Dave Herrod
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Posts posted by Dave Herrod
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I am just at this stage and on a bit of a learning curve - give me mechanicals/ electricals any day.
What does anyone recommend as not too expensive blocks to use for blocking the panels?
There seems to be a whole range of rigid/ less rigid, fixed abrasive/paper, cheap/expensive.
All recommendations gratefully received, thanks
Dave
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Does anyone happen to have a NSF wing in reasonable condition that they would be willing to sell?
Dave.
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I have started looking at the outer body panels that I took off and had stripped so long ago and have realised that the nsf wing is going to need a lot more work than I first thought. Does anyone have a good one hidden away that they would sell?
Dave
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Congratulations! The start of a big adventure.
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I have learned over the years that, as with boats, that is one of those calculations you should never do.
However, you have achieved an incredible amount in a short space of time and now have a car that you know inside out and which should be reliable, you should be proud of yourself. Added to all that, you have also kept us all enthralled with your reports....well done, and thanks!
All the very best with the upcoming adventure.
Dave
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Now that is sobering - 2009 was the last time my TR was on the road! I think I pitched up after the photo, but remember it well.
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Jeff,
A fantastic job, and a brilliant write-up.
I will be following in your footsteps, but probably not for a good few months. I currently have the choice of a pretty shabby original screen or a repro one of distinctly dubious quality which, if I use it, will certainly need trimming. Please could you add the code for the seal that you ended up using for future reference.
Dave
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Hi Tony, long time no hear.
For some obscure reason, I have a pair of TR4 vents. The plastic is in good condition, but there is a slight crack in the lip of one which could be easily glued. You are welcome to them if you want them.
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Ah, I hadn't realised that. I was thinking that they couldn't have changed the position too radically as hard tops would not have fitted. It seems all they actually did was make the guide plates cheaper.
Thanks for all your help.
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Rod, I had already spotted that, thanks. In fact, I now have various photographs - each with lines drawn on them in a possibly over-optimistic effort to verify the fixing position.
David, thanks for your very kind offer. Unfortunately from memory, I think you are a long way away from me. I wonder whether it would be possible for you to take a couple of dimensions - similar to Ralph's earlier post? The first would be the distance from one of the guide plate fixing bolt holes (the small ones between the slots) to the rearmost point of the scuttle panel, and the second would be where a line through, say, the bottom edge of the two slots intersects the rear edge of the panel. I don't know whether the bracket on the Dzus cars would be slightly higher than Ralph's so that the curvature of the panel compensates for the extra thickness of the guide plates.
Dave
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Brian,
I too have been re-acquainting myself with the inside of the steering box. Along the way, I seem to have amassed a small collection of steering box parts - although none of the scrolls is much better than yours. If you need anything that is NLA, shout up.
Dave
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I think I may have found part of the answer in the later posts of this thread.
Am I right in thinking that the earlier bracket picks up a hole in the cross tube mounting?
Dave.
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I thought I would have a nice easy job today installing the steering column on my TR3A, having re_ built the steering box and painted up the column. Try as I might I simply couldn't get the down-stand bracket on the steering box past the chassis cross bar. Hours later, I have succeeded only in scraping off most of the paint, and the column is still on the bench! I knew that I took the column out and replaced it previously, so I was stumped.
I came up with the following theory: The car was originally LHD and, I suspect, had a split column with the type of lower bracket that is welded to the suspension turret. When it was converted to RHD, it was fitted with a long column, and Mr bodgit cut out a section of the lower chassis bracket so the column could be lifted high enough to get it in, but when CTM re-jigged and repaired the chassis, they replaced the lower bracket as it was originally intended. I have managed to find a photo that I took of the chassis sitting in Colin Mathew's yard when I delivered it which shows the bodge quite clearly.
I know this has been discussed in the past, but unfortunately the photographs have disappeared from the relevant posts. I therefore have a a few questions:
Am I right in thinking that the lower bracket changed with the split column?
