pjc615ukuk
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Posts posted by pjc615ukuk
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Right, minds made up and I'm going to bite the bullet and get an A type fitted.
Have to thank each and every one of you for your words of encouragement, it was all I need to hear.
Sincere thanks to all for taking the time to respond.
Kind regards
Peter
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Andrew -
See my response above
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21 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:
Peter,
Unless I've read your opening post incorrectly, why go to the expense of buying both an OD and gearbox - why not just buy the J-Type, have it converted and fitted your existing box by Peter Cox?
The gearbox removal/fitting, wiring, relay and switch is a relatively straightforward process and doing it this way is likely to save you well over £1, 000.
Cheers, Andrew
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Showing my ignorance (nothing new there then) but is that option available in an A type unit.
There's nothing wrong with my existing gear box, but most of the refurbished A type units I have seen so far come with a gear box combined.
Prices are based on an exchange basis, so presumably I send the gear box from my car once it has been removed?
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Hi Rob.
Couldn't agree more. My previous six (back in the 70's) had an A type fitted, and I loved it!
14 minutes ago, Rob Salisbury said:+1, ......... Once you have and Overdrive you never want to be without it, .......... a 5 speed box sounds a nice idea as an alternative, but it's just not the same.
Cheers Rob
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Hi All.
It's been a good while since I have felt the need to consult the esteemed members of this group, and hope your advice will enable me to reach the correct decision.
I have a 1971 TR6 which unfortunately is a non overdrive model.
I am considering having an A type overdrive & gearbox fitted, and given the estimated cost of around £2,500 (ish) I am wondering if it's a worthwhile expenditure?
I specifically want an A type overdrive, as that's what would have been fitted in 1971, rather than the apparently more 'robust' J type.
I suppose my question is with regards to the residual value once an overdrive is fitted - is an overdrive model more valuable than a non overdrive model.
Not necessarily overly concerned with recouping all of the cost of installation, but it'd be nice to think the car might increase by 50% of the cost?
Thoughts please...
Regards
Peter
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Thanks Chaps!
I'm hoping that I've the same problem (and solution) that Tim D experienced.
I'm just hoping whatever the RAC man did, is easily reversible,and I'm able to identify the wiring connections to their correct positions.
Watch this space...
Many thanks to all once again.
Peter
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Hi All.
Following my post regarding engine cutting out which I posted last month.
A really long story cut short, the car eventually broke down and it wouldn't start again.
The man from the RAC eventually diagnosed (frying my radio in the process)the problem as a faulty ignition switch. He then ran a temporary 'live' wire from the battery directly to the coil to enable me to get home.
Can anyone tell me is replacing an ignition switch an easy task,or would I need the expertise of an auto electrician?
Also will I now need a new lock and keys?
Finally, there seems to be a wide range of switches available, at vastly different costs. Can anyone recommended a particular type?
1971 CP car. Ignition located on steering column which is lockable.
Many thanks.
Peter
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Many thanks to all for taking time to reply. Much appreciated!
No plans for the next few days to get behind the wheel, but will let you know should the problem manifest itself again.
Regards
Peter
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hmmm 200m in 30m. Cant expect a lot from a PI engine with nowadays fuel, but even in the old days.
All valid points by the others regards
points and coil too.
Get everything as cool efficient as possible, I personally favour an oil cooler, but that traffic would frighten most anyway on a PI.
Another point I should have perhaps made clearer in my initial post was the 'slightly' overheating was some 3 hours before the stalling took place. Up until that point I'd probably driven over 40 miles with no problems whatsoever!
Could it be the coil?
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Pjc,
Could the radio cut out be a symptom? What happened to other electrical items? Gauges, 'ignition' light? Did they cut out too? That's a bad battery connection.
John
Hi John.
Can't say I noticed what effect it has on other instruments. Driving along happily listening to the radio, then a split second after the radio goes off the engine has stalled. A quick jump start in 3rd gear, and it fires up again.
I just hope I'm not putting everyone on a bum steer with my diagnosis of an electrical fault???
When driving in 3rd gear for the last few miles, the engine doesn't miss a beat!
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What type of ignition do you have, electronic or points? If points the condensers break down and give heat related problems.
What make of ignition coil do you have? If Lucas the silver Lucas coils have a reputation for a short life with heat related faults.
Hi Alan.
