and oil pressure came up quickly, installed plugs, hit the solenoid and.......nothing except a half-hearted back fire. Hmm must be ignition somehow.

 

Replaced plugs, points and condenser and ....still nothing except a slightly louder backfire.

 

Took distributer out to make sure I hadn't got it 180deg out - nope all as per the manual.

Then, working through the HT leads, it struck me that they were all 90 degrees out of phase in the distributor cap - odd as the distributor and cap had come off my original, very worn but working, engine. Having re-positioned the leads in the cap, it started on the first press of the button! I then looked at my old engine and it seems that whoever put it together had installed the distributor drive with cylinders 2 and 3 at TDC, not 1 and 4!

 

I am really chuffed that it started and it sounded beautiful (thanks Tom), but it took so long to find out the problem, I didn't have time to break in the cam. I didn't let it idle and am hoping that the time spent turning it over hasn't bu99ered the cam or followers.

 

Dave

[exhaust mounting with CTM J type gearbox adapter]

Thanks for the replies. I have tried CTM, but Colin doesn't do anything off the shelf.

 

At the moment I am toying with the idea of fixing something to the chassis bracket and making the connection to the engine pipe using a stainless steel flexible connector - as discussed by Alec in an earlier post. In theory, this will also take care of any undue strain on the manifolds. I will also look at the saloon/ stag set up, though.

 

When I finally get there, I'll post my solution!

 

Dave.

[exhaust mounting with CTM J type gearbox adapter]

Hi,

 

I am using one of CTM's J type gearbox mounting adapter brackets to support the after end of my J type gearbox on a TR3A - it replaces a rather nasty welded lash up that was originally there. There does not, however, appear to be any obvious way of fitting an exhaust pipe bracket. I have tried a couple of brackets without success and will probably end up fabricating something bespoke. Before I do so, I wondered what anyone else had done and whether anyone had a photograph.

 

Any advice gratefully received.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave.

 

 

 

 

[exhaust manifold sealant]

Thanks all for the replies.

 

I have never used sealant in the past, but suspect that the standard manifold is a little more forgiving than a tubular one. I think I will try with the standard gasket that I have, perhaps with a graphite or copper grease. If I have a problem I will try something else.

 

Interesting thought about ensuring greater flexibility elsewhere.

 

Dave.

[Glue/cement ?]

Very neat!

[Glue/cement ?]

Pete,

I'm not sure I completely understand what you are trying to do, but I would look at the marine adhesive/sealants. Sikaflex 292 is one of the most widely used and does work very well, but there is a practical boat owner test on line that came up with sabatack 750 as the best for bonding metal.

Alternatively, back in the day, gripfil was a very good solvent based adhesive in the building industry that used to stick almost anything to anything. I know it is still sold but, as Alec points out, it could well have been "watered down"

Let us know how you get on.

Dave.

[exhaust manifold sealant]

I am fitting a second hand mild steel exhaust manifold to my 4-cylinder engine. The manifold is, I believe, triumph tune (or a very very close copy) as sold by Moss. On inspection, the wall thickness around a couple of the ports looks somewhat minimal and I wondered how best to improve my chances of getting a good seal. I have noticed references in posts to not fitting the gaskets dry, but no views on what best to use in way of sealant.

 

All thoughts gratefully received.

 

Dave.

[Do wearing Cam Journals make a noise?]

Bet you fitted the gasket dry?

Neil,

 

what do you recommend for manifold gaskets?

 

Dave

[Trying to match trim]

Thanks for the replies - I had already approached the usual suspects to see if I could get a close colour match. Martrim have the best so far.

 

The vinyl used is particularly heavy duty and has quite an unusual grain pattern which I would like to try and match. Thanks Steve for getting in touch and for the contact - I am a bit embarrassed that I had forgotten who I had bought them from, but it is a long time ago!

 

Dave

[Trying to match trim]

A very long time ago I bought a pair of seats to use in my TR3A rebuild. Although nowhere near ready for trimming, I am currently working away during the week and thought that I might usefully wile away the evenings by getting the various trim panels covered. I am pretty sure that the seats had been trimmed to match a TR 4 or 5 trim colour -they are a sort of medium tan- but I am struggling to find a match.

As you will see from the attached photo, the vinyl has a pebble grain which I would also like to match if possible.

I have been trying to remember where I went to buy them, in case anyone recognises the seats, but I am struggling...I am thinking it was NW London, but I could be wrong. The chap was an active local group member.

Any ideas as to possible suppliers, or the colour gratefully received.

Cheers,

Dave

[Trying to match trim]

A very long time ago I bought a pair of seats to use in my TR3A rebuild. Although nowhere near ready for trimming, I am currently working away during the week and thought that I might usefully wile away the evenings by getting the various trim panels covered. I am pretty sure that the seats had been trimmed to match a TR 4 or 5 trim colour -they are a sort of medium tan- but I am struggling to find a match.

As you will see from the attached photo, the vinyl has a pebble grain which I would also like to match if possible.

I have been trying to remember where I went to buy them, in case anyone recognises the seats, but I am struggling...I am thinking it was NW London, but I could be wrong. The chap was an active local group member.

Any ideas as to possible suppliers, or the colour gratefully received.

Cheers,

Dave

[SAH Gas flowed High Port head available]

Tom,

 

I have tried to send you a pm but without success.

If the head is still available, please could you pm me with your e-mail address.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave.

[Gearbox guru needed]

Well, that was an odd one.

