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  1. Hi, The cockpit indicator light doesn't come on but the external indicator lights are working. I assumed it was the bulb or the contact/earth but as far as I can see there is no output from the central pole on the flasher unit, even though it's working in other respects. But my circuit tester doesn't much like detecting a fast flashing on/off voltage. Before I rush off to buy one, can anyone tell me if that is even possible? Jock
  2. Just a thought. Poor compression can also be due to poor valve seats. Most likely would be exhaust valve which can get burnt out more quickly if not using hardened seats to compensate for lead free petrol. I had the same symptoms as you, but went ahead with a major engine rebuild. But the main area that was defective was valve seats. Engines have a remarkable ability to run once they are running even if they are very difficult to start. Good luck.
  3. I loosened the bleed screw, only the barest trickle came out. I then tapped the clutch release lever with a hammer and it moved smoothly back. Clutch works perfectly. I think the slave cylinder had jammed. When the pedal is fully depressed and the clutch release lever fully rotated the actuator rod betwen them is at a rather nasty angle to the cylinder. I'm going to move the actuator to the hole on the end of the release lever to reduce the the throw on the clutch. I don't need all the disengagement that I'm getting at present. Thanks anyway. Jock
  4. Getting the car out of the garage after not driving it for a couple of months I depressed the clutch before starting the engine. Aftera little churning it started. I released the clutch pedal and warmed the engine up. But when I tred to repress the clutch again the pedal was solid, would not travel down at all. I have checked under the car and i can see that the slave cylinder is fully extended and the clutch release arm has compressed the springs bearing on the clutch plate. In fact I can put the car in gear and start the engine without depressing the clutch pedal. So the clutch system is now
  5. Does anyone know if this TR2 still exists. It was dark blue when I last had it in 1968 ! Any info welcomed. Jock Low
  6. I've been round this one. Both the problem of wrong needles and also wrong jets - I guess over the years someone fits something they have rather than buying again - and also dodgy choke application. If you examine the choke linkage between the carbs you'll be depressed to see there are about eight connections in the linkage in total where you can lose movement and result in your original pull on the choke being dissipated. I replaced most of the pins, which got it as good as it'll get without replacing the weird pressed arms as well. I also did the valves in the head (separate problem) and w
  7. If by any chance you have wire wheels, you might want to check how much you can rotate the wheels on the splines. Ans also the u/j's and spline on the prop shaft. It all contributes. I started worrying about a noise going on and off the throttle in top gear last year. Over the last 12 months it gradually became more obvious and eventually a marked noise from the diff. On strip down by Moss it proved to be a chip in the crown wheel. (And I found metal slivers in the oil to confirm this.) Hopefully your problem will be cheaper to resolve.
  8. I need to get the oil seals on my half shafts replaced . Can anyone suggest competent people in Devon/Somerset. (I know Revington exist.) Also is there any reason why I would not get a recon diff from Moss at a much lower price than Revington? For anyone interested the noise I thoiught might be from my diff was indeed from my diff. I think an oil seal failed, and I suspect that lack of oil has damaged a bearing or two in the diff. Thanks for any advice.
  9. There is no end float on the flange protruding from the diff case. When you turn the flange by hand you can feel an initial quite small amount of play and then a separate larger amount before all the slack is taken up. the first bit might be the spline on the flange but the second larger bit must be inside the diff. It feels the same whether you stope one wheel from turning or allow both to turn. Is this ok, or even if not ideal is it quite common in old cars ?
  10. Pursuing a clunky rattle noise, which is only noticeable as you float between power on and power off, I have removed and examined the propshaft. The U/J's seem ok and the sliding spline seems good. But I can turn the drive into the diff by,say, 10 degrees before the road wheel turns. On a P1800E Volvo that I have the play is minimal, say 1-2 degrees. Can anyone tell me what to expect on the TR? Before I get into taking off and replacing the back axle. Thanks .
  11. Thanks for suggestion. I seemed to have forgotten the bit between gearbox and diff. Anyway, definitely some play in the from UJ (i'd replaced the rear one some years ago). So I'll fix that. There is of course also free movement in the diff. Any idea how much is to be expected? thanks jock
  12. Short of stripping it, are there any checks I can do on my diff ? In 4th if I feather the throttle between the engine driving and coasting, I can feel a vibration in the gear stick and a metallic noise. It's not loud but I feel something is different from last year. As it's a straight drive in 4th (?) I assume it's not likely to be in the gearbox, so the diff is my next best guess. So any checks I can make?
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