[TR4 Rocker cover]

Hi Dave

Early 4s had open crankcase breathers, crankcase gasses were vented via a pipe close to the fuel pump, Later cars were fitted with a closed breather system, with a vent pipe on the rocker cover splitting to the two air filters, Could be your rocker cover is off an early car if it has no vent on it

Regards

Dale

[Overdrive]

Hi Ade

Try this link to view workshop manual for overdrive.

http://www.jc42.dial.pipex.com/tr/model/overdrive.htm

I think oil contamination is unlikley.EP oil caused the overdrive to slip in low gear in my 4a, but after changing to 40 sae motor oil Ive had no problems, and the gearbox seems ok with it.

You can check the gauze filter on the overdrive, by removing the large brass plug, if you decide to drain the oil.

Try running the car in gear, on axle stands ( front wheels chocked etc) with gearbox cover removed and check operation of adjustment setting lever, maybe a small adjustment is required here.  Mind tie fingers or other body parts, in prop shaft, if you decide on this course of action

 

Regards

Dale

[Overdrive]

Hi Ade

Would agree with John that  it sounds mechanical, if the solenoid is operating the same instant you select the overdrive.  The overdrive pump is driven at road speed, does the overdrive shift better at high road speed or no different? If so this would indicate a worn pump. Low oil pressure generally, would indicate a broken or weak accumulator spring, this can be replaced in situ. An adaptor and gauge  can be made up to check oil pressure via the operating valve plug.  Speak to ORS in Sheffield, usually very helpful. The gearbox must be removed from the car for dismantling. It is possible to split the overdrive from the gearbox horizontally, but reassembly requires the springs to stand vertically (grease helps)  

 

Regards

Dale

[SU Linkage]

Hi Antoni

I can email pictures of the carbs and linkages removed from the car, the only link missing, is the one to the throttle pedal

shaft. I still have no cylinder head yet to fit them on  

 Email me direct if this is any use to you

 

Regards

Dale  

[Running Hot???]

Check this link out before removing your stat.

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/TR/thermostat.htm

 

Dale

[Clutch Slave cylinder diameter]

The Moss catalouge lists the slave cylinder as 516788 from the TR3 onwards. The repair kit is listed as 505704. The only difference seems to be in the daimeter of the master cylinder which comes in .70 or .75 diameter on the 4 and 4a

 

Hope this helps

 

Dale

[Rebuilding Doors]

Cover all the edges around the wings and doors where you are most likely to catch with spanners etc with several layers of masking tape, and cardboard taped to the sill will stop the door, when set too low ( it will be at some time ) from marking the paint.   Put the hinges on the door first, Then get a bolt in each hinge throught the A frame, it helps if someone else holds the door in place. Probably easier to first, set the door level with the front wing ( Looking from above) on adjustment on hinge fitted to door frame, then set to swage line, using adjustment on hinge fitted to A frame. Next set door gap  using a combination of the two adjusting points, but without loosing the swage line. Finally set the door catch.  Then repeat the process 37 times, to get the best compromise :laugh:

 

Regards

Dale

[Water Loss]

Thanks for your reply Marvmul, dosn't look like there are many engine experts out there. On closer examination the head has several cracks in it, and no one thinks much can be done with it    suppose I'l have to start looking for a replacement

 

Regards

Dale

[Water Loss]

Hi All

Over the last few months my 4a has been suffering water loss, to the point where I need to put 2 pints in after 20 or so miles. This has recently been acompanied with vapour comming from the exhausts after the engine is turned off.

On removing the cylinder head, the gasket prooved to be sound, or at least it was! However I discovered what I can describe as a crater, about 1/4 inch diameter, on top of the square throat, of no 2 exhaust port, about an inch inside.

By blanking the thermostat housing hole, and the heater valve, and inverting the head I filled the water jacket with white spirit. Sure enough spirit seaped though this crater to leak out of the exhaust port

Thoughts are, is this a casting flaw, which I can fill with cast weld, (its close enough to the outside to be able to get a rod to it)  or is it meant to be there, maybe a fusible plug, or something which has fell out ?

 

Your suggestions would be appreciated  

 

Regards

Dale

[Originality issues]

Hi Tony

My 4a is in the 64000s so a bit early for your comparisons, however my UK spec car has most of its original bits. the last time it was on the road prior to me buying it in 98 was 1974. I have no reason to believe that when it was put into storage, it was complete and original.

There is no fibre disc on the bonnet, only a felt or fibre infill between to outer skin and the stiffening member just to the rear of the headlight bulges.

The gearstick boot is the strange two piece rubber thingy, which sort of goes together, with the bottom bit going into the fibre gearbox cover.

The wiper motor is indeed black, or at least the main body is, the gear casing and endplate are plain aluminium.

The car came with its original set of carpets, with the rubber heel pad, these were replaced on the rebuild, no rubber mats came with the car. Maybe some of these differences were only found on export cars?

 

Regards

Dale