The_Doc
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Posts posted by The_Doc
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I have some original bumpers and overriders for a TR4A that have been re-chromed. They look amazing and are ready to go on your car.
Original bumpers are rare, and these are like new. I prefer chrome to stainless steel, it has a nicer colour to it.
I’m open to sensible offers, but I’m not going to give these away at a silly price.
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Thank you, Mick!
On the top bearing on the right hand side there is a little bit of the copper showing through so it might warrant a change as a precaution but thanks for confirming that it isn’t badly worn.
I haven’t had the front pulley off at any point, but I will give it a check. The previous owner of the car runs very reputable TR restoration business so I have been working on the assumption that everything on this car has been done properly and to be honest, I have found no evidence to the contrary.
Can you think of any other parts of the internal engine that could be easily checked? I haven’t noticed a huge drop on oil pressure and I sent the oil from the sump away for an analysis; it came back with slightly high, but not alarming, levels of iron (50 ppm) so this could point to crankshaft or even camshaft wear.
TIA,
Adam
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Hi All,
I am trying to track down a knocking noise that is mostly evident when the rev are low and reducing (on over run(?)). Using my stethoscope, it sounds like the knocking is coming from the back of the engine block closer to the crankshaft then the cylinder head.
I checked all the obvious stuff and now am onto the big end bearings. I have pulled the piston 4 big end bearing just to have a look and it doesn’t appear that bad. There also doesn’t appear to be any issues with the crankshaft, so I highly doubt this is what’s causing the knocking sound.
my question is, from the picture, would you advice while I’m here to go ahead and change all the big end bearings or just put this one back in and revisit in 10,000 miles?
Thank you,Adam
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Hi All,
i have a few steering wheels for a TR4/4A (and one for a vitesse, I think (?)) in varying degrees of condition. Is there actually a market or need for these, or should I think about getting rid of them when I next have a clear out?
TIA,
Adam
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2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Did this problem start just after you removed the inlet manifold in the past, and then replaced it. ? Think back, sometimes you don't connect the two occurrences. It sounds like an airleak into the manifold of cylinders 1 and 2, normally this is caused by the inlet manifold not seating correctly when replaced. Run the engine and spray brake cleaner or other flammable mix around the inlet manifold at the front and mask the carburettor from ingesting any at the front. The leak if there will show up as an increase in revs temporarily as the inflammable mix is burned increasing the richness there.
Mick Richards
The inlet manifold hasn’t been disturbed, but I’ll double check using some kind of flammable spray at the points where the Janet manifold mates with the cylinder head when I get a chance.
my gut feeling was point to ignition side, but the only thing I can think of left is a worn distributor that isn’t firing on 2 properly.
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6 hours ago, Waldi said:
Do you loose cooling water?
If so, it is worth checking the head of the pistons with an endoscope for comparison.
Waldi
I don’t seem to be losing coolant, I think the head gasket doing it’s job.
3 hours ago, RogerH said:Have you tried replacement plug leads and plug cap?
Roger
Yep, tried that. It didn’t make a difference to the problem.
My current thought is that it could be that cylinders 1&2 are actually running lean and I might have a small leak through the valve stem to number 1 of oil. I’m just trying to think about the way to diagnose this.
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Hi All,
A problem I’ve been trying to diagnose for a while. Weirdly, plug number two is showing all the signs of overheating - the electrodes appear white, with no brown or black colouration. I have checked the ignition - swapped over the coil, new plugs, I have run it on points and with Luminition optotronic ignition and the advance seems to be a few degrees BTDC. I have done a compression test and all cylinders are showing 150 psi after a few turns of the engine. And the valve clearances look good at 10 thou. I doubt it’s a fuelling issue as plug number one is running rich, and this points to ignition, however I’m struggling to think what’s left to check. However, it could be that the problem is actually with cylinder 1, and the fouling of the plug is coming from something other then the two much fuel, and running lean on plug 2 would cause overheating.
