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pjc615ukuk

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Posts posted by pjc615ukuk

  1. M

     

    Hi. The company is called Walkinshaw Chrome Plating. They're just off junction 3 on the M6.

    Contact Arron 07729361502

    Or www.walkinshawchromeplating.com.

     

    £250 for rear bumper, and £225 for front.

    Any repairs prior to chroming are extra.

  2. Mark. To be fair mine was in fairly good condition to start with and only required re plating. That said, he showed me lots of his work, and some of the bumpers etc he showed me were in my opinion beyond any redemption...

    No problem as far as he was concerned though...

  3. The only reason I didn't post the details earlier, was I wasn't sure if it was permitted to blatantly 'plug' a business?

    I'd shopped around for price & turnaround, and this chap beat them all hands down!

    I'm a great believer in the old adage of ' you get what you pay for' so I actually made a 300 mile around trip to check his work out. Very impressive indeed.

    I'm more than happy to provide his details if anyone wants to pm me, or will post on here if ok to?

  4. Hi All.

    I've just had the rear bumper of my 1971 TR6 re chromed, and I have to say, I'm absolutely delighted with the results.

    Very reasonable price and a week turnaround!

    Happy to provide his details should anyone wish me to.

    Highly recommended!!!

  5. Thanks to everyone for their input. Much appreciated!

    Another daft question if I may though?

    The car had a fairly 'comprehensive' restoration less than 9 months ago, so I doubt I will be encountering seized nuts etc so hoping the removal should be fairly ( famous last words) easy.

    How long would you reckon the job will take...is it an half hour, or a half day of a job?

    The only reason I ask is I will need to get an extra pair of hands to help me and don't want to underestimate the time scale.

  6. Hi. Please forgive my stupidity, but I am looking to have my rear bumpers re chromed before spring.

    Not too ashamed to admit I am a complete dullard when it comes to anything 'mechanical' and just wondered if there are any potential 'pit falls' to their removal?

    Better to be safe than sorry...

  7. Hi. Would really like to make contact with the current owner of my first TR6 which I sold in about 1977.

    She's still on the road and has recently been taxed and tested.

    Last known whereabouts in the Lincolnshire area.

    Anyone?

  8. John.

    I know exactly the roof you're referring to. I've asked the seller a couple of questions but he didn't afford me the courtesy of a reply.

    He originally listed it with a buy it now price of £675, and to my knowledge he has just listed it again for the 3rd time!

     

    For me, ebay should have a rule that if an item is withdrawn when bids are already placed, the item cannot be re listed for a period of time.A month maybe?

    That way there'd be an incentive against those tossers that end auctions early when they suspect it's not going to achieve their 'fantasy' figure.

  9. I really would like to understand the benefits of the Magnecor leads over the Fitchett type, as I could buy 4 sets for the price of one set Magnecor leads.

    Given the fact that I doubt I'll exceed 3k per annum with either leads, how do I justify the additional cost?

    I do believe in a adage "you get what you pay for", but also don't want to go down the 'Emporers new clothes' route either!

  10. Hi.

    I am looking to replace the Ht leads on my TR6.

    The cars is running well, so new leads are purely for cosmetic reasons, as currently there are three different types, and two different coloured ones fitted, which rather spoils the aesthetics of the engine bay...

    I've done a bit of research on the net, but not drawn any conclusions as yet.

    I've looked at £25 sets from Fitchetts; and £100 sets from Magnecor.

    Is there any real advantage to the Magnecor leads?

    Thanks

    Peter

  11. Put it all back together, and to my amazement, somehow whatever I've done has cured it. YIPEEEEE!

    Whilst upside down in the footwell though, I espied what looks like a rehostat...its wired up, but not connected to anything. Very strange....

  12. I now suspect it's the cable.I removed the glass & bezel, and very gently moved the pointer(?)which seemed to operate smoothly.Decided against opening this tach up as I'll probably bugger it.

    Going to put it back and maybe follow Neils advice...

    Thanks to everyone for their input. I really appreciate you all for taking the time and trouble to reply.

    Regards

    Peter

  13. Thanks Roger & Ian.

    I managed to get it out.There are two machine screw screws (one either side of where the drive cable sits) do I just undo these to access the spring?

    Sorry to be so useless, but this is a result of a lifetime of company cars!

    Cheers

    Peter

  14. Hi.Attempting to remove the Tacho (see previous post)and I've disconnected the mechanical cable, but am struggling to disconnect the two electrical wires...

    They appear to be spring loaded into the tacho' and I don't want to yank them out for fear of doing any damage. Rule of thumb being...If in doubt, shout out.

    Could anyone possibly tell me that the two red wires are just pushed in?post-13418-0-85954100-1437152932_thumb.jpgpost-13418-0-85954100-1437152932_thumb.jpg

  15. Thanks guys for your help, tips, and advice.

    Will have a look at it over the weekend.

    Funny thing tho', whilst shining my torch up the back of the dashboard, I discovered something I had no idea was there...

    I found the 'eyeball' vents to direct heat/ air into both driver and passenger footwells.

    The amazing thing was I owned a 6 for a good chunk of the 70's and had no idea they were there.

    Wonders will never cease!

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