[Help]

After twenty-two years of trouble free motoring my TR6 threw a massive wobbler.

The cable on the injection until came adrift leaving the engine at full throttle when I started her up. I thought I had repaired the cable roadside only to find the throttle was still fully open. In all the engine was only at full revs for around ten seconds but that was enough for the big ends to go. I am no mechanic but Im sure this will be an engine out job to repair the damage.

Does anyone know a good mechanic. I live in Horton Kirby, Kent, ten minutes from junction 3 of M25, near Brands Hatch.

I would be most grateful for any recommendations, would it be possible to do an exchange ?

I can not complain as I have been very lucky in the past but I am still absolutely gutted.

As always, thanks in advance.

Grant

 

[TR2 Oil Filter]

Hi Rob,

The adaptor was already fitted when i bought the car.

Those dimensions do match my old filter. I will order one today.

Thanks very much for your help.

Grant

[TR2 Oil Filter]

Thanks for all your info guys.

Rob, you are correct, the thread is 3/4. I have looked at the filter you use. None of the photos show the rubber seal. Do you remember if the seal is on the edge of the chamber like the photo I have attached.

cheers

Grant

 

oil filter.pdf

[TR2 Oil Filter]

Good afternoon chaps,

I am seeking help to try and track down the correct oil filter for my TR2. I have been searching for almost a year with limited success.

The problem is when I cross reference the old filter the searches come up with the wrong filter. The 16mm thread is correct but the rubber seal is always in the wrong position.

The original filter is a Power Train filter PMFL 14 with a built in non return valve. The only filter I have found that fits has no return valve from SC Parts group with SCHRAUbkartusche 1450895. The filter is half the size of the original. I am concerned it might damage the engine in some way.

I would be most grateful if anyone knows the current day equivalent to the Power Train filter.

I have attached a photo.

Thanks in adavance

Grant

[TR2 Gearbox oil change]

Thanks very much for your quick responses, I will change the gearbox oil today. 

Peter that's a great link, thank you.

Happy motoring 

Grant

[TR2 Gearbox oil change]

In my last post I did warn you guys that I would ask some stupid questions. Heres your stater for ten.

After changing the oil in the diff I moved onto the gearbox only to find that the top up bolt is only 8mm wide. Is this really the only way of re filling the gearbox. Am I looking at the wrong bolt. It appears to be correct but how are you meant to re fill the gearbox with such a small entrance. The flexible tube on the Comma bottle is bigger than the 8mm whole.

I have attached an image with the offending bolt highlighted.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

TR2 gearbox.pdf

[New Tr2 Owner]

Hi Rob, James and Bob,

Thanks again for your advice, I will check the bullet connectors tomorrow just to rule that one out. I hope it is the flasher unit as I do not fancy dismantling the steering wheel. I might have connected the wrong P & L terminals to the new unit. The horn does work.

Ill order some Castrol SAE90 for the Gearbox and diff, Thanks guys.

 

[New Tr2 Owner]

Thank you for all your advice on the radiator and wing mirrors. 

Thankfully I did not have to replace the radiator. It turned out to be a combination of Me over filling the rad, along with the thermostat and kenlowe fan not working. It didn't help that the overflow tube was drenching the rad making diagnosis very difficult. Why didn't Triumph fit a bottle in the first place ! The cooling system now works perfectly, well, for the time being !

Unfortunately due to work commitments I have only been able to spend a few hours working on the car in the past few weeks.

My biggest problem now is the indicators, they stopped working whilst I was test driving the car before I bought it. I didn't think it would be such a problem as my TR6 had the same problem. A dodgy earth was always the culprit but having checked all the connections to the lights i still have the problem. I bought a new switcher from Rimmers, still no luck. I can only think it is the actual lever on the steering wheel.

The symptoms are, The yellow light on the dashboard stays on all the time, the bulbs are all working when I switch the lights on but do not flash when I engage the indicator lever. Any ideas please chaps.

I also have a question about gear oil. I want to drain the gearbox and the diff. Can I use the same oil on both. I was thinking of  either Castrol Classic ST90 SAE90 Classic Mineral Gear Oil or Comma EP80W-90.

Can you also advise me which oil is best to top up the SU carburettors please.

My quest for the perfect wing mirror continues, thanks again for your advice.

Kind regards

Grant

[New Tr2 Owner]

Good morning chaps

My apologies for the slow reply, I'm currently working down in Southampton on the England v Pakistan test match for Sky. despite the inclement weather its been a very busy couple of days.

Thank you for all your suggestions and tips, I really appreciate your help.

I live in Horton Kirby, a small village in Kent, ten minutes from Brands Hatch. I will definitely do away with the hole for the starter and give the guys you have suggested a ring re a re core.

Bob, the only photos I have of the engine are 18 months old when I first went to look at the car. Other than a new master cylinder and Petrol pump nothing else has changed. I have attached a couple of photos.

Does anyone know which wing mirror I can use which attaches to the windscreen frame. I am reluctant to use mirrors on the wings as I really like the flow of the wings. All the mirrors at Moss and Rimmers appear to be wing mirrors. I do not feel safe just using the tiny rear view mirror.

Thanks again, for your help. i am sure I will be in touch with other problems in the future.

Grant

 

TR2 Engine 3 .pdf TR2 ENGINE FEB 2019.pdf

[New Tr2 Owner]

Hello all Tr2 owners,

I would like to introduce myself as I am now the very proud owner of a Beautiful 1955 Tr2. I have been a member of the register for over twenty years as I have owned a 1975 TR6 since 1998. 

The 2 has been well looked after by the previous owner who bought the car back in 1997. it was resprayed last year, has a Hard top, unleaded head, new wire wheels & tyres, hi torque starter motor, front disc brakes, new master cylinder & petrol pump amounts many other bits and pieces.

