DRD
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Posts posted by DRD
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On 5/1/2023 at 5:51 PM, Lebro said:
Spurred on by this topic, I decided to renew my rear axle oil, having not done so for 10 years or so.
What came out looked almost as clean as the new oil (GL4 80W90) & I was pleased to measure 850mL of it, which is the stated capacity.
So must be pretty much leak free !!
Gearbox oil next, did not have quite enough Penrite GB40, so ordered an extra litre to give me enough. I see Peter Cox sells it, but not cheap enough I'm afraid.
Ordered from here after a search:
https://www.classic-spares.com/
Bob
Did mine at the weekend and struggled to get even 500ml out and roughly the same back in when I refilled it.
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21 hours ago, Kevo_6 said:
These are the NON fan cooled version, cooled by a heat sink.
I've got these ones and the improvement over the halogen bulbs is significant. These are a similar size to a standard H4 bulb but without the extra heat sink other LED's sometimes need.
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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Makes sense as 32 degrees BTDC is said to be the max advance the TR engine tolerates before detonation/pre ignition when running on regular grades of fuel.
I run it on a min of 99RON as the compression ratio is a bit higher than standard.
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9 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
That is the profile of the distributor curve before it is fitted and timed in an engine. Just add or subtract the degrees depending on your static distributor setting. ie. At 10 degrees static BTDC the dynamic tickover would be at 12 ish degrees, at 2500 rpm it would be 30 degrees.( max advance)
Spot on, my actual setting is about 14 btdc at idle.
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This the advance curve of my distributor from the DD who modified it for my tuned engine.
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I found the new mechanical pumps run at 6 to 7psi so had to use a pressure regulator as well.
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I thought that Moss did brand new hubs that were OK.
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15 hours ago, Tim D. said:
I suspect if you have been using GL5 spec oil you may be in trouble. These gearboxes are designed for GL4. GL5 has a habit of attacking the yellow metal components of the box. May not be related to your OD issue but i would drain, wash out and refil with GL4 asap.
That's what I was thinking!
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1 hour ago, openroad said:
Harry, I have a few useable ones , old style.
Conrad.
I have a couple as well.
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16 hours ago, rcreweread said:
I think one of the main issues here is "words" and in particular the term "standard" - I think I'm right is saying that Standard ( pardon the pun!)Triumph changed ( uprated if you like) the rear springs 3 times from when they first appeared on the TR4A to the last type on the TR6. If the standard spring at the time for a 4A was "x", then the next time they changed the spring rate, that became the standard then, and when they did the last upgrade on the TR6, that became the standard after that.
Given that I wouldn't be surprised if most, if not all, the springs sold by the TR Suppliers come from the same manufacturer/supplier, I imagine that they have adopted the last TR6 uprated spring as the "standard" - this has a higher spring rate than that fitted to many earlier cars, and if those original springs haven't previously been changed, then your new "standard" springs won't be the same, hence they will have an impact on ride height and ride.
I'm afraid I don't have all the technical stull about spring rates, heights, number and thickness of coils to hand, but it seems to be an increasing area of concern here on the forum - wouldn't it be great if someone with the detailed knowledge could produce a definitive schedule of what is currently available and compare with original specs and then cross reference that with availability - if that throws up serious gaps in the available springs, then that could be an initiative for the SDF or alternatively an issue to be raised by the PQI ( parts quality initiative) team.
Unfortunately I don't haver the info and skills sets to volunteer myself, so don't suggest it!
Cheers Rich
PS Maybe something already exists, in which case we need to publicise it!
This is something I pulled together a while ago using info from various sources from the web when I was working out what options were available. I can't guarantee its completely correct though. Also I found that quite a few of these parts weren't always easily available.
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43 minutes ago, Steve-B said:
Am I correct in that a 096R is right for a TR-6 https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/powerline/096r/?
I'm wondering as I thought I had to have a battery with a CCA of 650A minimum?
