[Return springs on SU choke]

Have received and fitted the Moss cable. I can see that the old cable was also a genuine TR choke cable in that it does wedge if you twist it clockwise but without the click mechanism of the new one. Also the old one has a single solid wire inner rather than the twisted strands inner on the new one. It is much easier to create the spring effect on the twisted strand variant.

I've also discovered that the link from the choke to the quadrant that raises tickover was disconnected, so that's something i can now correct too. So thanks for the information.

ps if anyone wants an old style but functional choke cable I've got one spare.

Jock

[Return springs on SU choke]

Bob

Thanks. I assumed I'd got the standard choke already.

I had a Tr in my youth, very many years ago, and I didn't recall the choke having the click setting sophistication, although it did stay out when you pulled it. Anyway, I think the Moss version seems a better system and I've ordered it already.

Thanks.

Jock

[Return springs on SU choke]

Hi Lebro,

What is this first click, second click business. My choke is just a pull on a knob. Ideally twist to hold out but that doesn't work very well. The click idea sounds much better.

Maybe not a TR but sounds better. Where do I get it?

Jock

[Return springs on SU choke]

Ralph,

Good point. So  the jet position will affect mixture but not idle speed. My car is doing exactly what you describe with yours. Is there nothing I can do to get the hot tickover down to 800rpm, which is what it does cold. (When I say cold I mean after the engine stops needing any choke.)

Jock

[Return springs on SU choke]

My 3a tends to run at a higher rate when idling when it is hot. I can of course adjust the throttle stop but that affects it all the time. I conclude that jets are not being returned to the same position after using the choke. ( There was another item recently, seeing which has caused me to look again at this problem.) Looking closely I can see that one of the return springs is thicker than the other.So I think one choke is being left with the jet head not returned up to the initial position.

The coil diameters are the same but one is made of wire 1.2mm dia and the other 1.56mm.

I'd like to replace the thinner one but i don't want to buy half a dowzen from different suppliers trying to find the thick ones. Has anyone bought one of these springs recently and could tell me what diameter the wire is and where they bought it.

Jock

[Any problems with 10% Ethanol ?]

To revert to the E10 debate, I don't see any discussion of the fuel pump. The diaphram in the fuel pump must be elastic to oerate which probably means rubberised to some extent. Why isn't this the worst failure area? Can anyone reassure me that this is OK? Other than the fact that some people seem to have run cars on E10 in countries where they had to without problems?

I can replace with new any bits of rubber hose in my system and my SU's have metal floats and float valves. But I'm stuck with my fuel pump.

Jock

[Flasher unit]

Hi,

The cockpit indicator light doesn't come on but the external indicator lights are working. I assumed it was the bulb or the contact/earth but as far as I can see there is no output from the central pole on the flasher unit, even though it's working in other respects. But my circuit tester doesn't much like detecting a fast flashing on/off voltage. Before I rush off to buy one, can anyone tell me if that is even possible?

Jock

[Putting off piston ring repair, for how long?]

Just a thought. Poor compression can also be due to poor valve seats. Most likely would be exhaust valve which can get burnt out more quickly if not using hardened seats to compensate for lead free petrol.

I had the same symptoms as you, but went ahead with a major engine rebuild. But the main area that was defective was valve seats.

Engines have a remarkable ability to run once they are running even if they are very difficult to start.

Good luck.

[Interesting clutch problem]

I loosened the bleed screw, only the barest trickle came out. I then tapped the clutch release lever with a hammer and it moved smoothly back. Clutch works perfectly.

I think the slave cylinder had jammed. When the pedal is fully depressed and the clutch release lever fully rotated the actuator rod betwen them is at a rather nasty angle to the cylinder.  I'm going to move the actuator to the hole on the end of the release lever to reduce the the throw on the clutch. I don't need all the disengagement that I'm getting at present.

Thanks anyway.