Is it now worth taking the cylinder head off and checking the state of the valves and to see if the waterways around cylinder two are clogged? At the next opportunity, I might check to make sure the valve lift is consistent.
Weirdly, I have noticed a potential new knocking noise coming from the engine, but this might be me tuning into random noises, as the sound softens once the engine is warm. I worry, I am just looking for issues now.
Thanks in advance,
Adam
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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Thank you! I’ve just put in an order and they said it might be with me tomorrow.
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34 minutes ago, RogerH said:
The bad bearing will not affect the flow until the pump dies/leaks etc..
How far will it last - who knows.
Use the replacement in the boot
. with its gasket.
If you have no replacement then simply run what you have and see where you get.
Good luck.
Roger
Thanks, Roger. Space was so limited that I packed a spare fuel pump instead!
Worst case, we’ll try to make it home and keep an eye on the temperature gauge.
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11 minutes ago, james christie said:
Where are you in France?
I’ve got a spare one here - 100km west of Nantes
james
Hi James,
We’re in Orléans, I take it you’re on the coast? But not it wouldn’t be a quick round trip to Nantes from here.
Thanks,
Adam
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Hi All,
We’re currently in France and due to drive back home tomorrow. Have noticed a whining noise coming from the engine. After taking the fan belt off, when I rotate the water pump by hand it feels notchy. However, there doesn’t appear to be any play. I worry that the bearings have gone, do people agree?
If so, how far do you think I could get on a knackered pump? The temperature gauge seems to read normal so I’m not sure whether the bad bearings are drastically effecting the flow at the moment.
Thanks in advance,
Adam
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1 minute ago, DOG_MORGAN said:
On my tr6 got 2 big speakers in the bulkhead on magnet nice and solid sounds good
Thanks, do you have a picture?
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Hi All,
Whilst I always enjoy the exhaust note and the rumble of the engine in our “4”, I am beginning to miss the jams. I was thinking of rigging up something to be able to install a Bluetooth speaker on the top of the gear box tunnel. Have any of you installed a speaker in your TR and where have you found the best place to put it? Ideally, I would have thought you’d want it in the middle of the dash where the gauges are or perhaps either side of the wind screen pointing in. But I don’t want to cover up my view or use of the gauges/switches on the dash and putting them on top of the dash also doesn’t seem like a good idea. There is obviously, the footwells, but in my experience, you don’t get the best sound from that position.
Thanks in advance!
Adam
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Hello All,
Thank you for the valuable advice, it's given me a lot to think about. And thank you Roger for the kind offer of your garage! It is much appriaciated.
I've got to admit, I'm leaning very heavily towards just selling up and taking the hit, just so I can move on. I think one of the main sticking points is getting the body finished. Would any of you be able to recommend some one who could, at a reasonable price, fix up and paint the body?
thanks,
Adam
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Hello!
To cut a long story short, I have been restoring my TR4A (USA import to be converted to RHD) with my step-father for the past 5 years up in his workshop in Derby and during the COVID-19 pandemic, my mum and step-dad seperated. Needless to say that I am now being forced to get all my "stuff" out. My TR4A is in a compeltly dismantled state and the body has been stripped but now needs a lot of repair (floors, sills, boot, etc....).
So far, the engine, gearbox, rear axle have been refurbished but there is still a lot to do.
Having to move everything out has been a real kick in the teeth, but I've got no where to store the car, and am reluctant to just store what bits I can in my garage (it's full as we've recently moved house) leaving the chasis and body outside in the UK climate.
Can people offer some advice as to how to get a car moved? Are there any cheap haulage companies that could do this for me as I don't have the means to move this myself (and will get no help from my step-father)?
I'm contemplating just selling up and starting a fresh. Taking on the rest of the restoration seems like a big task and I've got no experience welding or doing any body work, nevermind the long reasembly that would ensue. I guess the only thing to bear in mind is that I wouldn't get my money back and would take a substanial loss.
