MikeyB1
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Posts posted by MikeyB1
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I suspect that any replies will fall into 2 groups. The " originality at all costs" brigade ( a bit silly really as all cars will have had replacement parts by now, so cannot strictly be original) and those that will say "It's your car, paint it whatever colour you want" As it is already the non-original paint, what difference does it make if you change it to another? Bear in mind though that interior trims were "matched" to paint, so it could look a little odd if you choose the wrong combination of paint to trim. I don't think anyone would be able to accurately judge what difference a colour change makes to the value of the car, especially considering that, as you acknowledge, your car is not concours. Please yourself, not others.
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A piece of plywood or similar to put under the jack for when you get a flat in the show field? Mike.
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On 9/10/2020 at 11:52 AM, ianc said:
In bright sunlight, it's difficult to tell whether the dash light is or is not flashing, and that's why I installed a buzzer many years ago. Frightens any new passenger when first it sounds - it needs to be quite loud to be heard over engine noise!
Ian Cornish
I changed all the dash lamps to LED type, including the indicator lamp. I can now see that quite clearly even with the top down and in sunlight. Less embarrassing than a buzzer. Mike.
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I'm looking for an original i.e. black spherical gear lever knob for my '64 TR4. I know that Moss sell new ones but I would rather have one with "patina". Please advise condition, price and p&p. Thanks, Mike.
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I've been very pleased with the Moltex that I bought from the Club Shop. Mike.
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21 hours ago, Ransomes256 said:
Mike,
If you do not get a closer offer I am in Bridgend and have an identical lift which you are welcome to come and view / try.
Neil
Sent you a PM, Neil. Mike.
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Thanks Neil, I'll bear your kind offer in mind. Mike.
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Hello TR-ists, after much research , head scratching and measuring everything in sight, I am almost at the point of buying a BH Repairs scissor lift. I've seen the posted videos and read all the pros and cons, but something like this ticks more of my boxes than any other product or type of lift. My question is, is there anyone out there, close to me (Bristol area) who has one, that wouldnt mind giving me a demo. Thanks a lot folks. Mike
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My "4" started to do this shortly after purchase. On the overun, downhill especially, it would pop out of 3rd. To cut a long story short. I removed the rubber gearlever gaiter and ran it like that for a while. Problem solved. Cut the original rubber down and sewed up a vinyl gaiter which I glued to the remains of the rubber one. The join is hidden by the carpet. It's been fine for over 3 years. The old rubber becomes rigid with age and newer ones probably not as flexible as they could be. Mike.
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Surely an Ethanol protection additive is meant to be used at all times. Ethanol attacks not only by just sitting there, but as it flows through the system whilst the car is in use. By not using it in the summer, you are allowing it to do it's damage all the time. Ethomix is not meant as just a lay-up protector. Mike.
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1 hour ago, Ben Freer said:
Run out to Mere and back in Geoffrey this morning, dodged a few showers but nothing worth stopping to put the roof up! Zig-zag hill (B3081) blissfully empty on the way home for a little hill climb
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That brings back memories. Happened upon Zig Zag hill many years ago in my Company car, a Vauxhall Cavalier. Had so much fun driving up it, I turned around, drove down and did it all again, Brilliant road. Mike.
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Thank you to everyone who replied, some great technical info provided. However, red face time......the advertiser of the 45D has just revised the info he originally provided. Turns out the distributor in question is a 25, not a 45. Sorry for wasting your time fellas. Mike.
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I'm certainly not a devotee, I refuse to watch those cocky, smirking gits. Mike
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Hello everyone, in my quest to find a S/H distributor to keep as a spare, I have been offered a 45D. Now I believe that these superceded the 25D in the mid '70s, and that the LT lead exited the body at a different place. However, does anyone know what the implications are of using the later unit? Is the advance curve the same, what about the vacuum advance etc ? Thanks folks. Mike.
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No exotic locations for me unfortunately. Did the usual Click and Collect run to Asda and then my wife and I went to a local Disability shop to buy stuff for her sister. Exciting stuff eh? Mind you the red mist did descend for a short while. Now that was fun. TTFN. Mike.
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This is actually getting wierder.
Stuart, thanks, have e-mailed Martin, awaiting reply.
Bob, thanks, didn't know about the Triumph 2000 dizzy. It never crossed my mind that I might have a 6cyl distributor. There's obviously only 4 plug leads, and the optical chopper has only 4 slots. I can only presume that the body model doesn't matter, if you fit the Newtronic system, it has it's own baseplate.
Ian, that's good to know. Unfortunately I have no idea how old my system is, so I'm just providing some insurance.
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OK, this is one for the armchair detectives. I'm getting together the relavent parts to fit to a spare distributor base plate, that will be carried as a spare. At present I have a Newtronic electronic system as fitted by a PO, and this has been brilliant, no problems at all. Upon checking my distributor, I found a cast-in 25D and on the body was engraved the numbers 40975 under which is 11/88. The strange thing is that according to the "big 2" parts suppliers the first number should be 40795. Spot the difference? I've checked this 3 times and I'm not seeing things. Questions are, are "original" Lucas distributors engraved, or are the numbers cast in? Does the fact that it has a miprint indicate a cheapo unit? As I said, Iv'e had no problems, the car starts well and pulls like a train. I'd just like to get to the bottom of this conumdrum. Anyone help?
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Shame they wont allow spectators.
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+1 for CTEC. I have one wired into our campervan to keep the leisure batteries (2 x 120Ahr). It is working 24hrs per day whilst in storage, which can be months at a time. It's now 11 years old. Brilliant piece of kit. Mike.
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Ben, I've sent a PM (well hopefully I did, never done one before) Mike.
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Thanks for all the replies chaps.
Nigel, as you say, MR1 not selling at present, As regards cost, try as I might, I couldn't even get a ball-park figure out of them.
Andy and Ian, have looked at hydraulic ramps many times (and may still choose these), however CJ Autos are out of stock of most sizes. 4 would indeed be nice, but if you include carriage, you're looking at around £900.
Martin, I was also going to store the TR on the MR1. Thanks for the offer of a viewing, may be in touch at a later date.
Currently, I use a very high lift trolley jack and place the car on 4 pillars 17" high, constructed of 4x2 timber. They're extremely strong and the car is rock steady. BUT, it takes an age to raise and lower the car, and they take up a large amount of storage space. I'm now thinking towards constructing my own MR1 style ramp. Would prefer to buy, but it seems that no-one has any stock at present. I have, luckily, the engineering know-how and it's looking as if I could do so for less than £300. Still researching.
Thanks again chaps. Toodle-pip. Mike.
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Hello folks, has anyone experience of the MR1 car ramps? Having done much reading on here about raising your car to get easy access to the underside, I've decided that the MR1 seems to be the best solution for me. I'm not happy with scissor lifts, don't have the access for the tilting lifts, and certainly don't have room for a 2 or 4 post ramp. TTFN, Mike.
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I think Tim may have already pointed you towards the solution. As far as I am aware, LED indicator lamps need a matching electronic flasher unit for them to work correctly.
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I find 2 suppliers very useful. Try Namrick or Spalding Fasteners.
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Study in white - California 1950s
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
My Silver Cross pram had something like that on the hood 70 years ago.