Trumpy3
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Posts posted by Trumpy3
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Clean the stick and use a black light (UV).
Brian
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I may well be wrong but those pistons look to me like the wear is on the thrust/anti thrust side. The 'polishing' is the actual original machined surface. Hard to see well in the photos. Need a close up.
If it is on the thrust side then it is an unusual pattern, especially after only 1500mls. I assume they were new when fitted.
If all bearings are good except for failed rod bearing it is unlikely to be a thrust bearing issue. Not impossible, just unlikely.
I've not seen any data here that would give the cause of the failure or the reported loss of oil pressure. If the cause
Brian
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My block vent is open and runs up to the catch tank without any constriction. Yes I have the external oil feed to the rockers as I run roller rockers. This setup was never an issue with the standard rocker cover and cap but it may have contributed to the problem. The problem never showed on the trip down but it may have passed some oil to the catch can but not enough to show and a couple of hard laps was the straw.
Am interested with what Graham has found to date.
Brian
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Yes. started with Megasquirt MS2 and single throttle body some 13 years ago. Now run 40mm Jenvey (just come down from 45mm) Sequential injection, wasted spark and MS3X.
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Non vented cap??? When I fitted a new alloy cover, I used a non vented TR4 cover and cap. My crank case vent was, and still is, directed to a catch tank beside the battery. The catch tank vented to the rear air cleaner. Next time on the track and after about 2 laps (short 2K circuit ) I became a smoke screen. Back in the pits I found the oil level down about 2 litrs and the catch tank full. Removed the rocker cover cap, and fixed with a zip tie, I fitted a Chux,wipe. Finished the remainder of the meet without issues. Back home I fitted a separate rocker cover breather fed to the catch tank. That was about 10 - 12 years ago and have never needed to drain the catch tank since. So does the engine need a rocker breather???? Mine did. At leased when driven hard. I always drove to the track and I had no troubles on the way down, about 150mls.
Brian
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If all the other bearings were good then my first concern would be the failed one. Lack of oil would affect all bearings. I would be looking for something that only related to the actual failure, not something that would affect all other oil fed items. Eg. bearing shell fitment, conrod, crank pin, oil feed to the failed part, etc. That's not to say the cause is not related to low oil pressure but my first bet would be a local one.
Regarding the broken lock tab, sorry I thought it was on the failed bearing, my misread, question still remains, was it OK when you fitted the oil pump?
Brian
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Oh, Just a thought.
Looking at that flywheel, has the oil galleries from the main oil gallery to the main bearings been enlarged as is done by some when doing race preparation?
Brian
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Graham
That is a lot of rubbish for one failed big end. Interesting that the rod with the broken lock tab is the rod that failed? Was one caused by the other or one collateral damage or coincidence. I'm not a great believer in coincidences. I assume the tab was OK when you changed the oil pump.
What are the other bearing like, main and rod. I see you have a spin on filter conversion. I think they are great but how long has it been on? Is there any correlation between fitment and oil pressure issues?
Brian
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If only No1 big end is shot and the other bearings are OK except maybe for some damage that can be attributed to debris from the failure then my first approach would be to concentrate on No1. Oil flow,mechanical or assembly issues. If all bearings show distress from lack of oil flow then the lube system is more likely the issue. Remember that if there is a general problem then there will be one item that will fail first.
At least this will keep you out of trouble for a while.
Brian
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Graham
Don't forget to remove the two aluminum main oil gallery plugs in the block to ensure all oil galleries are thoroughly cleaned. New plugs are available, or at least were. I machine up my own.
Brian
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Hi all,
When I was running track work, my TR3A's standard cooling system was not man enough to handle 40+C temperatures. Remember, for every HP you add to your engine is one extra HP you must handle with your coolant system. Ball park figure is for every unit of energy produced in combustion, about 1/3 is converted to mechanical energy, 1/3 out the cooling system, and 1/3 out the exhaust.
I now run a Volvo 740 cross flow radiator, no thermostat, and a Davies Craig electric water pump and controller with a electric 14" puller fan. On then track In 40+ ambient temps, the coolant temperature would no go above 90C.
The down side is in winter I have to refit the thermostat to get the temps up. Not sure how you would go over there considering the temperatures you see in winter..
Brian
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Brian
Sounds like your replacement cap is one supplied for a long neck radiator fitted with a recovery system.
