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Posts posted by pjc615ukuk
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35 minutes ago, Hawk said:
Glad to hear ... people on this forum have forgotten more than I will ever know about cars!
You and me both! Fantastic bunch of very knowledgeable enthusiasts!
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Hi Folks!
Just wanted to thank each, and everyone of you, for taking the time and trouble attempting to diagnose the problem.
Car is now running like a dream,in fact better than it has done for a long time, and I'm absolutely delighted!
I want to give the biggest shout out to Alan cp25616, for correctly identifying a faulty condenser!
Alan very kindly reached out to me via email and suggested I replace the condenser, as he had experienced a similar problem with another members car.
I had a spare one in the boot so replaced it.
I Couldn't believe it when she fired up first turn of the key, as she has not done that in a very long time...
Alan, you are a f*#@ing star!!!!!!!!!
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10 hours ago, Mike C said:
Any fuel dripping from the MU? Could be modern fuel has got to your fuel control diaphragm over winter.
Hi Mike.
I'm guessing that's another possibility? I only ever fill up with Shell V-Power E5, and have replaced / diluted the overwintered fuel with probably around 40 ltrs of fresh fuel.
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1 hour ago, TR NIALL said:
Interesting to see those 2 figures quoted Bosch@90psi and Lucas@110psi always thought the Bosch was in or around 106psi.
Hi Nial.
Malcolm at Prestige fitted the Bosch pump about 6 years ago, so guessing he will have set it to 106psi?
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2 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:
Check the spark plugs, might be sooted up, bad gaps or in poor condition.
Gareth
Plugs have only done a little over 1k miles?
I took them out, and other than being a little wet, they looked a good colour?
Cleaned them and put them back. Still wouldn't start!
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35 minutes ago, RobH said:
Have you got electronic ignition or points?
Good old fashioned points supplied by the Fuel Doctor. Red rotor arm too!
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39 minutes ago, charlie74 said:
Could be the coil; they’re easy enough to swap and see. Make sure all wire connections are good. Fresh fuel to dilute old might help as well…
Old fuel has been well and truly been diluted, as I've probably put 40 ltrs ( and used most of it) since the problem started.
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40 minutes ago, elclem1 said:
Fuel tank full of crud?
That is always a possibility I guess?
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Had a good few years of trouble free motoring until recently.
After it emerged from hibernation this spring, I had an awful job actually starting it, but got it going eventually...
Went on a run for about a mile and the engine stalled. On starting up again, it was backfiring like something from the Somme!
Eventually got going again, though felt a bit lumpy?
Gave it a good run (80 mile round trip) and after a spirited blast, it stalled on decelerating, and refuse to start for about half an hour.
Drove approximately 20 miles home without further incidents.
Yesterday I eventually managed to start it and backed out of the garage.It felt like it wasnt running on all cylinders, but then started backfiring badly, then stalled.
It's now refusing to start.
Turning over fine, just won't fire up.
I'm clueless with cars, and my local TR specialist garage are booked up for a month!A chap on a local classic car fb page has suggested the coil could be the culprit?
1971 CP model. Lucas / Bosch pi system
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13 hours ago, John McCormack said:
Thanks Peter and Mick. I did have my hopes up, I was sitting here imagining angles for the hardtop and though it might be the RHD one. A good pickup on the part number.
What is the 'modified' one like? Does it fit?
Hi John.
I never tried it to be honest, as when my top was returned after the restoration the offending brackets were already on the roof.
Tell you what I'll do, I'll send you the bracket which was altered by the man whom owns TR Trader in Manchester ( he assured me that with a bit of 'wiggling' it would fit) and if it's of any use to you we can come to an arrangement you're happy with?
Regards
Peter
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Right, that answers the question and more importantly, saves me straining my neck to check my hard top on the mezzanine.
Thanks Mike for identifying which hand it is, and apologies to John Mc Cormick for getting his hope's up.
Peter
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I'll check and let you know.
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Hi John.
I have two brackets, one of which is perfect, and the other has been heated up and bent in an attempt to make it the opposite hand.
