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Posts posted by DRD
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There may be unseen structural damage to the chassis or bodyshell. Once you have that then it's probably terminal.
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18 minutes ago, stuart said:
Apparently at the meeting at Moss when this was announced the bit about Rimmers being included in the deal came at the end of the takeover announcement after all the usual stuff about keeping the company profile high etc all the usual takeover waffle and there was an audible intake of breath in the room.
Stuart.
Is it a takeover? I got the impression they've invested in the businesses. Probably got controlling interests but will run them as separate businesses.
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The hole is there to allow fresh air into the rocker cover and then it gets sucked out the pipe on the side into the intake manifold. If an oil mist is being emitted from the filler cap then there must be a blockage in the ventilation system, possibly the flame trap is clogged up with gunk.
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18 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:
That's what I couldn't remember Stuart- Proptech heavy duty shafts- there the ones I fitted and the company were very helpful too.
The splines have a special coating!
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Ernest, my guess is its worn driveshafts. If your hubs seem OK then you could replace the driveshafts - a company called Proptech do them for a reasonable price. Otherwise if you go the CV route then you're looking at approx £1k for this.
Cheers Darren
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7 hours ago, JohnC said:
May seem like a stupid question, but please bear with me. How do modern light truck/van tyres compare with the tyres our cars were fitted with in the '70s? Here in Oz the only locally-available 165/80R15 tyres are made for vans, and all the advertising info indicates that longevity is the primary consideration. Now I realise that the horrifically expensive 165s I can get from overseas will be vastly superior to van tyres, but how do van modern tyres compare to 1970's tyre technology?
I expect I'll go for the195/65 option in the end. I had hoped to try a set of Radar 185/70 but our importer won't bring them in.
Does anyone have any experience they can share?
Thanks,
JohnYou could use them but the trouble with van tyres is that they are designed for much higher loads than a tyre for a car, plus the speed rating is probably lower as well. I guess it would probably be like trying to run a marathon wearing wellies.
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21 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:
When I adjusted mine, the colortune wanted a certain setting to get the flame blue, but listening by ear, it didn't sound as good, when I adjusted by sound the colortune was starting to go more orange, but it ran better.
So I'm guessing he wasn't far out to begin with, but it made some difference to how the car felt. My problem was being over rich and sooting up the plugs and exhaust. I don't get any noticeable bogging. Maybe have a play with it, mark where you start from and try adjusting things, assuming you've done the other checks first I suggested, plus I forgot to mention I checked the fuel pressure at the MU too.
Gareth
Using a Colourtune will result in a mixture that is too weak - it needs to be between 12-13:1.
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But does it really matter??
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I had a similar problem a couple of years ago when I fitted new driveshafts. Even using the correct tool I ruined one UJ and ended up taking them to a workshop to get done.
I didn't measure it but it was certainly an interference fit.
Darren
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3 hours ago, BaulyCars said:
Hi Darren
Good idea, and a few people have asked!
I've now added a currency selector on the right hand side of the website, should be able to display prices in GBP.
Kind Regards
Toby
Thanks Toby - that's great!
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28 minutes ago, mleadbeater said:
The seller of my car said, when asked if there were a set of door keys, replied why bother locking them? a quick slash of the hood and a thief has access via the inside door handles.
I suppose different thieves have varying motivations, some just opportunists, and others who want to take your car away, I don’t know what the answer is, just have a good agreed valuation insurance.
Anyone any good suggestions for anti theft devices?, any mobile app’s for this?
Sorry to highjack this topic, but it seems to be well covered at this stage.
Mike
A steering lock and a tracker, possibly an alarm as well?
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On 2/20/2024 at 4:18 AM, BaulyCars said:
Hi everyone,
I wasn't sure where to post this (its really an 'ad'), but wasn't sure how else to reach you all and may be of interest to some, hope its OK to post it here .
We're running free shipping (with the same DHL express service, worldwide) on any of our products for a short while.
Do let me know if interested in anything, and feel free to visit the shop https://baulycars.com/shop/
Kind Regards
Toby
Hi Toby,
I noticed that all your prices are in $, can you do them in £?
Cheers Darren
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On 2/14/2024 at 3:33 PM, PodOne said:
Hi Waldi
Which ones do?
Andy
Most of them do these days, certainly the K&N, Mann, Wix and Mahle ones do.
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16 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:
Unfortunately I'm useless at soldering and the part where the wires were factory soldered looks quite delicate Waldi- its disappointing to hear that the replacements fail early- have you actually had this experience or is it just something you heard??
I got one from eBay a few years ago and its been fine so far. I'm sure they all come from the same manufacturer.
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3 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:
At the risk of inviting trouble…..I have been using Fernox Alphi ll for the last couple of years and at the moment everything seems good. The coolant (50/50) is still crystal clear, the engine temperature when running stays where it should even in very hot weather and to date I haven’t needed to top the system up. Long May it continue.
Rgds Ian
Hi Ian - how long does it last?
Cheers Darren
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15 hours ago, Lebro said:
It certainly works with the LED bulbs I purchased, these I think:
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/glb987-e10mes-5-smd-led-bulbs-dashboard-gauge-lighting
potentiometer from ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391584895037
75R 2 W resistor also: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161871446431?var=460853252103
Bob
Hi Bob - do you have any suggestions for a suitable housing to put it in?
Cheers Darren
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14 hours ago, Mike C said:
+1
Then you get rattles!
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On 1/15/2024 at 3:28 PM, harrytr5 said:
I have always used the trick and no problem when taking apart later on.
Regards Harry
Me neither, I've used the thicker wire coat hanger technique - works a treat!
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3 hours ago, RobH said:
069 batteries are a standard size and are available from lots of suppliers. e.g.:
I've never been able to work out the difference between a 69 and 72 battery - they seem to be the same.
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3 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Bruce,
it says here that the CP series did have 150BHP @5500rpm
So were they uprated by SAH?
https://www.tr-register.co.uk/tr-buyers-guides/triumph-tr6
Roger
Roger - I think it was more like 140HP using the DIN rating.
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1 hour ago, Malbaby said:
Is a TR5 an upgrade from a TR6?
Only in the market value!
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21 hours ago, Steve-B said:
Go to https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/
They stock all the LEDs for the brake lights, reverse lights and indicators(remember digital relay with them!).
Jobs a good one to do all at once !!
+1
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Shaun - I just got some flexible clear 6mm plastic hose from a hardware shop and cut it to suit. For the later cars (CR & CF) the cap pressure should be 13psi. The main stopper in the cap lifts if necessary and vents the coolant via the plastic pipe into the overflow bottle. Then when the engine cools down it will draw some coolant back into the radiator.
NB: The overflow bottle is at ambient pressure and is not an expansion tank, although I and many others have replaced it with an expansion tank.
Darren
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Paul - there are hundreds of filters that would fit but I use either a Mann 713/9 or a K&N HP2009.
Cheers Darren
Engine builder in SE
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Classic and modern engine services in Bracknell are our local one.