TR4ffic
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Posts posted by TR4ffic
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7 hours ago, Black Forest TR3A said:
Hi,
as it happens I have my H6s on the desk for overhaul and just fitted the grose jets
Where can I get the standard Delrin tipped needles? Burlen? What part number do I need?
Hi Christian
For the Viton tipped needles & Seats from Burlen, you want part No: VZX 1101
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56 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Is the chamber to stud assembly as in the pic? If you miss out the upper steel washer (122) the ports will probably not align
Yes, I've got the stud (123) ...and the washer (122) is in place.
I plan to go on a longer run over the next day or so and then try to recreate the problem by tightening the nut (120) - just out of interest. Although not loose at the moment, my concern is the nuts may become loose over time as they are not what I call tight! I found that they weren't tight when all this started as per my initial post.
I have thought about using a star washer as well - between 121 and the nut 120.
Nick
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She lives.!!
The new Needles & Seats arrived today ...v good, speedy turn around ...courtesy of Burlen.
Swapped the Grose Jets out for those and checked/set the float levers, primed the carbs manually and checked the fuel in the float chamber - All OK. Checked the fuel in the jet tube again - after saying on Monday that I could see the fuel I wasn't so sure today ...but I buttoned everything up and tried to start
Same result as previously - ran for 5-10secs
Checked everything again: Fuel in the float chamber. Not so sure about the jet tube.
Was I getting enough fuel? After asking way back about how tight to do up the nut at the bottom of the Float Chamber, and reporting that 'I did everything up pretty tight...' I loosened off the nuts a bit... Hey presto.!! Started on the second go and kept going!!! Could the rubber seals have deformed enough to restrict the fuel supply holes in the float chamber/stud?
Anyway, we appear to be sorted. I've been for a spin around the block - all appears to be OK. Dead chuffed
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Hi All,
I have stripped and checking the Float Chambers/seals that I assembled last week. Also, having opened the choke, I can see fuel in the Jet tube - thanks for the tip Bob... All seems OK.
I have now ordered a standard set of Needles & Seats to replace the Grose Jets - I await their arrival... I'll keep you posted.
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2 hours ago, RobH said:
The float chamber might be full but if fuel isn't getting through to the jet properly, it can't run. After all, that is the thing you have been working on and sudden onset of a new fault afterwards might be a pointer to all not being well.........?
As mentioned previously, the bottom of the jet/choke mechanism under both carbs is getting wet with fuel. Signs that my recent work on the Float Chambers hasn't hindered fuel flow..? Also, I can see signs of fuel in the carb body and on the Throttle Disc, and I also noticed fuel dripping from the vacuum advance pipe connection under the front carb today - after much cranking over attempting to start. Is this all signs of too much fuel.!?
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26 minutes ago, Lebro said:
It's much easier to see the fuel level in the carb body if you pull the choke right out to max, there is then a much larger hole to peer down.
Bob
...that sounds like a plan!
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On 4/21/2024 at 5:20 PM, RobH said:
Have you removed the carb piston chamber and looked at the fuel level in the jet Nick? That's the important thing. It should be a short way down from the top (not critical - 1/8 to 1/4 inch is fine).
Hi Rob/All
Update: Started the engine this afternoon with the now familiar 5-10 seconds of runtime before it faded away and stopped! I immediately checked the fuel level in the Float Chambers and both still had fuel in them - to approx the same level as before starting ...so I'm assuming the fuel pump is OK, and the Grose Jets.
I removed the Chamber and Piston of both carbs; the fuel level in the jet you describe above - Is that in the small hole the Needle sits in? I couldn't see into the hole to gauge the fuel level - far too small or my aging eyesight! It certainly wasn't full.!!
Regards the Grose Jets: It's a pity these 'superior replacements' (Moss's description!) don't appear to live up to expectations... Unfortunately I don't have the original Needles & Seats to swap back to - I dropped and lost a needle last year and couldn't find it which prompted the swap! New Needles & Seats are on back order with Moss at the moment but could look elsewhere.
Is there anything else I can do/check prior to swapping back to the original Needles & Seats to eliminate the Grose Jets (just in case they are causing the issue)?
Nick
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Hi Rob
Whilst I had the tops off the float chambers I did check the setting of the levers (129) as per the manual - I had to raise (bend) both levers (one more than the other) but this will have increased the amount of fuel in the chambers before the valve is closed by the rising float. I have got the Grose Jets as opposed to the standard Needles & Seats - I changed these last year (Has it run properly since - I can't remember!?). I haven't checked the float chambers after the short run so that is worth looking at - I'll do this tomorrow...
There is definitely fuel getting to the jets as the jet assemblies at the bottom of the carbs are wet with fuel (I thinking this isn't another leak but due to the amount of unused fuel getting into the carbs?)
Nick
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Afternoon All
So... I've made good progress and resolved the problem posted above. In dismantling everything and removing the stud (123) I discovered that a PO had put the studs in without the fibre washers (124) and with something that could have been PTFE tape on the thread! Giving everything a good clean, fitting new fibre washers and seals (118) has resolved the leak. I couldn't find any info on how tight to do up the nut (120) - I didn't want to over tighten and deform the rubber washers - but in the end I did everything up pretty tight! Sorted..!
I now have a different problem in starting and keeping the engine running... In the past, it has been a pretty good starter on the 2nd/3rd go. I've primed the float chambers manually via the fuel pump, checked I have fuel in the chambers. Choke set. The engine turns over with no sign of life at all - no attempt to catch, and various throttle settings. Nothing... Then, close the choke and throttle it will spring instantly into life - open the throttle to catch it and the engine will run smoothly and sweetly with good revs ...for about 5-10 seconds.!! Try to start again straight away - Nothing... Try with choke and throttle - Nothing... Close choke and throttle - starts straight away and dies after 5-10 seconds... This has been repeated 3 or 4 times...