My hard top was at the restorers at the time, and I'd forgotten that brackets were already attached to the top.
So, rather annoyingly I end up buying these brackets unnecessarily- doh!
I was lucky with the purchase of one bracket paying only £20 on ebay, but paid TR Trader in Manchester £50 for the altered one.
I'd probably be happy enough to get £50 for the pair. Expensive I know,but I'm guessing you're as desperate as I was at that time?
Regards
Peter
On 6/7/2021 at 8:45 AM, John McCormack said:Yes. Two 1/4" UNF bolts hold it to the B pillar.
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I'll try that. Many thanks guys!
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On 6/1/2021 at 8:14 AM, John McCormack said:
I bought a factory hardtop recently and have finally got it nearly all sorted. One of the nuts in the hardtop that the windscreen bolt engages into had broken free so I couldn't tension the front of the top down. All fixed now.
The top didn't have the B post fixings when I bought it. I have acquired through sheer luck the passenger (left) side brackets and the lower half of the drivers side. I need the piece of the bracket that bolts onto the B post. Photo below of the passenger side one, the piece bolted to the B post is what I'm after. They are handed so a drivers side one won't work.
I have tried the usual sources Rimmers, TR Shop, Moss, Roadster Factory and the Australian ones with no luck.
If anybody has one they don't want I'll buy it and pay package and postage.
Hi
Is it the part which is attached to the hardtop itself?
Regards
Peter
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Hi Guys. The speedo in my '71 TR6 has finally given up the ghost.
Prior to stopping working it had become a little 'jerky' and had stopped a couple of times over the last 100 miles or so.
Is there any easy way of determining where the fault is, cable or speedometer itself?
Regards
Peter
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On 2/1/2020 at 1:59 PM, Kevo_6 said:
Hi, just done a MOT check and it ran out on the 8th September 2017, it’s white and I assume still about.
Hi Kevo.
I've been trying to trace it for the last 6/7 years. It's currently taxed ( as is every year I might add) until may.
It has done a few hundred miles between mot''s up until it stopped getting tested.
It's out there somewhere!
Thanks for your response anyway.
Regards
Peter
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Hi. Anyone know the whereabouts of my old TR6 ? I sold it for £750 in 1978 for the deposit on my first house. Last known whereabouts was Lincs???
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Brilliant! Thanks a million!
Peter
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Hi All.
I am not too far away from taking delivery of my factory steel hardtop,which has undergone a full restoration.
I finally bit the bullet and bought all of the necessary mechanical bits & bobs, and the various seals etc.
Before I start cutting the fur flex trim, I'm wondering if there are any potential pitfalls or tips I could do with knowing?
Also I believe ( previous threads on here) that there are fitting instructions - would anyone have a copy as they're no longer listed on Rimmers website?
Thanking you in anticipation...
Regards
Peter
'71 TR6 CP.
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16 minutes ago, Waldi said:
It could be the fuse or the intertia switch if you have one. This is installed under the bonnet against the fire wall. Or the ignition switch.
I would first check the fuse.
Then, if you have a multimeter, measure if you have 12V at the pump and work backwards.
And use a wiring diagram. Makes fault finding much easier.
Waldi
Sorted - it was the inertia switch. Thanks Waldi!!!!
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I've not started the car for a couple of months, but due to the change in the weather I decided to give it a run today.
Flat battery to start with which was rectified with a spare battery.
Bosch fuel pump sounded good initially, and nothing appeared untoward. However, after cranking it half a dozen times without success I then realised that said pump was no longer working - arrrggghhh!
I'm a complete novice when it comes to anything mechanical & electrical so haven't a clue where to start looking.
Could it be a fuse?
Any ideas gratefully received.
Lumpy acceleration?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Guys & Gals.
Sorry to show my complete lack of knowledge once again.
Took car out for a run today, started up ok, ran for about 5 miles perfectly.
Then feels like it's not firing on all cylinders under load?
Revs freely in neutral.
Does this point to an injector issue?