NDRAC04
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Posts posted by NDRAC04
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I have just found 2 of these for sale if anyone is interested (I bought 3 from Rock Auto when I changed my valve last year but mislaid the 2 I had intended to pass on to other members)
£35 including postage. Drop me a PM if you are interested.
Ray
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It's Ray, by the way.
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Nope, definitely not hinges. You can feel it's jammed in the catch, for some reason. Also, I have taken the catch off the door pillar, and it closes fine without it.
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My passenger door is very hard to open. The car is a US import converted to RHD, so it was the drivers door in it's past life. The handle/lock mechanism seems to release the cog OK, but the door needs a firm shoulder shove to open.
I've eliminated the anti bust catch as the culprit (by removing it), and it seems to be just the spring loaded slidy thing jamming on the sticky-out bit (excuse the technical terms here).
I've played around with adjusting both the entire door and the catch, but I cant improve it. Do I just get a replacement catch?
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Worth checking the switch wiring. Alan can confirm it is possible to reverse a couple of connections, and although the wipers work correctly, the motor draws current even when switched off.
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I find starting from cold takes ages to pump the fuel through,so was planning on fitting an electric pump. Any advice on the best one to chose, and also what collision cut off switch to fit?
Ray
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Just in the process of fitting the plastic moldings and heater pipes for the windscreen vents after the LHD to RHD conversion. I now find I can't fit the new glove box as it fouls the vent fitting. I was surprised to find both moldings are the same on my car,with the outlets both pointing to the near side of the car - looking at some exploded views it seems I need the pipes to point to the centre of the car. I suppose on the LHD, this didn't present an issue as the passenger side was correct, but now it's RHD, it's incorrect.
Anyone else come, across this? Also, it's a long shot I know, but does anyone have a correct molding for the passenger side they can sell me?
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I have just completed this process for my TR4a, imported from the USA last November. As has been said above, you don't need a certificate of conformity. I just ignored most of the questions on the form and only filled in the ones I could. You will need a MOT cert., a heritage cert and a letter from the club certifying the original build date, plus copies of passport and a utility bill for the address where you live. My car was placed on the NOVA register when it landed at Southampton, but they missed off the 'L'from the end of the chassis, which caused the application to be rejected first time around, but once I had sent the NOVA letter confirming duty had been paid, the V5 arrived last week.
Hope your application goes as smoothly as mine.
Ray
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Hi Mike,I am just about to apply for my first registration on my US imported TR4a, so I guess I will need this letter as well. Can you advise me on the process here? I have the Heritage cert.
Ray
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Just thought I'd add a note to this thread. Just had my imported TR4A MOT'ed. No issues at all with the software, we simply created a new vehicle entry on the system. There were a couple of ambiguous boxes on the computer form - country of registration (we put 'unknown') and why there was no registration number entered (we put 'missing'). The MOT guy (who's a good friend of mine) said this info wasn't really important, as it will all be overwritten once the DVLA receive the V55/5 application register a vehicle.Car passed, by the way!
Wish me luck - just ordered the V55 and will let you know how smoothly it goes!
Ray
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Hi Paul, yes I heated both pedals up to red heat and bent them. The brake needed to be virtually straight, then I adjusted the clutch pedal bend to match the original gap - 2.25" from memory.
As Stuart says, I found there wasn't enough room to rest your foot off the clutch without bending.
Ray
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Paul - interesting about having to reset the angle of the column mount. I haven't had to do this, it all lined up perfectly for me. You have got the new bracket on the inside of the bulkhead in the right place I suppose? I found there is quite a change in angle (taken up by the rubber UJ's in the steering column). The angle as it comes through the bulkhead inside the car is a lbit shallower than in the engine bay.
I have had to enlarge a couple of the top holes where the screws that attach the metal dash to the dash top, but that was probably due to slight misalignment of the 5 pieces. Anyway, it's a good solution, and as it's hidden from view by the wooden dash, the finish on welded joints aren't too critical.
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Working from memory = of course it's 4 plus the ashtray - doh!
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Just finalising my conversion to RHD and I am about to make a new dashboard that a good mate of mine will veneer for me.
I've noticed that the 3 smaller gauges are mounted with their rims proud of the surface, but the speedo and tacho are recessed. Just wondering if this is normal, and if there is a particular reason for this? I would have thought they would look better if they were all the same - i.e. all proud.
Ray
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Roger, I have to apologise - when I first read your reply I thought, no, you can't do that as the dash is curved over at the back to provide reinforcement, so can't be turned over. It's only this morning I realised - draw round it and turn the template over - Doh!
