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Posts posted by RobG
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Me too on asking/sale price
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I am restoring a 1964 TR4 that went off the road in 1986 and got stored in a barn.
With the car purchase in 2014 came all the panels I needed to build the new tub and they had date stamps of 1988.
They fitted together very well, so can anyone suggest the source of these in that era ?
The label on each panel only had the part number and the date supplied, not the origin.
My guess is Stanpart or Cox and Buckles as the then owner lived in South London.
Thanks
RobG
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On a recent post about which suppliers were best, I just happen to mention that there was a difficult to find item I needed. For ref it was a LH caliper mounting for a 1964 TR4.
A couple of kind posters sent me a PM that they had one lying around and would I like it.
This would have been much better than me already buying it from a well known supplier, we could keep trades between ourselves.
So, is there anywhere I could have put a request up for the part that I don't know about ?
Assuming we don't want to clog this forum with loads of requests, here is an idea.
I see we have a Cars Reunited, could we have a 'Parts Needed' section, where we can put up our requirements and anyone can look in there when they feel the urge to help out. I think we would need to ban advertisers just trying to sell otherwise it would get overwhelmed.
All feedback always welcome.
Rob
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Thanks all, some good views and suggestions.
I just ordered some bolts from Leacy, they are excellent on price, though the range of parts is limited.
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Roger,
I understand that some parts are not available, but my point was his 'customer service attitude' at Moss, it was awful.
I suppose my question is whether anyone else has noticed this with Moss or was he just having a bad day.
RobG
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I needed some tricky parts today, example LH TR4 brake plate 133500, Moss catalogue said 'Call' so I did. The guy was really slow to respond, not helpful at all. May need to get it as a used part. But, what does the panel think on these suppliers ?
I find Rimmer the best, accurate, have more parts, but prices a little more higher.
I find Moss a bit generic, they seem to cover more manufacturers and not so helpful, less specific.
I find Leacy seem good price wise, though only cover major items, if you need specific small items, often not there.
I find Revington TR good until I accidentally hit empty Cart rather than update Cart and lost the lot.
Who is the best supplier ?
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Graeme,
The only dates on mine log book copy are the original reg date of 17th April 1964, my assumtion is it is the original photocopied by DVLA.
My enquiry to DVLA states he was the first owner so if there was a duplicate book along the way I would have assumed they still had the original details.
It could be the owner had several sports cars and his wife has confused this car with another.
RobG
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Hi,
Does anyone have info on this TR4 Green 1964 wire wheels with overdrive.
There is ambiguity over the first owner, DVLA says John Broadrick was the first owner but his wife says they bought it from a 'posh' lady in Richmond, confusing.
Can the DVLA lose first owners ?
I have a copy of the original logbook from DVLA showing JB as the first owner.
Sold once more to Alister Simpson and I am the 3rd owner.
Any information greatly appreciated, it is being restored by me.
Thanks, RobG
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Just looking in Moss catalog ....
Page 75
At chassis number CT23383, Triumph introduced an amazingly bizarre 'deep dish' rear spring with a 3" block spacer between the spring and axle ... and so on and see catalog for more, hope this helps ...
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Richard,
Well you certainly highlighted a few bad areas on that car, I gather you have seen the car in the flesh.
This will be an eye opener for the new owner if he happens to be TRR member.
Pop rivets in the sills, sacre bleu, I use them to position, but they are removed puddle welded over on finish, hope that ok.
Re-sprayed several times ? I thought this was an 'original unmolested barn find' ?
Thank you, I am revitalised, I will get back to my restoration with new vigour.
Have nearly finished new bodyshell rebuild, lifting carefully onto suspension frame so I can roll out chassis and start on suspension and drivetrain.
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While we are on this subject, the TR4 I am restoring came with no radiator, so I have no exchange.
What would be the best way for me to proceed:
Buy an old original rad and get it recored as per AlanR above
Buy a brand new original type copper core from example Rimmer
Buy a brand new alloy radiator ditto
Any other options ?
Anybody got a good original they no longer need ?
RobG
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I have heard about the string in piston idea but the story was how to change the oil seals on a valve without taking the head off.
String keeps valve in place, not sure how they compressed the valve though as cannot use compressor, maybe a push tool of some kind ?
Sounded plausible but must admit never tried it, we ok as not got oil seals anyway, far as I know on my TR4 !
Edit: Apologies I see Lebro been there done that, lol.
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If this is the SC parts based in Crawley, it was handy for me as I worked nearby, bought some parts and they were good quality, though a little pricey.
Seemed to be German sourced and mainly targetting Jaguar and Austin Healey.
They only seemed to do major selling items, any small widgets and I had to go to Rimmers or Moss.
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Crikey, am I wasting my time restoring my TR4 ?
Should I just send it to auction as it is, maybe I am spoiling it as a full blown amateur, maybe I am devaluing my car.
It is a UK 1964 TR4 two owners with copy original log book, BRG with wire wheels and overdrive.
All exterior panels still in original paint, even has chrome indicator stalks.So, is it worth more left alone or 'rebuilt' by me with the stanpart panels I got with the car, it came off the road in 1988 and the panels were all purchased then, I must say they have been an excellent fit.
BTW, Dawn and kego, look like you both doing a superb job, hope mine will look that good soon.
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Richard,
Brilliant trick. worked a treat, thanks.
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Too true, I saw a nice TR6 last year with triple webers for £10k but said no as I like PI.
But to jump to £35k. dream on ...
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Good question, what is required to go to the next stage.
In my little world, I bought a non runner and got it road legal and sold it for double my original cost6, but what if ....
If I did a full restoration, that car for sale now is totally different, what would I have spent ?
RobG
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I remember that hole in the chassis t-shirt, so that confirms it is the same car ;
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Darren,
I bought it as a barn find non runner in May 2009 for £2000.
I sold it in December 2011 with MOT, went to a chap from London SW14.
He did say he was looking to restore one, not sure if he did the work or farmed it out.
Interestingly, it already had 14 former keepers when I got it.
RobG
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Is that really the mimosa yellow car I sold for £4250 a few years ago ?
Not a lot surprises me these day but that does.Why spend £35,000 plus my sale price and then soon after try and sell for £35,995.
If I remember the chassis was ok and all the body panels were soundish, it was just really tatty.
Thanks for pointing it out, here a picture from when I had the car.
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Am I going nuts ?
Trying to fit the back plate to the rear light holder and which way around do they go ?
Have looked at many examples, one attached from Walter showing clearly attached on inside of inner wing and dishes outwards.
Then looked at TRGB online catalog and it seems the wrong way around, picture attached.
Have TRGB got the left and right mixed up ?
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Roger,
Yes that sounds a very simple and practical solution and I will probably do the same.
I need to get to look in an original TR4 next time I am at a club meeting or show just to see what the factory did.
If anyone has a handy 'original' picture of their boot handle catch plate that would be brill.
Thanks
Rob
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Thanks for the replies, but my main question is how to get the nuts behind the boot floor when it is flush up against the valance ?
Oil pressure on half engine
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I got my engine in pieces in many cardboard boxes.
I have built up the block with the old pistons but new main and end bearings.
Bores and crankshaft seem ok, just to see if it will fire up before a serious rebuild.
I have installed the oil pump, seals and sump etc so is now oil tight.
I fitted a socket to the oil pump drive shaft and with a slow anti clockwise turn get 50 pounds oil pressure easy.
Oil spurts out rocker feed and squeaks around the camshaft bearings.
So, is this a good sign I would get 50 pounds at tickover ?
Hope so.
Rob G