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Everything posted by marting

  1. I have my system set so it runs at 100psi. It works fine and takes some of the stress off the Bosch type fuel pump which is working at the upper end of its design spec.
  2. I had a bit of a radical solution to this wanting to sort it properly as in normal times the car normally does 2 or 3 trips round Europe each year. I cut a hole in the boot floor behind the wheel arch and fitted a large swirl pot. This contains two Bosch style pumps. One is duty, the other is backup. I then attached cooling fins to the outside of the swirl pot so heat is removed from the fuel as you drive. If you then run into severe traffic on a hot day with low fuel as we did a few years ago in Strasbourg, you have coolish fuel in the tank to keep your pump happy. If you do cook a pump. A fl
  3. Hi Steven I have just had a rummage through my box of old injector collars. I have some of the design that are the same as yours. If you PM your address to me I will send you one out. Martin (Fred Millturn Parts)
  4. Hi Stephen. Are the linkage rods the aftermarket type? If so they are very hard to adjust and lock off. I can supply you with original spec linkage rods which will enable you to synchronise your butterflies properly without burning your hands on the hot exhaust manifold. Kind regards Martin (Fred Millturn Parts)
  5. Hi Andrew thats a familiar looking picture
  6. Hi all. My name is Martin Giles. Long time TR owner and member of the TR Register. I am on a bit of a mission to remake all of the the original spec throttle linkage and mechanical PI parts that the big suppliers list as no longer available. I currently can supply just about everything for CP cars. I have just finished making a twin to single choke cable conversion kit that TRGB will be launching I’m trying to build up the services and products that I can provide with a view to make it cover its own costs / or even make a return by the time I retire in a year or two. More details a
  7. Hi John, the 1DD’s are different to the DD1’s. They are later but still appear to have been early enough to be fitted to TR5’s. The order appears to be: the throttle bodies with no DD numbers, DD1 with no reinforcing, DD1 with reinforcing around one air balance pipe and then 1DD. All of these developments appear to have been made whilst the TR5 was being produced. Then DD2, DD3 etc for CP TR6. Then the CR throttle bodies started using DD1 again. Not sure if the DD numbers are meant to be chronological or denote differs moulds or suppliers but they were made at different times. When I am recon
  8. Hi John, thanks for that. There appears to be two versions of the DD1’s we have seen so far. One has no reinforcement around the air balance tube and the other only has one reinforced. What have you got?
  9. Hi Peter, those are early DD1’s. No reinforcing around either balance pipe.
  10. Hi Derek. Thanks for that. Are your 1DD’s original to your car? If you look closely at the DD1’s, you can see that there is reinforcing only on one side where the balance pipe enters the casting, so the ones with no numbers and DD1’s are definitely early. The numbering on the 1DD’s is almost identical to the DD1’s, which suggests they may have been made by same company or at similar time. I was just wondering if anyone knew for sure! kind regards martin
  11. Hi John, thanks for your info. DD1 are early and TR5. I am just trying to work out the chronological order with respect to the 1DD throttle bodies. We’re they between DD1 and DD2 or at the end of the DD# series?
  12. Hi Richard, I think what are referring to is where the idle air drilling’s are made that transfer air into the inlets. They were drilled and then sealed - aluminium welded?
  13. Hi all, Sad I know but I've been having an email exchange this evening with Michael in America regarding the DD numbers on CP throttle bodies. We are agreed that the ones with no DD numbers are the early TR5 ones, and DD1's are earlier than DD2's,3's,4's,etc. But where do the 1DD's fit in? To me the style of the numbers, the part number being on the top indicates they are early on and not after the DD5, which he believes is the case. I have attached some pictures of the ones I have on the shelf and Michaels DD1's. Has this been discussed before? Is there any record of such things?? Should
  14. Hi John - should be OK with that as I only do BACS. You would be lucky now to be able to get in a bank to pay a cheque in!
  15. Hi Conrad, Would be a weird scam if he's paying me money. I shall proceed with caution!
  16. Hi Harry You have got me wondering now - just had an enquiry from 'Pierre Dumoulin' in France. After a set of refurbished throttle bodies for his dad and seems in a bit of a hurry - 2 emails and a website enquiry in half an hour. Martin Fred Millturn Parts
  17. Hi Colin, I’m in St Neots. Where are you? Happy to come and have a look or I can check your throttle bodies on my test engine.
  18. https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/8-32-unc-a2-grade-stainless-steel-hex-head-set-screw-fully-threaded-bolts/
  19. Hi all, I have been working with Tim to resolve the issues with his countershaft. After replacing numerous bent and incorrect parts we got the cam to make friends and meet up with the actuating bolt. However, we then experienced issues with the linkage rods not aligning with the lever arms. Manifolds checked and set horizontal and the rear rod was still 10mm out. After some head scratching and further investigations and it looks as if we may have found the issue. The Mk1 PI saloons had countershafts that are almost identical to the TR CP countershafts. See attached extract from the parts
  20. Hi Richard, When the TR5's came out, they had no idle air valve. Tick over was set using the screws you are referring to. However, issues with rough tick over resulted in the retro fitting of idle air valves by dealers. See picture below of the TR5 retro fitted air idle valve on a manifold I have just rebuilt. The later ones fitted to TR6 were brass. If you have an idle air valve you want the screws wound out or removed altogether so the butterflies are fully closed and the valve controls the air supply to all cylinders for tick over. If you have an early car and want to retain the screws
  21. Hi all, I have made a little bracket that goes under the nut on the top engine mount. You can then rotate the bracket and it allows you to get the spring pressure you want without having to adjust the coat hanger each time! The squares on the green mat are 10mm each so it gives you an idea of the sizes if you want to make your own up. I have also commissioned a batch of springs with longer legs that means we can do away with the coat hanger once and for all! Kind regards Martin (Fred Millturn Parts).
  22. Not out of the question if you get stuck. I have a brother that lives near Crewkerne!
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