spyder dryver
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Posts posted by spyder dryver
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4 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:
That's a hot looking 'BEC' and if it's anything near as fast as my 93 RRN FireBlade (sold 3 years ago) then it was a lot of fun when it wasn't trying to kill me!
Don't recognise the driver though, is it Anne Hegerty?
Cheers, Andrew
Ha-ha-ha! Ann Hegerty?? Apart from zero chance of her being able to get in the car you've made my day!
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On 7/28/2022 at 11:07 PM, Andrew Smith said:
Haven't been on the forum much for a few years, so thought I'd update this thread with my new(ish) arrivals.
1972 built UK model Honda XL250 K0 Motosport 'survivor' with 10,300 miles from new, photo in the Hampshire Hills (April 2022):
2018 BMW R1200 GS, photos in Spain, Andorra and South of France (June 2022):
Hi Andrew! The XL takes me back a bit. My brother had a CB250K2 in the early 70s. I don't have a motorbike in my garage but I do have a Bike-engined-car, usually abbreviated to BEC. It's a Stuart Taylor Motorsport Phoenix Fireblade and has the 929 engine. I built it myself with a friend, Eldon, a master fabricator. It has about 150bhp but only weighs around 430kgs so it doesn't hang about! Lots of CNC parts, titanium exhaust and paddleshift etc. Sadly, it adorns the garage instead of getting used.
Can anyone identify the mystery driver???
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19 hours ago, OldBob said:
Upstream of the pump is at a pressure of something like 100psi, if the line had a break of some kind fuel would come out, not air go in.
You seem to be confusing Upstream/downstream Bob. Upstream is before the pump, downstream after. Many moons ago we experienced this phenomenon on our TR7V8 racecar. It manifested itself as a high RPM misfire which took ages to diagnose and cost Mick (Richards) his first victory. Snetterton 1990.
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Try checking the connections UPSTREAM of the new pump. Air may be being drawn in, some of which will end up in the tank via the return line and could cause pressure build up if the vent is either compromised or is acting "one-way", the wrong way.
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Happy 71st Mick.
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For anyone interested here is the compression calculator that I used on my last build. It takes account of pretty much every variable and calculates the "dynamic" compression ratio.
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/compression/compression.shtml
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13 minutes ago, stuart said:
One thing you also might like to bear in mind is once you have applied this sort of polish/coating if you ever need to have any paint work done subsequently its going to add to the price as its a bugger to get off to prep for repaint.
Stuart.
My bodyshop owning chum has said the same. He says that treated paintwork is noticeably "harder". It's not just a polish. The first time he came across a Diamonbrite'd car he contacted the company who sent out a full kit for re-application, FOC. He has, since then, treated a number of cars and I have helped him. The hardest bit is the high speed polishing necessary on old paint. On new paint it's no more finicky to apply than any other good polish.
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Why not buy a Diamondbrite kit off Ebay and do it yourself? I got a full dealer kit for £30 which includes the two treatment bottles as well as top up polish, glass cleaner, tar remover, leather treatment and Scotchbrite type fabric spray. There's even an LCD panel spray. ( Ha-ha! TR4A.) Your car with it's fresh paint shouldn't need any prior polishing. You won't get the warranty by doing it yourself but you won't get a bill for £500 either. I've done a few and it's not difficult.
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I took them off my GT6 to make (frequent) trunnion replacement easier, otherwise I'd likely have left them on. My kit car has GT6 front suspension and has never had brake shields. How's that for a non-committal answer. If you're suffering from brake fade I suspect that a change of pad material would be a better remedy than removing the shields.
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2 hours ago, ianc said:
About 1966/1967 the first single filament Quartz Iodine (QI) bulbs became available, and I drove from Esher to somewhere near Ingatestone to purchase a pair, which I fitted into my TR2's spotlamps. Iodine is a halogen, so the units later became Quartz Halogen.
Later (before 1969, I'm sure), dual filament QI bulbs became available, so those went into the TR2's headlamps. They certainly made a deal of difference in quality of light output for the same wattage, and made night driving much easier, particularly with all 4 lamps illuminated when on full beam.
Ian Cornish
Your post brings to mind the scene in the Italian Job where they were fitting spot lamps to the Minis in preparation for the heist. Charlie enquires " Are they quartz iodine?"