Jock

[Interesting clutch problem]

Getting the car out of the garage after not driving it for a couple of months I depressed the clutch before starting the engine. Aftera little churning it started. I released the clutch pedal and warmed the engine up. But when I tred to repress the clutch again the pedal was solid, would not travel down at all. I have checked under the car and i can see that the slave cylinder is fully extended and the clutch release arm has compressed the springs bearing on the clutch plate. In fact I can put the car in gear and start the engine without depressing the clutch pedal. So the clutch system is now locked solid . Somehow I have effectively pushed out the piston in the slave cylinder and then managed to suck in more oil into the master cylinder as the pedal came back up.

How could this happen? I suppose I can release it by releasing the bleed screw when I'll get doused in hydraulic oil escaping.

Or is there a better way? I suppose I'll need a new master cylinder ( actually the seal at the bottom). HAs anyone had this problem?

In hope of a better answer,

Jock

 

[MWK 950]

Does anyone know if this TR2 still exists. It was dark blue when I last had it in 1968 !

Any info welcomed.

Jock Low

 

[SU "choke" issues]

I've been round this one. Both the problem of wrong needles and also wrong jets - I guess over the years someone fits something they have rather than buying again - and also dodgy choke application. If you examine the choke linkage between the carbs you'll be depressed to see there are about eight connections in the linkage in total where you can lose movement and result in your original pull on the choke being dissipated. I replaced most of the pins, which got it as good as it'll get without replacing the weird pressed arms as well.

I also did the valves in the head (separate problem) and with the engine easier to start now anyway ( better compression, correct needles etc) the choke is adequate to get started even in winter - the real test.

Jock

[Adjusting Back Axle]

If by any chance you have wire wheels, you might want to check how much you can rotate the wheels on the splines. Ans also the u/j's and spline on the prop shaft. It all contributes.

I started worrying about a noise going on and off the throttle in top gear last year. Over the last 12 months it gradually became more obvious and eventually a marked noise from the diff. On strip down by Moss it proved to be a chip in the crown wheel. (And I found metal slivers in the oil to confirm this.)

Hopefully your problem will be cheaper to resolve.

[back axle TR3A recon in Devon, Somerset ?]

I need to get the oil seals on my half shafts replaced . Can anyone suggest competent people in Devon/Somerset. (I know Revington exist.) Also is there any reason why I would not get a recon diff from Moss at a much lower price than Revington?

For anyone interested the noise I thoiught might be from my diff was indeed from my diff. I think an oil seal failed, and I suspect that lack of oil has damaged a bearing or two in the diff.

Thanks for any advice.

[Back axle TR3A - advice needed]

There is no end float on the flange protruding from the diff case. When you turn the flange by hand you can feel an initial quite small amount of play and then a separate larger amount before all the slack is taken up. the first bit might be the spline on the flange but the second larger bit must be inside the diff. It feels the same whether you stope one wheel from turning or allow both to turn.

Is this ok, or even if not ideal is it quite common in old cars ?

[Back axle TR3A - advice needed]

Pursuing a clunky rattle noise, which is only noticeable as you float between power on and power off, I have removed and examined the propshaft. The U/J's seem ok and the sliding spline seems good. But I can turn the drive into the diff by,say, 10 degrees before the road wheel turns. On a P1800E Volvo that I have the play is minimal, say 1-2 degrees.

Can anyone tell me what to expect on the TR? Before I get into taking off and replacing the back axle.

Thanks .

[3A differential]

Thanks for suggestion. I seemed to have forgotten the bit between gearbox and diff. Anyway, definitely some play in the from UJ (i'd replaced the rear one some years ago). So I'll fix that.

There is of course also free movement in the diff. Any idea how much is to be expected?

thanks

jock

[3A differential]

Short of stripping it, are there any checks I can do on my diff ?

In 4th if I feather the throttle between the engine driving and coasting, I can feel a vibration in the gear stick and a metallic noise. It's not loud but I feel something is different from last year. As it's a straight drive in 4th (?) I assume it's not likely to be in the gearbox, so the diff is my next best guess.

So any checks I can make?