I'm assuming that the 'trying to start' gets plenty of fuel into the carbs. It starts but then it's a problem of ongoing fuel delivery the is the problem ...it's getting starved of fuel? But I don't know what/how to check?
The engine last ran last year with no issues. Last week when I came to start it, I had the same symptoms as above once but didn't progress due to the fuel leak now rectified.
Any ideas please?
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Hi All,
I'm after a bit of advice if I may... I'm having to replace the seals on the bottom of the carbs, where the float chamber attaches. I have the arrangement on the right in the image - Stud (123) and the nut (120). New seals received from Moss...
Questions is: How tight should the nut be done up?
After a long time standing idle (The TR, not me!), on trying to start it over the weekend, discovered fuel leaks from both carbs and the nuts weren't tight ...tightening them didn't stop the leaks and could almost have made them worse!
Many thanks in advance
Nick
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On 9/25/2023 at 9:07 AM, gloide69 said:
It's missing its bonnet badges and the boot seal looks like it is hanging out too.
Paul
For the price, I'd ask the seller to put the bonnet lettering and badge on at their cost ...it's incomplete without and I wouldn't fancy drilling through that lovely paint and get the holes in the right place.!! Let them take the risk.
Any deal done yet?
Nick
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On 5/12/2023 at 7:46 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:
Suddenly gone up to £85.99, you must have caused a run on them Bob!
Ralph
...and now up to £97.99 - A clear case of supply & demand.!?
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On 5/28/2022 at 10:10 AM, ianc said:
When going down the gears, good idea to heel-and-toe in order to speed up the input shaft...
...or double de-clutch
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I fitted the Revington steering arms. I was looking to improve the steering, and considering a R+P upgrade at the time.
I'm not aware that the Revington kit is meant to reduce bump steer ...what it is meant to sort out is the poor steering geometry and the Ackerman Angle https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry ...the fact that when turning a corner, the inner wheel has to scribe a tighter circle than the outer wheel. Something the early TR's don't do in standard set up.!!
I found the Revington kit improved the turn in to a corner and made the steering more precise, and I also found that the straight ahead/mid point wander is greatly reduced.
Like Lebro, I dispensed with the stone shields
In the end I didn't bother going any further by fitting a R+P ...these do increase bump steer
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On 5/29/2022 at 3:45 PM, Vic787 said:
I can hardly turn steering stationary.
Hi Vic
What is the steering like when on the move? ...on the open road? ...at walking speeds in a car park when manoeuvring?
Nick
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Hi Jeremy
I had a similar problem when fitting Carl's brackets/MX5 seats in to my 3a... I went down the route of positioning the bracket/seat where it needed to go, marked out bracket position on to the floorpan and drilled new holes in the brackets.
I also took the seatbelt bracket off the MX seat frame to give me a bit more room against the transmission/propshaft tunnel.
Regards
Nick
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38 minutes ago, RobH said:
Which is why you should always remove the battery earth connection first, and replace it last.
+1 ...very wise ...very important
Despite this... Many years ago, having done some work on my 4a where I'd disconnected the battery (terminals to the front), I'd finished, connected the battery and I lent over to check I'd picked up all the tools/bits & bobs out of the engine bay and promptly shorted the +ve terminal to earth using the metal strap on my watch.!! Much sparking and a nasty burn.!!!
Lesson learnt... Onwards & upwards.!
I've also known of people using a socket and ratchet wrench to do up either battery terminal and fumbled the wrench - It drops across and shorts to the other terminal... Major calamity... Always use a short correctly sized spanner.
Nick
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23 minutes ago, stuart said:
...first make sure you have it the right way round as the seal should lean towards the rear of the car so when you have it fitted it pulls down tight on the scuttle. Just look at it end on and you`ll see what I mean.
+1
...and I got it the wrong way around first time
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15 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
if you add the Revington reshaped steering levers ... This particular mod works with a steering box very well.
+1
I was originally going to complete a rack & pinion conversion on my 3a - I asked around and read up.
In the end I fitted the Revington steering levers and it has vastly improved the steering and turn in. I have also found that it has also stopped the vagueness when going in a straight line. The steering box may still be a bit heavier to steer than a rack & pinion but with a standard diameter steering wheel and making sure you're moving when steering, I don't find it a problem. A good push-pull steering technique also helps..!
Have you tried adjusting the steering box? ...they are adjustable to a certain extent.
Nick
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Hi
Spotted this today on BBC news online in an article about traffic levels returning to early 1970's levels - The caption was that there were concerns about air quality even then...
The article also featured a period shot of a queue of traffic - all the cars were British... How times change..!
Nick
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17 hours ago, Hamish said:
Let the engine builder start it.
no arguments later.
+1
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My 3a 'Basil' waiting outside my local garage at Astbury for it's MOT last year.
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3 hours ago, Tony_C said:
Did you used to drive a (very rapid) 5 in those days? - Got a memory like a sieve but do remember some great times...
No, not me...
My previous TR was the OEWhite 4a I bought off Andrew W (Drewmotty) back in '83 at the tender age of 20... I was in the RN at the time and had just returned from the Falklands! ...6 months away and nothing to spend it on meant I had a healthy bank balance - for a short time anyway.
Yes, great times ...I'd forgotten the endless supply of Butcombe..!
Nick
Restoring tr3
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Hi Brian
That's looking really good! Nice to see another Silverstone Grey 3a...
Any thoughts/decisions yet on colour(s) for interior trim and wet weather gear?
Here's mine...