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The (non?) legality of aftermarket LED conversion is covered on the Autobulbsdirect website. The disparity between "legality" and MOT compliance" is referenced.
https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/blog/are-led-headlights-legal-in-the-uk/
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1 hour ago, RogerH said:
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I hope he has an apprentice training up.
Roger
I hope so too Roger. There should be a law compelling it. I worked in an Aerospace machine shop, mixed CNC and manual. The accumulated years of skill and experience under the one roof was almost immeasurable. Many were old school and "time-served", having apprenticed at Rolls Royce or Royal Ordnance. Some of the "manual" operators regarded themselves as superior beings, often resulting in a certain "nose in the air" attitude towards we CNC "button-pushers". Different skill sets, that's all. Over the years many were reaching retirement and eventually walked out of the door taking a lifetimes worth of knowledge with them. I suspect, like me, that you would have each one allocated with an apprentice, glued to his leg for his last few years and incentivise him to be a good teacher. Sadly this didn't happen where I worked.
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A few years ago a job came into our factory in four very posh and expensive flight cases. Spun titanium hemispheres about a metre in diameter. Satellite fuel tanks. We were to electron beam weld them together and fit and machine a small connecting flange to each resulting sphere. How someone managed to "spin" these into shape is beyond me. The stuff just wants to return to it's original form when deformed. Lots of heat, I suspect, and lots of power!
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On 9/17/2020 at 8:12 AM, Z320 said:
Hi Spyder,
...It this 6 speed gearbox for the lovely car in the background?
It sure is! Here is the gearbox remote in action...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLcTrpQCR7g&feature=youtu.be
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As stated above it looks like the sealer was applied too thickly. When I did my tank I put half a litre in and over half of it came back out.
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Nice work Marco. My "effort" on my AZ6 6-speeder was a little "agricultural" compared to yours but apart from a slight "notch" between 1st and 2nd it works perfectly. The shortened lever is 130mm forward of its original position.
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Does the MX5 box even have a speedo drive cable? I would have thought it would have an electronic sender. I have a solution for this problem but I warn you, it's absurdly complicated.
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The usual approach to this type of match up would be to retain the TR flywheel and clutch cover with an MX5 clutch plate. Will the Mazda bellhousing accommodate the TR flywheel or have you got a different plan? What are you going to do about a speedometer drive?
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Hi Marco. I didn't need an adaptor plate. I was lucky in that two of the boltholes lined up so I had a head start. I had to remove 8mm from the front face to allow the input shaft to engage the crank. New dowel holes and the remaining bolt holes were drilled using the thin engine back plate as a template. I also had to make an adaptor to re-position the starter motor.
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Looks like an MX5 box. I've been involved in similar gearbox/engine mismatch shenanigans myself. Not quite such a mismatch as yours though.
First time was mating a Toyota T50 to a 3SGE engine it was never intended for then latterly putting an IS200 AZ6 6 speed box on the same 3SGE engine.
The first was achieved by full measurement of both parts on a very, very expensive CMM machine and CNC machining to suit. One advantage of being a CNC machinist working nightshift.
Fitted like a glove. Modifying the AZ6 was a more "hands on" approach as I am now retired. Air-hacksaw, grinder etc. That fitted like a glove too!
The trickiest part was design and fab of a "reverse remote" to move the gear lever forward five inches.
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Who is the follicly-challenged guy looking under the rear of Mike Walker's car, Mick?
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I found these pics earlier today so I thought I'd post them here. It's Silverstone in the late 80's. Most of the usual suspects are there. How many can you name??
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If I had a TR3 I would fit period lights, regardless of cost. You might also consider uprating the charging system.
Sucking gums...what we all do.
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Another case in point Mick...
Drove past a Nissan Micra ( I think) on fire on the hard shoulder near M1 J27 last night. The overhead gantry warning system gave advance warning but didn't indicate which lanes might be safe to use. Thankfully traffic was light so everyone was able to pass in L3 and L4. A tyre exploded just as we were passing. Occupants were well away on the embankment.
Had it been a weekday morning on a Smart (?) motorway the occupants would be hurriedly exiting on a live lane and traffic might have been at a standstill leaving emergency vehicles with no easy access. Barmy!
G