Dale Moore
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Posts posted by Dale Moore
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Browsing Tr 3 and 4 front plates show the nearside bracket on the 4 is chamfered at 45°, which yours has. Why not just get rid of the blocks and see if the std flex mounts fit then?
Dale
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How are the blocks attached to the crossmember/chassis, Paul? Hopefully not welded
I think Stuart right. You have a Tr 3 engine there, or at least it's front plate
Maybe get it back to as is was for now, and try to get hold of a 4a front plate to get things to as they should be at a later stage.
Dale
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The brackets attach to the 2 studs 1/3 way down the rad
Dale
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Make sure the solenoid is powered when you make this adjustment
Dale
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Might be worth a shot Don. With the screw being stainless just make sure it doesn't pick up when screwing it in. May be a good idea to run a 2 BA tap down if you have / can get one
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2 BA?? Hard to gauge against the rule but looks like it could be around 31 tpi
Dale
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Hi Mark I've sent you a PM
Dale
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On 10/23/2019 at 6:10 PM, Grahamgl said:
Ian,
Neither is he a great responder to emails. I have queries concerning my imported Arizona 4. I sent him two emails neither of which were answered, I then gave up.
Graham
Now were it be a Dove
Dale
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Ditched the wire wheels a few months ago and with bolt on minitite replicas the car has never handled and driven so well I wish I'd done it years ago. I tried many times to balance the wires by so called experts but the vibrations at speed were always there The minilites are half the weight of the wires and the lower unsprung weight seems to make the car less skittish on varying road surfaces if you know what I mean.
I thought long and hard on the width/ apect ratio with the concensus on this site favoring the 165/80. I felt that Id like to fill the rims a bit more with 5.5J so went for 185/65 I would have prefered 185/70 as that would have matched the 165/80 circumferance closer but tyres are rarer than hens teeth. I feel no difference on effort required to turn the steering Infact its lighter ( ok the xas'es were getting a bit worn)
Regards
Dale
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Think you'd go some to generate 400 psi or so by turning the gearbox input by hand, most seem to use a heavy duty hand drill (two hand variety) Have you checked the operating lever is set corectly? Slacken the clamp on the solenoid lever and operate the overdrive off the lever on the otherside. My overdrive seems to now work slightly more slugishly after changing from straight 30 engine oil to penrite 40 gear oil, but the gearbox is quieter after replacing all the bearings. Maybe the oil helps aswell.
Dale
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In a word no. The overdrive needs separatings about 4 ins or so before its clear of the gearbox main shaft, and even if there was room, trying to line up the splines and fit the springs with th box horizontal never mine still in the confines of the car would be more than impossible It took me best part of a day to replace the overdrive onto my box the other week and I thought I was being careful lining it all up !! Before resigning to the fact of removal try a few other checks first
Does the solenoid pull the operating lever fully There iss a lever on the oposite side of the box with the tunnel cover off ( its got to come off anyhow if the box is for out) you can pull it to engage overdrive manually ( with the car moving of course!) Dont try it in reverse!! If this fails see if the pump plunger is stuck. Remove the brass castleated plug underneath, along with all the oil remove the filter and the lower housing ( 2 screws i think) By rotating the propshaft you can see if the plunger goes up and down if its stuck some times a carefull tap can free it. After that theres not much else thats better done with a the assy in the car so its out she comes Its a good oportunity to see the state of the clutch operating fork and pin. Mine was broke and there was about 1/2 in play at the thrust bearing end
Cheers Dale
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Hi Clive
Dont know if Im being over simplistic but wouldnt ordinary 12 point sockets (ring spanner style) fit these nuts
Cheers
Dale
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Should make no difference as the gauges are only a wound resistor, With both gauges failing I would susspect a problem with the voltage stabiliser. Just the heat of a resistor opening and closing a contact. Unless its been changed to a modern solid state type when it will make a difference as I would expect it would be polaritiy sensitive.
Regards
Dale
PS Welcome to the forum
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Hi Gary
This topic was discussed a few weeks ago
Regards
Dale
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Hi Jana
I would sugest that the offer from TR shop is about as good as it gets for replica minilites. Unless you are thinking of serious competition they are more that up to the job
You will have to remove the splined adaptors, this leaves the standard disc wheel hub that will accept the 4 bolt minilites with the only requirement of the standard length wheel studs. (The studs are shorter, or ground down, when using splined hubs so the studs dont foul the back of the wire wheel) There are no additional flanges.
The general consensus is 185 width on 5.5 j wheels with 65 or 70 profile to give the same rolling circumference as the standard 165 by 80 profile.
While I like the looks of the wires on my 4A they are dificult to get on with, and I will get around to changing them to minilites at some stage.
Regards
Dale
Edited to add Dont forget to find an old steel wheel to use as a spare
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The hide end of the copper and hide hammer doesnt mark the spinners but generally needs a bigger smack to satisify myself that its tight enough. This agressive action tends after time, to goose the hide end up. So the next thing to happen is the steel part of the hammer catches the spinner. This is now worse than just using the copper end in the first place
Dale
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Would agree with Ian, that its a good idea to replace the rubber doughnut couplings with tr6 steel ujs.
Takes away the fear of ripping the coupling apart when mauling the steering wheel into a tight parking space
Downside is the road surface is transmitted throught to the steering wheel, and any front wheel out of balance can appear more severe
Dale
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Hi Reinaldo, Dont see a problem with the location, and a location that I have considered To reduce heat transfer when fitted to the normal location, I have longer bolts and a thick piece of nylon in between the coil and block acting as an insulator.
Regards
Dale
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Hi Nic There are varying suggestions on what correct oil pressure "should" be, but on a freshly rebuilt engine I would expect not to be below 30 psi at tick over at normal running temp Mine with 98000 under her bellt drops to 20 or so but still runs at 55 to 60 above 2000 revs
The oil should have no sign of any metal contamination Can't think of whats brass in the engine though
Regards
Dale
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Adrian,
If you can manage to thread the fan belt between the cross tube and the fan extension then I would think the engine is sitting too high there is normally less than 10mm or so gap (there is on the 4a and I think the other 4 cyls cars are the same
Regards
Dale
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Hi Phil
Pipe in question is :- item 208606 PIPE, pump housing to bulkhead Available from Moss etc
Regards
Dale
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Ians quite right that the bottom and inermidiate hoses are different, however the "fit and forget" silicon hoses are listed as one part no. only so they must be the same. They can still be fitted ass about face though
Regards
Dale
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Hi Adrian
I would guess the best bet would be to get hold of the handbrake bits from a solid axle 4a
How do you intend to graft the hand brake mounting to the tunnel?
Moving the lever to a more conventional position will give more leg room, but the 4a has a reputation for a weak handbrake, exacerbated by the shorter lever and slightly rearward position, making it awkward to give it a good pull, if you know what I mean
Ive only driven one sidescrren car (TS2) and although the position took some getting used to, it worked fine
Regards
Dale
New engine mountings, having difficulty fitting them
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Looks like tr3 has radiused corners on the mounting bracket. Yours looks like it has the 45 degree chamfer like on my 4a.