Dave Herrod
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Posts posted by Dave Herrod
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Clive
Do I take it that you intend to keep a crossply as a spare ?
Not sure that the boys in blue would like it if the rest were radials. (or have I missed the point?)
Dave
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Thanks for the replies.
I had, in fact, replaced the seal when I replaced the half shaft less than 100 miles ago and this had reduced the leakage but not stopped it. On closer inspection, I found that there was some pitting on the surface of the hub where it passes through the seal. As I plan to replace the axle in the relatively near future, I did not want to fork out the £45 for a second hand hub that was being quoted.
I had a chat with the guys in the workshop at work and they came up with some stuff called Belzona, which is some sort of epoxy metal replacement material that can be tapped, machined etc.
I managed to clean out the pits, fill it with this stuff, and file/sand with fine wet and dry before it went too hard. The result is very smooth.
The car is virtually all back together and I should manage a road test tomorrow. Will post if it works!
Dave
The solution (I hope)
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For some reason my 3A has a lockheed back axle, which I will eventually change to a Girling one.
In the meantime, I have a problem with oil leaking into the brake drum on one side, but can't work out where its getting through. I understand that this is one of the common problems with the Lockheed axle. Can anyone advise if there is a fix?
Cheers
Dave
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Thanks Jean.
where else could I have found that out so quickly!
I am hoping that a second bleeding and the installation of a stay will sort out my problem. However, I still have a nagging suspicion that the clutch has somehow seized or frozen. We shall see!
Dave
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Thanks Jean.
where else could I have found that out so quickly!
I am hoping that a second bleeding and the installation of a stay will sort out my problem. However, I still have a nagging suspicion that the clutch has somehow seized or frozen. We shall see!
Dave
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Don and Jean
Thanks for the comments.
I will fit a stay this weekend and see if I get anywhere.
I haven't had the clutch apart, only the hydraulics and what is really bugging me is that it all worked (albeit with the occasional "graunch") before!
The push rod clevis pin was in the lower hole of the operating lever. I did try the middle one but with no obvious improvement. In addition, the push rod didn't line up too well with the middle hole.
If anyone can bear to go out in the cold, I would love to know how far the pushrod needs to travel.
Will keep you posted.
Dave
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I have just finished rebuilding the hydraulics on my 3A (new pistons and seals in the callipers and new seals in the master cylinders.) Filled up with silicone fluid and bled everything through. Brakes seem OK but clutch won't disengage.
This could be as a result of something I have done, but can't think what. When I press the clutch pedal the slave cylinder pushrod moves back about 1/2" (and the bracket moves forward about 1/4") but clearly not enough for the clutch to disengage.
Given that it all worked when I took it apart a couple of months ago, I am beginning to suspect that the clutch has seized or frozen. Is this likely? The car has been outside all the time.
I have tried to free it by putting the rear wheels on stands, starting in gear and hitting the brakes whilst the clutch pedal is depressed. All I achieved was some violent stalling! (like I said, the brakes seem OK) I have even tried disconnecting the pushrod and pulling the clutch lever back with a pulley hoist hooked onto the chassis, but the clutch still doesn't seem to disengage.
In trying to get to the bottom of all this, I have discovered that:
1. My clutch master cylinder is smaller diameter than standard (5/8" as opposed to 3/4")
2. The slave cylinder bracket does not have a stay as shown in the manual which is probably why it moves forward.
3. The slave push rod is not adjustable.
Clearly none of these helps the situation, but it did all work before.
Can anyone tell me how far the slave cylinder pushrod should travel, which would be a useful check?
What does the other end of the bracket stay fix to? All of the manuals and parts catalogues only show the cylinder end.
Anyone got any other ideas....please!
I would dearly like to get the **** thing going so that I can get it to a friend's garage where I can work on it inside.
Dave
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Clive,
what size tyres did you end up with? I hope to get the wires that came with the car shod and fitted in the spring, so would be interested to know.
Dave
Dave
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My TRA came with 185 radials on steel wheels. I don't have any problems ith them fouling the wings or wheel arches, but the steering is as heavy as a very heavy thing! (Could also be due to poor adjustment/lubrication as well, I guess). I also think they look out of proportion, and will revert to narrower ones when I get the wires on.
Years ago I had an MGB that had Michelin radials on the back. They too seemed to stop wearing out (compound hardening?) but lost all ability to grip. I finally gave up on them when one suddenly developed a big lump in the tread at about 85 as I recall.
I also had a Citroen with Michelins that seemed to stop wearing when they were down to about5mm of tread. They too seemed to lose grip and I had learned my lesson by then and changed them.
so, FWIW my advice would be to stay narrow and ditch the Michelins when they stop gripping so well.
Dave
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Clive,
It sounds as though you are really doing well with your strip down/re-build. I'm very impressed!
Just a thought...what do you plan to do with your Lockheed axle?
For some reason my TR3A has a much earlier lockheed axle which I intend swapping for a Girling one which the previous owner has in bits somewhere. (I'm not holding my breath on that one though). Unfortunately one of the half shafts went bang last night so I'm on the lookout for a spare pretty quick.
Just wondered....
Dave
Lockheed axle oil leaks
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Nigel,
The belzona seems to have worked in as much as I haven't noticed a pool of axle oil on the drive and the brakes still work well. I will take the hub off and have a closer look when I get time.
When I originally changed the oil seal I pulled the hub and half shaft out together and then split them, but this was mostly because I was changing the half shaft anyway. This time around I pulled the hub off the end of the half shaft using a small puller without any problem.
Dave