[Speedo Failure #2]

Thanks Chaps,  I actually had a closer look today and can see there is a screw which has come undone slightly and is interfering with the magnet. Booking in for a refurb.  Cheers

[Speedo Failure #2]

Evening Folks,

Speedo fail #1 - couple of years back - quickly narrowed to angle drive with your help Folks - angle drive replaces and gearbox tunnel access panel added for good measure - happy.

Speedo fail #2 - couple of days back .   Sudden large fluctuations in the needle (up and down between 20 and 60) with a slight but terminal sounding mechanical noise  -  a couple of seconds later and it froze at 40 before then dropping to zero.  The cable square end driver thing is turning when running and cannot be stopped by hand (so not a fail #1).  I have whipped the instrument out and got to grips with https://www.szott.com/lotusinfo/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf.  On the inside of the speedo the magnet bar only does a half turn before meeting some sort of stop/block - i cant see what it is as i am having difficulty getting the needle off and therefore the face is still on.   

Just thought i would check in case there was a quick fix i am missing - any thoughts gratefully received.  However, I get the feeling that i will be wasting my time doing any more and that i will be best packing the speedo off to John Ostick. 

cheers!

Dave

[A bit of rust.... How bad?]

37 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi David,

I have just done the same repair on my 4A.  As it is, it is an MOT failure if the bottom of the 'B' post has a seat belt attachment.

I ended up replacing a section of the lower edge of the wheel arch  2" x 5". A section of floor   5" x 4". A section of the outer sill and the sill closing plate.

In your case I would be tempted to remove the trailing arm to give room to understand and sort it.

 

Roger

Many thanks Roger,  yes the B post has a seat belt attachment.  I'll give the trailing arm a go and get that better look - at the moment with just poking around all the rest looks pretty solid so fingers crossed.

cheers

[A bit of rust.... How bad?]

Hi Folks,

I was doing a bit of tidying-up underneath today - somehow a postponed activity from autumn 19.... Anyway, all was in pretty good shape but then i did some brushing on a suspicious area near the left trailing arm.  The picture shows what happened next.

So that's perforations to the right of the trailing arm nut, where the floor pan turns down at the inner sill(?).  To the left of the trailing arm nut it's fresh air about 1cm wide ad 3cm long.  Frustratingly the trailing arm bolt heads both point at the diff and so i cannot drop the arm easily for better access.

It feels to me like some form of L-bracket might be required, after appropriate preparation.  I guess this is a pretty common issue so very grateful for any words of advice and general sharing of optimism or fear!

Many thanks

David

[Angle drive joy (?) and tunnel access panels]

Thanks for the advice everyone.  I will defo go for something more robust - like the use of spire clips.  If I do well I might post some pictures.  If i don't post any pictures, well...

cheers

David

[Angle drive joy (?) and tunnel access panels]

Hello experts!

My speedo stopped working last season...  The speedo end of the cable was spinning alright but could be stopped by pinching with fingers and so I was looking towards the angle drive (thanks to archive forum post from RogerH).  Anyway, I removed the one-piece tunnel today and discovered that the gearbox-facing bayonet fitting on the angle drive was 2 threads/turns loose.  All tightened up now and reckon that will be it - any thoughts in advance of my 2 month wait for dry and salt-free roads??  Hopefully I will avoid the need to buy a new smiths angle drive. 

Also going to take the opportunity to cut in a number of access panels in that pesky plastic tunnel.   My plan is to use the cut out piece of plastic and speed tape to form the access panel as per the attached sketch (black = plastic and red = speed tape with the outer of the tunnel on top side of the sketch).  That's my initial plan using stuff that's to hand in the garage, but grateful for the benefit of anyone else's experience.

Thanks

David

[Non standard HS6 carbs]

Many thanks Lebro!

[Non standard HS6 carbs]

Evening all,

I have a pair of HS6 that id like to fit to my 1965 TR4A (vice Strombergs). 

The carbs are Aud678s from a 2500 TC and have the breather pipe, unlike the tr4a standard HS6. Just wondered if anyone had experience of fitting such and had any tips? Correct needles aside, the rocker cover breather already feeds the manifold so I planned to just cap the breather inlets on the carbs, but i suspect it might not be that simple??

Thanks for any advice. 

David

[Overdrive disengaging]

Quick test drive tonight and the OD stays in if I hold it in gear. Thanks Drewmotty. Think I'll have to adjust spacing on the isolator?

cheers

[Overdrive disengaging]

Thanks very much for the advice everyone. I will take a look at that isolator switch.

cheers

David

[Overdrive disengaging]

Hi All,

 

I have a dicky overdrive. From the plethora of gearbox and OD articles online, I think I know the problem but thought it would be worth posting...very grateful for any input. The set-up is a TR4A gearbox with Type-A OD from a Vanguard. The oil is Hyp-90 and the level is good (fill to spill).

 

The OD drops out, but only in after a period of time running (20 mins+) and only on braking or downhill... and this has led me to a conclusion around the Hyp-90 and scavenging/pumping when warmed-up. I'm looking to change to SAE40 and the article in the latest TRAction (304) has given me the confidence to press ahead.

 

However, the problem is only apparent in 4th gear. No drop-out in 2nd or 3rd when braking or going downhill. That doesn't seem to fit with my pump/oil type theory. Perhaps I am off the mark with my diagnosis? As I say, grateful for any thoughts.

 

Best

 

David