Running on conventional points. Lucas coil which I think is gold in colour?
Alan
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is your car a TR6 PI?
Yes PI model
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Hi Tony.
Standard fan set up, water coolant/ antifreeze etc.
When I say gridlocked traffic, I mean gridlocked! I moved about 200mtrs in 30 mins.
As soon as I got moving the gauge returned to normal, I'd hate to think it was head gasket related...
Didn't check the fuel pump temperature unfortunately.
Plenty of fuel in the tank too!
Its as if there is an electrical interruption, if that is possible???
Would the radio switch off if it wasn't ignition related - or am I really showing my ignorance???
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Hi Everyone!
Yet again I find myself needing your expertise.
I've taken full advantage of this glorious weather, and covered just on 200 miles in the past 24hours, 180 of which were trouble free!
I got stuck on a couple of occasions in gridlocked traffic, and nervously watched the temperature gauge creep slowly towards the red. Fortunately though the traffic eased before I got too worried about overheating.
I then drove approximately 30 dual carriageway miles without the car missing a beat.
However, when I had to eventually slow down for traffic lights, the engine stalled. Started up no problem,but then it stalled again, and again, and again. In fact every time I eased off the throttle it stalled!
After letting it cool down for 45 mins, I attempted to continue my journey. It started up OK, but felt like it would stall the second I took my foot off the gas.
Managed to complete the last 10 miles home by keeping it in 3rd gear.
I'm a total 'dullard' when it comes to anything to do with cars, but something is telling me I have an electrical problem, rather than fuel related. Would that make any sense?
The reason I've reached that conclusion, is a split second before losing power, the radio switched off.
When you've all stopped laughing, I really could do with an idea as to what might be going wrong.
Engine revs without issue, and it not overheating. Oil pressure good too!
1971 CP model running on a Bosch fuel pump.
Thanking you all in anticipation...
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To improve the looks of a TR6 especially a White One remove the Grille and paint behind where the Grille Surround is in a Matt Black,it wouldnt take you long to do 3/4hrs and it really highlights the front of the Car,if you look at your pre Resto Photos youll see where it should be painted Black.
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Would you like me to come out and have a look at it with you? If so PM me your contact details.
Hi John.
I've sent you a pm
Jon.
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The temperature gauge on most old engines goes backwards when the thermostat opens and lets cold water from the radiator into the engine. If you replace the thermostat check the temperature stamped on the old one to make sure it matches what your local ambient conditions require and also see if it has a clear small vent hole-it may be your problem.
I'd still try running the engine without a thermostat to see if the problem goes away. Some people use a new gasket every time they break the thermostat housing joint, I generally get away with using the old gasket and Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealant #3.
When you replace the thermostat don't forget to bleed the air from the system by running the engine with the heater on full and the radiator cap off until it warms up. Add coolant if any large air bubbles are vented out and the coolant level subsequently drops.
I'll give it a go. Thanks!
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Rob, Mike C & Graham.
I've noted your comments and really appreciate your input.
Whilst buying a rad cap I also bought a new thermostat & gasket, so will possibly investigate that further.
Thanks everyone!
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I turned the engine off the moment I saw the coolant creeping along the overflow pipe, and was pretty sure it would have resulted in overflowing altogether.Peter,
Did you have coolant escaping from the bottle again?
The large amount of steam could just be the fact it's pretty cold at the moment.
Darren
I did think about the exhaust 'emissions' being more apparent due to the outside temperature too...That was the point I realised I don't even know what I'm looking at!
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.Peter any update on this? Interested to hear the prognosis.
Darren
Hi All.
After thinking I had cured the problem with the simplest ( new rad cap) of fixes, I've discovered today I haven't!
After replacing the radiator cap, all seemed well. Ran the car for 15 / 20 mins and both the radiator got hot, and the temperature gauge registered to half way position. Happy days I thought...
Tried the car again today, and whilst the car appeared to be OK, there was a point when the temperature gauge went from the half way point, backwards towards 'cold'
I also noticed there does appear to be a lot ( much more than 'normal') more smoke / steam / fumes coming from the exhaust ???
Due to my severe lack of mechanical knowledge, I'm now a 100% certain that I've absolutely no idea what I'm doing, or even looking at!
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so you did.
PM sent Roy
Overdrive - Worth the expenditure?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
For sure. Either that or Stag unit?