Wish me luck - I start pulling the dash apart this morning...I hope my welding is up to it, but at least it will be covered up with a nice new wooden dash.
Ray
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That's the process I am going to follow, Graeme. I was hoping for a master template so I could get all the sections lined up.
Ray
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I'm converting to RHD, so need to get hold of this panel one way or the other.
Ringing around various suppliers confirms my suspicion that they are either unobtainable or stupid prices.
One option is to cut the LHD one up and weld the bits back together in RHD form.
To do this,it would be very useful to have a template. Just wondering if anyone has a car semi dismantled and could draw around the panel for me? If in the SE, I could drop in at weekend and Do it.
Ray
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Just wondering if anyone has any of these parts they would like to sell before I order new ones:131105 WIPER ARM RH306829 STEERING RACK RHD (any condition as I can exchange for a new one)903997 DASH PANEL STEEL RHD815747 GLOVE BOX808730 CRASH PAD RH TR4A (slim chance I know!)808732 CRASH PAD LH TR4A (slim chance I know!)GSD111 CABLE 47" TACHOGSD169 CABLE SPEEDO209411 PEDAL THROTTLE RHD TR4-4ARay
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I've done a bit more research today. One thing that is slightly strange is that the production number on the plate is CTC54479, but I was expecting an 'L' at the end to indicate LHD. I suppose the production number has come from a UK car, but quite how it got to Florida is a mystery. Also,it has overdrive but doesn't have the 'O' suffix, but I guess this could have been added when it was rebuilt.
Having fitted the new headlamps, I am struggling with refitting the chrome rims. I note this seems to be a common problem, as the design was changed many times. Looks like I have new bowls (or bucket's?), but the original rims which don't seems to fit well at all. If you tighten the securing screw/bolt (one has a self tapper!)it wants to flip out at the top.
Perhaps the best way is to junk the lot and get new matching bowls and rims?
Ray
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Not sure if this will work, but I'll give it a try.
Link to sellers pictures https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z985j00dliob7e1/AAC6Ag6pMcLtD1JlZiL46iyKa?dl=0
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Interesting. The seller in Florida sent the title document to the shippers office. This was to enable the car to be released for export by the US customs. I also didn't get the title document with the car, so should I be chasing the shippers to get this to me?
I have applied for a heritage cert, so can I get the car registered with just this and the MOT?
Collected the car on Friday and I'm still grinning... It has been restored to an extremely high standard, and so far, I'm delighted with the purchase. No sign of any rust whatsoever. We had to push the car onto the trailer, as the battery was flat, and I found later that all the fuel had been drained. A quick charge and a gallon if juice when we got home had her running like a sewing machine.
I've converted all the lights, found the dip switch wires swapped around so the main beam could never have worked. Also the heater controls need stripping and freeing off - I guess he never drove the car at night or needed the heater in Florida!
Another member here is sorting me out a pair of rear overriders with lights, as none is fitted to the car at present - perhaps they don't need number plate illumination in the US.
I'll try and activate my Dropbox account and post up the original sellers pictures later today.
Ray
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Thanks Pete - I've ordered these.
Collecting the car on Friday.
Ray
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Hi all, first post here,although I have been lurking for a few months.
Just awaiting collection of my TR4a from Southampton docks as soon as I get custom's clearance. I have been looking for a 4a for a year or so, and spotted what seems to be a well restored car in Florida on US eBay. After much soul searching, I took the plunge and have done what everyone tells you not to do - buy a car unseen.... I did take as much care as possible though, many emails/phone calls to the seller, and doing a fair amount of background checks before finally parting with the money.
I am using 'Ship my car', who so far, have been very good, arranging the collection from the sellers house and sorting all the paperwork before shipping. It was shipped in a shared container with 3 other cars, and is currently unloaded in a warehouse at the port.
I should be picking the car up soon, hopefully Friday, and I'll report back on how it's going.
One quick question - am I right in thinking I just need headlamps, rear lenses and amber front flasher bulbs to pass the MOT (which will be done on the chassis number).
Over the next few weeks, I plan to convert to RHD, and change the front grill back to standard (which the seller has included). I do need a pair of rear overriders if anyone has them for sale, as they are currently missing.
Cross fingers it's as good as the pictures seem to show!
Ray
Problem fitting 4 seasons heater valve
in TR6 Forum
Posted
My 2 valves are now sold - thanks Dave.
Ray