I don't think my column was ever restrained at this point - does anyone have a photo of the early and later brackets so I can come up with a solution please.
I assume I have no option but to do similar butchery to the bracket to get my long column in. Has anyone done this, and still managed to use the fixings to secure the column?
As always, grateful for any help or suggestions.
Dave.
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Thanks Ralph, I had thought it might be. The centres of the Dzus fittings seems to be the same as the later mounting bolts, but I had thought that the stanchion was a pretty close fit to the scuttle without the guide plate when I offered it up. I suspect I may need to lift them slightly, and was going to cut out a pair of dummy guide plates to make sure.
Does anyone has an early shell from which they could take similar measurements just to confirm?
Not drilling just yet!
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Thanks for the further replies.
Initially, i am using the bare windscreen frame with the rubber seal but without the glass to get the position of the deuz fasteners right such that the windscreen marries up with the hard top. I will then use that to determine the position of the fixing bolts for the guide plates and the slots needed to accommodate the spring clips which receive the deuz fasteners. The chap who did the tub repairs for me also fabricated some sturdy backing plates with tapped holes and milled out slots to mate with the guide plates. Once all lined up, these will be tacked into position.
I well remember the wet legs from when I used it as a daily driver, but most of the water came around the glass seal...until I stopped it with a lot of silicone sealant! I am hoping for a more elegant and original solution this time.
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That is a very good point - thanks!
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Just as an update, I transferred Ralph's dimensions onto my body last weekend and both sides seemed remarkably symmetrical - including check dims diagonally across the cockpit. It is, of course, difficult to hold the windscreen surround and adjust each side, so this weekend I plan to measure it all again and pluck up the courage to drill a couple of pilot holes in the forward fixings which will allow me to play around with the angle of dangle and see how it all marries up with the hard top. Thanks again for all the replies, especially Ralph's dimensions which really should be captured somewhere for posterity.
Cheers, Dave.
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I had a similar problem when I first had my car....except mine would get to the state that the wheels wouldn't turn. If my memory is right, it was something in the master cylinder that had corroded and was occasionally stopping fluid flowing back when the pedal was released. I'm afraid it was a long time ago and can't remember the exact details. I have just done a search through my old posts from 2004 and it seems that the solution was to replace the master cylinder.
Dave.
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Quite right - John does a fantastic job.
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Ah,sorry Bruce, I have just realised that I am in fact talking rubbish. My car is going to be Royal blue, which is a colour only used on later models, but which I think looks good on a side-screen. I'm afraid I don't know about the other blues, so probably best to wait for someone who actually knows what they are talking about!
Sorry for the confusion.
Dave
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Good to hear Andrew!
Take it easy.
Dave
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Bruce,
If/when it is ever finished, my TR3A will be midnight blue. I seem to recall that there are two different codes - one of which has distinct purple overtones.
I remember reading it here, but at least five years ago, and am struggling to find it with the search facility. This might jog someone's memory who knows the answer without looking it up. Might also be worth posting in general technical, as midnight blue and sidescreen cars were never an official item!
Dave.
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Now that is interesting... I didn't think they did, but will dig out the paperwork. I know it ended up costing almost the same as a new chassis would have cost.
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Thanks all,
I have started with the correct packers all-round and tried both approaches - fixing the cockpit bolts first and also fitting the inclined brace bolts first. Either way, one set or the other end up about half an inch out for/aft. I currently have extra long bolts to keep the cockpit fixings aligned whilst allowing me to raise the whole shell, but having tried all sorts of permuations I still can't get near! Had I not had the whole thing very securely braced, I could believe that the tub had folded a bit during handling.
I have a copy of the original workshop manual, but have to admit I didn't check the dimensions after it was repaired by CTM. Speaking to Colin when I had it done, I am pretty sure that he had only worked on one of the side rails.
I will give it one last go!
Whats the preferred order
in General TR Technical
Posted
Thanks Iain and Stuart.
I happen to have some suitable hardwood tucked away in the garage, so will start there.
Now to explore lead loading!
Dave.