The engine bay lets it down a bit but the real problem is it has not been driven much over the past five to ten years. I am no mechanic, so please excuse the daft questions I may ask in the future. I can do the easy stuff but I use a pro when more difficult jobs come along.

As fully expected it has developed a few problems now that I am driving the car on a regular basis. The biggest one being the radiator. It has a few stone chips which start to leak once the pressure builds up. I  fully expect to replace the radiator once further inspections have been carried out.

I have spotted on ebay and amazon, TR2 aluminum 3 row radiators for £180, made by GPI racing who I think are based in Netherlands. This seams to cheap to be true. 

Has anyone used this company or have any knowledge of these cheaper radiators. The rads on Moss and Rimmers come in at around £500.

Any advice on who sells the best radiators for the best price would be most welcome.

I have attached a photo the TR2 and of the ad on Amazon.

Kind regards

Grant Coulson

 

 

 

TR2 Photo.pdf TR@ Rad.pdf

[TR6 Diff oil leak/removal]

Thanks very much for all your replies. 

Rich, It is coming from the rear but as you know it's very difficult to actually see exactly which seal without getting it up on ramps, it might be more than one seal.

Steve, its a job I would not take on myself, I have very limited engineering skills.

Roger, that's a good shout, I'll give Maidstone a call.

Mark, I was unaware the diff had a breather, having looked at diagrams i will now have a fiddle around. I might be lucky but as the leak has been around for years I would imagine the seals will have been blown by the pressure should the breather be blocked.

Thanks again for all your input.

 

[TR6 Diff oil leak/removal]

I live in Kent a few minutes from Brands Hatch. I am looking for a reliable mechanic to remove the diff on my 1975 TR6. The diff itself is working well but the oil leak has gradually got worse to the point were I have to top it up twice a year using almost a litre each top up. I feel I have pushed my luck far enough and the time has come for a complete overhaul on the rear end.

I would be most grateful if anyone recommend  a mechanic or garage in my area. Although I have had the 6 for over twenty years I have been lucky enough not to have any major mechanical work carried out on the car.

I have attached a photo of my pride and joy

Kind regards

Grant Coulson

[tr6 starter motor]

Hi Pete,

 

Sorry for the slow reply, been on a short trip away.

Looking back, I did not explain were the brown wire was on the original starter. It is on a smaller half size spade attachment situated right next to were the red & white wire connects to a normal size spade. Both connections are on the solenoid. They are not joined together.

As far as i can see, everything is still working. The car now starts first time, it use to take a few turn overs, does sound a bit modern but a small price to pay.

[tr6 starter motor]

Hi Pete,

 

Thanks for your post.

 

My Tr6 is an original right hand drive 1975, 2.5pi.

 

The original starter had three connections.I have connected the main large terminal and the red & white cable to the 1/4 inch spade. The troublesome third wire is brown. It was originally connected to the solennoid on a smaller spade next to were the red & white cable is connected. As far as I am aware I do not have a ballasted ignition coil.

[tr6 starter motor]

Mike, Peter, Tim and Roger, thank you very much for all your advice. The starter is on but not without a few dramas along the way.

 

The starter came off without too much of a fight, what a monster compared to the new high torque one, 19lbs compared to 8lbs and a lot smaller. It took a lot of twisting but came out under the steering rack.

The fixed bolt is a pain, I cut off about 1 & 1/2 inches and managed to get the nut on. I found removing the nut & bolt on the gear housing just above the starter gave me that vital few inches to get a spanner on. Tested the motor, wow what power, but did not start her up as up on jacks.

Wiring, I did as the guy at SC parts said and piggy backed the small wire onto the red & white wire and connected the big lead onto the isolated post. Put it all back together, all done. No

The starter turned her over, she fired then immediately cut out, she just refused to start. After kicking both our cats around the garden for ten minutes I had a cuppa and remembered reading on this forum that the third smaller wire does not need to be connected. Disconnected it, Bang, it started first time. So what does that third wire do ?. General opinion was it is either feeds the coil or it is a simple balance resistor. I have taped it up and left it disconnected.

 

Anyway, all's well that ends well, next project, the rear shock absorbers.

 

Thanks again.

 

Grant

[tr6 starter motor]

Hello all 6ers,

Although I have been a member for fourteen years, this is my first post on the forum.

I have to admit that due to time restraints and a serve lack of knowledge I have always taken the easy option and sent my beloved 1975 TR6 down to my trust worthy mechanic for any repairs.

Now that I have more time on my hands I have found new enthusiasm to do the work myself. This forum has been a great source.

Apart from the standard service, oil,filters & anti freeze, so far I have fitted new front shocks (koni's), and applied waxoyled. What a messy job !

Next up the starter motor, what could be easier, two bolts and a couple of cables. Wrong.

The starter has been playing up for the past year or so. Always starting but not always engaging first time. After reading a stream on this forum I opted for a high torque one from SC Parts. It turned up yesterday with no instructions and the pre cast bolt attached. I asked for one with out the bolt and requested instructions when I ordered. The bolt does not look like a problem as there is plenty of room, it may even help. My concern is the wiring. I rang SC parts, a very help chap talked me through the process. I should disconnect the short looping cable on the new starter and connect together the two thin wires on the loom to the small jack the side of the starter. The large cable bolts on the body, that one is obvious. Is the chap at Sc correct ?. I have read that the third cable can be left disconnected but he insists that to get the best out of the motor both cables should be connected.

 

When I come to fit, am I correct in thinking the steering rack has to be disconnected to get the old starter out ?.

 

Any advice would be of great assistance

 

All the best

 

Grant