I took the overdrive off again an confirmed that the key for the pump cam was still in place. The key I found attached to the magnetic drain plug was definitely the same size, but appeared to be brand new. No witness or wear marks at all. I wonder whether it could have been dropped in a long time ago and only found its way to the plug after I had been moving the gearbox around?

Anyway, I somehow feel that I've had a lucky escape.

D.

[Gearbox guru needed]

Thank you very much for your reply- spot on!

I will take the overdrive off again tomorrow and see what's what.

Cheers

Dave

[Gearbox guru needed]

Steadily working through putting my car back together after too many years in pieces. It has a 2500 saloon j type gearbox mated to an overdrive that was re built and upgraded to TR spec by Overdrive Repair Services when I first bought the car. When I had a look in the top of the gearbox before sorting out the cross shaft etc. I discovered that some of the gears had rust putting on them. No problem, I thought, as I had acquired a spare gearbox somewhere along the way which looks in good fettle. So, overdrive swapped over, cross shaft re- bushed and ready to go......

....until I removed the magnetic plug and found a small woodruff key sticking to it. Now, I have looked at every diagram I can find of gearbox internals and can't find any reference to a woodruff key. The key is about 10 mm in diameter and perhaps 1.5mm thick. Can anyone shed any light on where in the gearbox it might have originated? It is, I suppose, possible that it fell in from somewhere else as there was no top cover when I bought the spare box.

As usual, all thoughts gratefully received.

 

Cheers, Dave

[Damaged thread - advice needed!]

Interestingly, someone suggested a similar approach, but using a smaller diameter tap having the same TPI - in this case probably 5/16 UNC (18TPI) - to work out from the good thread.

 

I am pretty certain that I have only butchered the first thread so, thanks to all the responses, I'm pretty sure it can be rescued. Thanks for the help, chaps.

 

Dave.

[Damaged thread - advice needed!]

Many thanks for the replies - I still feel stupid, but less lonely!

 

We are indeed talking about the female thread that that bolt 69 goes into. I am pretty certain it is 5/8" UNF (18TPI)but I am currently about 100 miles away from the engine so can't double check. At least being this far away does mean I can't do any more damage.

 

Dave

[Damaged thread - advice needed!]

I have done a very foolish thing....

 

Nearing the end of building up an engine for my TR3A rebuild, I temporarily installed the thin belt crankshaft pulley to see how everything lined up. I then had to use a puller to remove the pulley to fit the timing cover. In doing that, I am embarrased to admit that I have damaged the first couple of threads in the end of the crankshaft. ( I'm not usually that ham fisted)

 

I could run a 5/8" tap into the hole, but I am worried that it may start cutting a completely new thread and make matters even worse. Alternatively, I could attempt to grind out the damaged threads, creating a taper into the undamaged ones. Before I cause more damage, I would welcome any advice.

 

Dave.

[4 cylinder gasket- where does it go.]

I am in the process of putting together a 4 cylinder engine.

In the gasket kit, amongst the bits I do recognise, there is a piece of white felt 8mm x 6mm trapezoidal in section about 300 mm long. I assume that this is the felt that the manual tells me to cut into pieces, soak in goo and ram into the grooves up the side of the rear bearing cap although the manual suggests I need more than this.

There is also a cork seal of similar section about 150 mm long. Can someone direct me as to where this goes?

Whilst on the subject of sealing around the rear bearing cap, is there a modern alternative to the felt/ goo solution? Loctite silicone injected through a tube to avoid air bubbles perhaps?

Comments, views appreciated as always.

Dave

[TR4 camshaft]

I have resurrected this post as I have finally got round to putting together the box of bits that I bought ages ago and which I am hoping will soon be a working engine in my rebuild. Like the OP, I was surprised that the camshaft doesn't seem to have much controlling the end float. Having read the replies, am I right in thinking that the back face of the gear wheel bears directly on the front face of the bearing? If so, what stops it grinding itself to pieces? There are some wear marks on the inside face of the gear, but not as significant as I would have thought.

I am guessing that the teeth on the gear wheel shouldn't be too pointy either?

Cheers, Dave

[TR5/6 Cam and followers.]

.....and there is one further factor that is always overlooked & has nothing to do with the cam, followers or any other valvetrain components.

JW

Which is?

[gearbox mounting]

Bob,

 

I have just checked the ORS web site and J Type speedo drive gears are available in 5,6 and 8 starts for £25. It is a long time ago, but it was fairly straight forward to change and ORS were very helpful with advice.

My car is a side screen as well and it all works well with an angle drive.

[gearbox mounting]

My car came with a saloon gearbox with J type overdrive, thanks to a questionable "restoration" carried out for the previous owner. When I got it the speedo didn't work at all and I discovered that the nylon pinion drive was stripped. A chat with Overdrive Repair Services confirmed that the speedo drive gear in a saloon OD uses a different number of starts to that in a TR OD. ORS supplied me with the correct gear which, although it meant removing the innards, was pretty easy to fit. I could then use the correct TR speedo drive and did not have to re build or re calibrate the speedo.

 

ORS also supplied me with the correct drive flange which, in my opinion, is a better solution than slotting or re drilling the saloon one. If you want, they will also re build an OD and upgrade it to TR spec. I finally had this done as the friction linings were damaged and since then the OD has worked perfectly for many thousands of miles. Do not be put off- it is a very feasible and worthwhile improvement.

 

Dave.