I thought the correct size was either a 69 or 72 battery?
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3 hours ago, jerrytr5 said:
In my experience the easybleed is a disaster. Once you've had the master cylinder cap blow off under pressure, you'll never use it again. If you struggle with the traditional tube, get a vacuum pump kit.
Jerry
Totally agree - I used one once, never again made a total mess!
Try the vacuum pump method.
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18 hours ago, dblenk said:
thks guys
used the figures to re trace the formula and did a calc using 205 x 65 tyres with a 3.7 diff only a few MPH out so looking good dont want to get done speeding hahaha
David
Interesting, I thought that 205 70 tyres give the closest rolling circumference for the 3.7 diff.
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Thanks for posting this - it was interesting to see it all come apart.
P.S. I like your 4 legged helper!
Cheers Darren
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On 2/18/2023 at 12:05 PM, roughground said:
Hi Al;l
Thanks for the replies. The engine has SUs and has had the compression raised to 9.5:1. the ignition and fuel are correct but the compression is down. I did a check and found all cylinders to be 125psi. It doesn't burn oil and pulls well but not as good as my TR7, hence the questions. The engine has run about about 3000 miles of non aggressive driving since the rebuild.
It sounds as if the rebore is the least painful option, trouble is find someone in Lincoln to do it
Are all the pressures within 10% of each other?
Those compressions look like its a US spec head.
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What's the stock rocker ratio? I've seen 1.46:1 and 1.5:1 both quoted.
Cheers Darren
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On 1/29/2023 at 3:37 PM, Mike Heelis said:
Hi Andy, Now fitted up my fuel cooler in response to your lead. I have it under the right wing with Sytec pump under the left wing. Waiting for the spring and summer 23 to proof test it.
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Good job Mike - looks like you've been having fun!
Darren
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It does look like a GT6 engine to me with Strombergs fitted. Also no heater valve on the head.
Darren
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3 hours ago, John Morrison said:
Hi All,
so as this project comes near to completion, we are thinking about a new hood purchase and fitting.
I've read through a number of posts, but still asking,
a) recommendations for a supplier, and
b) any tips to aid fitting, especially bothered about temperatures in teh garage Jan/Feb and if we fit soon, will it ever look correct in the summer?
John.
I got my hood from Don Hoods - I think they have a good reputation and you avoid the middle man.
Yes - ideally you need a warm environment so its stretches more easily.
Darren
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13 hours ago, astontr6 said:
Hi Richard!
When you get your EFI going I would be interested in knowing what system you used and where the bits came from. There does not seem to be a kit of parts for EFI for a TR6 for sale by any of the known people like Emerald. A friend of mine has the Emerald system but it took him 18 months to iron out all the gremlins, I am looking for a full fit and forget system but there does not seem to be one?
Bruce.
Bruce - these people claim to do this.
Not tried it myself or found anyone else who has either.
Cheers Darren
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I used a spray on contact adhesive.
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I've got my CTEK charging through the cigarette lighter socket which I put in to replace the rheostat in the dash.
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12 hours ago, Mike C said:
Yep, they should be fitted with the filter hanging down to retain its oil charge when the engine stops. Mine's at about 7 O'clock -needed to clear the clutch cylinder.
It doesn't matter as most filters like the K&N one have anti-drain back valves to prevent this.
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37 minutes ago, Kevo_6 said:
Hi Darren, the Mintex MGB525(C) are the classic range (standard) which I fitted earlier this year for our 1600 mile tour of France in the extreme hit of this summer and I was very happy with them. I would assume the MGB633 are the 1144s possibly. Drop them an email on sales@mintexclassic.com they were very good to communicate with.
Thanks Kev - I think your right, the MGB633 ones are the M1144 pads.
gearbox/engine oil.
in General TR Technical
Posted
Stuart - I thought the capacity of the diff was about 1L?
I'm sure I've got more out in the past.
Cheers Darren