I guess any pearls of wisdom or advice would be greatly appriciated at this time.
Thanks,
Adam
(located in South Oxfordshire)
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OK, is it just me, but when trying to fit the BMH panels brought from Moss and Rimmer, I've noticed nothing fits without quite extensive fitment and modification. This has included heating bits up and reshaping using a hammer. Is it just me, or do other people seem to find the same thing? Something must be wrong at their factory as I don't think their products quite reflect the so-called quality they seem to exude in their adverts.
What are other peoples experiences?
Thanks
Adam
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Hi All
A very quick question; does anyone know if the metal dash is different between the TR4 and the TR4A (aside from the fact the TR4A has the additonal veneered bit)? I want to put a TR4 metal dash on a TR4A and need to make sure the instruments and switches will still all fit.
As usual, thank you all in advance!!!
Adam
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Hello (again) All
I have a choice between putting in a J-Type or A-Type overdrive in my restoration project. I was just wondering what peoples thoughts on are this are. I know the A-Type is the correct OD, but is the J-Type a better unit to have? I will keep both units with the car so the next owner (if I ever do sell it!) can change it if they so wish.
I have heard that the J-type is the better one to have in your car and use; the A-type can be slower to engage/disengage as well as being more tempremental. Of course, the J-type will give a higher drop in RPM, but I'm guessing going from 22% to 28% doesn't make too big a difference.
Any help would be greatly appriciated as I feel I'm in the middle quite a dilemmia.
Thanks in advance!
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Hi All
I was wondering what people thoughts were on lightening the flywheel of my 4A. Currently the flywheel, including ring gear, is approx. 23 lbs. I'm not looking to go down the competition route so don't need to get it down to a couple of lbs. However, it would be nice to try and increase the responsivness of the car, but not sacrafice the tick over at idle. Is there an ideal amount to shave off or is it better to leave it stock?
Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks
Adam
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Thanks all for your thoughts and advice. I'm now the proud owner of a surrey top - Iif only I could just get the car finished....
Adam
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Hi All
With my ongoing TR4A rebuild, I've been offered an 'original' surry top and the rear frame and roof are aluminium. What are the things I should look out for?
Yes it may cost me an arm and a leg, but what are peoples veiws on this; is a Surry top a definete must for a TR4/4A or does it not make a huge difference? Is it better to go without and simply be fully exposed to the wind? I'd appricate peoples thoughts on the different driving experiences; with an without.
Thanks
Adam
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Thanks for all the advice. The weakest point to me seems to be right in the middle, so it seems sensible to try attach something to the outriggers and perhaps brace these to the back of the chassis somehow. Since I don't have IRS, then there is more space around my chassis to perhaps attempt soemthing like this.
Adam
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Hello All,
In my rebuild of my own TR4A (one with a solid rear axle), I have been doing some reading and it seems that there is some critism over the strength of the chassis. The TR4 appears to have a slightly better chassis in that it is more rigid, which is no real suprise as the TR4A chassis does come in at the back by the breast plates and where the prop shaft passes through it.
I was wondering, has anyone else found any issues with the TR4A's chassis and if so is there a good way to provide more rigidity to calm the twisting/flexing of the chassis.
I just thought that whilst everything is off this is a good time to do any work rather then thinking of it once the car is assembled.
Thanks
Adam
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Hi Roger
Yes I am now convinced it's a reproduction pump. I've had the car for about two years but it was (and still is) a wreck, so I've got no idea as to what was done, I just assumed it had been parked up since the 70's, mind you there are tell-tale signs to show someone's pissed about with things.
Thanks
Adam
TR4/4A steering wheels
in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
Posted
Hi All,
I’ve accrued some steering wheels for a TR4/4A in varying conditions. Actually, the one on the right is a deeper dish and I think this might be for a Vittese or similar.
All are good to go again, they just need refinishing.
Please make some sensible offers, I’d like to see them go to good homes.
Take care,
Adam