Dave Herrod
-
Content Count
329 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Dave Herrod
-
-
I am looking for a fuel tank to fit pre-60K TR3A, and wondered if anyone had a good second hand one available.
Thanks,
Dave.
-
I've had a look at the one in my lock up. It is most definitely a Lockheed axle, but the crown wheel bolts are 3/8" unf. The manual says that they changed from 5/16" to 3/8" at axle number TS4731. The Moss parts book seems to suggest that the later carrier will fit- obviously with a new crown wheel - but I don't know what other differences there are. I am guessing that this isn't the one you are after?
As James says, Pete or Tom Cox will tell you everything you need to know and may have the part you need.
Cheers, Dave.
-
I have a Lockheed axle that is surplus to requirements in my lock up. I will go up there later and take some photographs.
Dave
-
After about a years break, I have finally returned to finishing the rebuild that I started about fourteen years ago! My current focus is the fuel tank.
When I took the car apart, the tank was supported on odd bits of wood and mostly held in place by some clearly home-made straps. What I now realise is that I have a post- 60k tank, but my car is pre- 60k hence the dodgy fittings. I therefore have a couple of questions:
1. Whilst it would clearly be better to fit the right tank for the body, is there a better and acceptable way to fit a post- 60k tank into to a pre-60k shell?
2. Assuming I go for a replacement tank, what is the consensus on those currently available? I fancy aluminium, but note that the two widely recommended manufacturers are now not in the game, and also note concerns in respect of the internal plumbing for the breather.
3. Does anyone have a good pre 60k tank surplus to requirements?
All thoughts and wisdom gratefully received.
Dave.
-
The other day, my wife said she had seen a blue TR3 being towed past the house. This morning, I saw a winchester blue TR3 on a trailer going past in the opposite direction. Registration number is something like SEH6, I think. I wondered if anyone knew the car as it must live very close-by and it would be good to get in touch with the owner.
Dave.
-
Thanks again, Don. I can certainly do CBP.
I will have a good look at the screen tomorrow as I don't recall seeing those two holes in the bottom of the stanchions. My screen is a chromed brass dzus type but the tenon plates are aluminium. I did say it was a bitsa!
-
My next question, is should they be black or body colour?
-
Don, I would say that is exactly what they are - thank you.
That leaves me even more perplexed as my windscreen doesn't have those plates fitted and I certainly didn't remove them. Perhaps they were kicking around loose somewhere else in the car or in a box of assorted bits.
Many thanks again.
Dave
-
Thank you all for having a look. As no one recognises them, and I cannot remember taking them off, I am going to work on the basis that they aren't part of my car put them somewhere safe just in case I come across somewhere in a different project where they might fit.
They are pretty small and the holes would only take 1/4" bolts, so nothing very heavy.
Thanks again, guys.
Dave.
-
If I'm honest, I had no recollection of taking them off, but they do share the same red/rust theme as the rest of the car and were in one of the box of bits. I couldn't find them in the parts book either.
-
Quite some time ago I stripped down my TR3A (albeit very much a bitsa) to re-build it. Thirteen years and two lock-up moves later, I am hoping that retirement is going to give me more time, and I am making a concerted effort to get it finished this year -. Having carried out a bit of a stock take I came across these little brackets which, I am embarrassed to admit, I cannot identify.
They are handed and have a slight crank in one leg and are obviously made for the job, whatever it might have been - as opposed the the various creations of Messrs. Bodgit and Scarper who did the original "restoration" long before I bought the car. The battery is for scale and is an AAA size.
Hopefully there won't be too many more I can't identify.
Dave
-
Hi Bob,
That sounds perfect. They have been lying around my house for the last thirty years, and my Dad's for thirty years before that... it's time they moved on. If you send me a pm with your address, i'll post them off.
-
Motor Repair and Overhauling - three volumes
I think these were my grandfathers and appear to have been published in around 1929. They are in soiled, but useable condition and appear to cover everything that a mechanic needed!
I am having a clear out, so free to anyone that is interested - lets say in return for a contribution of postage cost to a humanitarian charity?
-
Hi Bob,
It's actually a 3A, so the motor is on the left.
Dave
-
I'm slowly putting the car back together and currently looking at all the electricals whilst it is too cold to be in the lock up doing the bodywork. My wiper motor bracket is clearly a bodged up version from something else (about par for the course with this car as I keep discovering) and I would ideally like to put in the correct part if possible. Anyone have one kicking around?
Thanks,
Dave.
-
I hadn't realised it was on this weekend. We are staying about an hour south of there for most of this month, so I may well pop up on Sunday as it has been on my "must do" list for ages. Unfortunately the TR is still in pieces back in the UK.
-
Fantastic job!
-
Thanks Rich....I've sent you a pm.
Dave
-
I am clearing out a friend's garage and have come across eight brand new, genuine NGKBP5ES spark plugs that he had bought for a V8 Land Rover. I don't know what else they fit, but someone may want them. All boxed. £1.25 each (£10.00) plus £3.00 postage. Could also split into two lots of four.
Dave.
-
Not sure what this adds to the conclusions, but I am just fitting up the doors o my car at the moment.
It has is a pre- 60,000 shell but has clearly picked up a whole host of mongrel bits over the years - including the later all-steel doors. These are hung on brass hinges that would be correct for the body and work OK with the later doors.
Dave
-
My car was originally exported to the states and has the aluminium AMCO sidescreens. Because of the way the legs bolt onto the bottom of the aluminium frame, they are inevitably very flexible and I found that the only way I could stop them blowing out at the top was to bolt a small "catch" to the top of the leading edge which I could rotate down so that it hooked behind the windscreen tenon plate. It actually worked fairly well, but over time did chew up the tenon plate. I now have a set of steel frames which I will set up as Richard describes when/ if I ever get to that stage of putting the car back together.
-
Great offer, Pete.
Bob, if the shiny bell cranky and bolt replaces a more scabby one, I would be very pleased to do buy the scabby one.
Dave.
-
I'm working in this area as well, but unfortunately don't have the metal working skills of you guys. My tub was repaired with a NOS stanpart rear panel, but I don't think the chap doing it for me checked the angle of dangle against the rear wings. Consequently, the lower rear corner of the rear wing where it meets the rear panel needs to move forwards by about 20mm. At the moment, my plan is to cut off the flange and then reshape/ trim the wing to match the rear panel and make up a new flange to be welded in. However, I have noticed that the alignment is very dependent on the length of the stay just behind the rear wheel. Mine are obviously made from random off cuts and differ from side to side. I would be grateful if anyone could confirm the "correct" lengths of the rear wing stays from fixing hole to fixing hole.
Many thanks for posting your photographs..they are really helpful even if I can only wish that I could emulate them.
Dave.
-
Just for the record....
My eBay offer on this was accepted and I picked it up yesterday. The rear light is, in fact, perspex as suggested by the photographs. I was a bit disappointed that it wasn't glass, but not particularly surprised, and it was clearly a genuine mistake by the seller. The top appears to be very solid and straight and will be a much better starting point than the very rusty one I had started to repair, so a good deal all round.
I wonder if there really were glass ones.
Dave.
old Photos
in Social Scene
Posted · Edited by Dave Herrod
typo
Awaiting export in Southampton