[TR4 boot floor no nuts room]

Here hopefully are a couple of pictures

 

[TR4 boot floor no nuts room]

I feel silly asking this but I just don't see how to do it.

I have fitted a new floor and it came with two holes for the boot lid catch plate.

But the rear of the floor is lined up and flush with the lip of the rear valance.

So if I put in a couple of nuts in there it will push out the valance lip.

 

Trying to get my camera to work as a good picture says it all, but having a couple of techy problems with it.

 

Thanks in anticipation,

Rob

 

[TR6 EBJ710J White]

TR6 EBJ710J UK PI bought as a project but I had to sell it on as another project was looming.

Sold it to a nice chap up North circa Feb 2014.

 

Is it up and running yet ?

 

Rob

[TR6 WLY444M aka Willy]

TR6 UK PI Mimosa Yellow WLY444M

I bought this car as a barn find in Sussex and got it up and running sweet with an MOT.

Sold it on as I had another project looming, is it in the Register now ?

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TR6 EBJ710J white]

That was meant to be EBJ710J, how can I change the title of the post ?

[TR6 EBJ710J white]

TR6 EBJ710J UK PI bought as a project but I had to sell it on as other projects were looming.

Circa Feb 2014 sold it to a nice chap up North.

 

Is it up and running yet ?

 

Rob

[Willy, where are you now ?]

TR6 UK PI Mimosa yellow with reg WLY444M aka Willy, where are you now ?

 

I bought this car as a barn find circa 2011 in Sussex and got it up and running sweet with an MOT.

Sold it on as I had another project looming, is it in the Register ?

 

Rob

 

 

[TR4 to TR4A matching]

RobH,

No problem there, this TR4 came off the road in 1981 and was stripped and carefully stored, in a large number of cardboard boxes, so new modern parts at all.

I am also a 'technofobe' (sp) so I prefer as original as possible.

Most parts I am refurbishing and replaciing so it will still look and feel like it did in 1981.

I am only buying new when parts are missing or broken.

The voltage stabliser is crusty, rusty and tired bit I am hoping it will still work.

I know many of you on here would rather just replace all with new parts, but that is not the way I am doing this restoration, apologies up front.

 

RobG

[TR4 to TR4A matching]

Lebro,

Ok so maybe easier just to switch over to -ve earth, sounds easy.

But what about the voltage stabiliser, is that ok, Revington say to use a different 128484A for -ve earth, rather than 128484, will my old one be ok in the swop over ?

 

Rob

[TR4 to TR4A matching]

Just want to check something, if you remember this car was totally dismantled and came with no battery and no cables.

I have a modern battery to fit where the +ve terminal is larger than the -ve, but I want to keep to the original spec.

The car still has a dynamo, so I am assuming, checking my workshop manuals and parts manuals that a TR4 was originally +ve earth.

I will for now be keeping the dynamo, can I assume therefore that it was not converted to -ve earth at any time, eg for a radio, if it still has the dynamo ?

Or if it was, is there anyway I can tell ?

 

I plan to wire it up as a positive earth system, any issues I need to know about please ?

Starter motor turns in the correct direction :-)

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

[TR4 to TR4A matching]

Thanks all for the replies so far, very useful and reassuring.

Yes I do have 511695 cylinder head so all seems good so far.

This phase is just trial fit to see how complete the engine is and what state it is in.

I will be rebuilding from scratch at a later date, regrinds and liners to look at.

 

Regards,

 

Rob

[TR4 to TR4A matching]

Hi all,

 

This is a TR4 Clutch conundrum

My problem and question is about a mix of TR4 and TR4A parts.

Some history: I purchased FML604B, a TR4 1964 UK 2 owner car in Summer 2014, complete with late 1980's set of heritage body panels.

Most outside panels are still in original patina Conifer Green, wire wheels and overdrive, I have the heritage certificate to confirm the build.
I have spent the last year building up the body tub from basically a front bulkhead and a rear deck.
This has gone smoothly, brilliant panel fits, chassis was rock solid with no bends or welds so used as a good jig.
But, as the car was purchased in a thousand pieces, I have now sorted through the numerous boxes to realise I have two sets of engine parts. The engine block is CT64863E so is a TR4A engine block, I have duplicate most other parts so I guess the original block (CT31915E) is no more, cracked or blew up. The two previous owners sadly cannot help, no need for further details here.

So what can I mix and match ?

I have assembled the best parts for the engine and it turns over with 50lb psi at churning speed.
But do I have a TR4 or TR4a cylinder head, my parts books imply same part number, is this true?
The SU carbs and manifold fit, so far so good.

But the Flywheel seems to be a problem area. it came with 2 flywheels and one clutch, the clutch matches the TR4 gearbox and I was able to get the TR4 flywheel on the TR4A block ok.
As they have different dowel pins on TR4A clutch, I used the TR4 flywheel, thus we come to my main question.

Is it ok to match a TR4 flywheel and gearbox to a TR4A engine block ?

And if I may waffle on a bit longer, are there any other differences which will bite me in the butt later ?

Any help would be most appreciated, it's like a mega meccano kit, great jigsaw with lots of puzzles.
My other TR projects were all complete cars, so this a new area for me.

Rob