The top seal is there to retain any fluid that passes the rad cap when the engine comes up to temperature. This fluid is then directed to the recovery container ( normally a plastic bottle of some sort) to be redirected back to the radiator when the engine cools. A number of local members here fit recovery systems as it removes the need to remove the rad cap to check the fluid level. It is this removal that is one of the main causes of radiator leaks and is caused by the stressing of the top tank extension when the cap is pressed down to remove it. The standard TR cap does not have this seal but it should not affect the caps performance.
The big problem is that the original radiator is fitted with what is called a long neck radiator. You would not be the first to buy a cap from the local store and suffer the same issues you have. The long/short neck relates the the distance between the lower seat of the rad cap and the top seat. most car manufacturers that used the long neck changed to a short neck in the late 50's early 60's. That is the reason that it is not easy to get a long neck cap, at least here. The long neck caps are available but are normally a order in option. I normally recommend fitting a short neck when the radiator is out for repair. Short neck caps are the norm in parts stores. The TR Register Australia stocks these caps.
The problem is that the effective radiator pressure is lower when you fit a short neck cap to a long neck radiator as the spring is not as compressed much as it should be. That lowers the boiling point of your coolant and and you can/will dump fluid when he engine comes up to temp. An overheat is the normal result.
Compare your old and new cap.
Brian
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Just a note for those who have not caught up with the news. The Roadster Factory in the USA burnt to the ground on Christmas Day. Apparently all was lost except for three cars, A side screen, a TR6, and either a Spitfire or GT6 (based on a photo I seen.
I,m not sure about the UK but a lot of owners here in Australia used the TRF for parts.
A big loss for the Triumph sports owners and the company of course. No word yet on what will happen in the future but suspect that will be the end of TRF.
Brian
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John
For what its worth. I would do what ever it took to dump the bomb type if you plan to use the car often. At least that's my experience. If you are using TR4 mechanicals then a Bendix would be a good choice but I would go for High Torque as it's much kinder on the ring gear and battery.
The flywheel you use will play a big part of course as the early flywheel is only suitable for the bomb or HT. The latter flywheel is only suitable for the Bendix or HT.
Brian
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Problem solved.
I had inadvertently interposed one inner and outer clutch springs. That meant one of the springs bound up and prevented the pistons from engaging the clutch.
Started to remove and examine the OD after breakfast and sent it home with the owner after testing just before lunch. Easy fix
Brian
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Peter
I seemed to remember I had read somewhere that the early ODs were all the same length, as these were. Have not been able to verify that but reading the Buckeye Triumph write up on the A type OD, it gave me a thought and possible cause of our problem.
When John removed the OD he did not disassemble it except a couple of clutch release springs fell out and he refitted them. When we fitted the OD we had removed all of the springs during the preparations and refitted them. As I thought they were all the same, and looked it, I did not take a close look. They all looked the same. When Buckeye did their rebuild the first time they had the same problem as we do. Turns out they had spring bind that prevented the clutch from activating.
Looks like OD of and some spring examining. Thanks for the note on springs Peter.
Brian
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Rob
This is an older unit and is fitted with 8 same length springs.
Tried "tapping" to free any stuck clutch. No success. Although assured by John that the oil level is correct, I will put more in today just in case. Would be embarrassing to pull it apart and find it only needed oil. I do not think that is the problem as we have oil pressure. This box does not have the fill level plug on the side and only relies on a dip stick to get correct level.
I think it will be OD off.
Brian
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Hi, I'm the mate who is helping. Have built a number of both A and J ODs. With the oil press gauge connected and input rpm at 2500 and in top gear ( my tester drives from the gearbox input) I can actuate the solenoid or manually actuate the leaver and there is a very slight change in noise, no change in output speed. On activating the control valve there is a very slight flicker on the pressure valve, no where as large as all the other boxes I have tested.
The control valve has been removed, cleaned and reset a number of times. The ball lift is set to 0.020".
The box is nice and quiet.
Suggestions ?
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I would think good maintenance would prolong the time it would take for the the problem to show up. Programed adjustment of the clutch slave cylinder would hide the symptoms until there was no adjustment left. The symptoms would show up quicker if no adjustments were made.
As to the cause, my betting would be on the return seal in the master cylinder.
Brian
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Clive
Did you find the cause of the fluid build up?
Brian
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I have just been through the same scenario with a friends TR3A here. The symptoms all sound the same. The problem showed on a trip down the south coast when we were about 600km from home. Nothing had been done to the clutch system for over 10 years and the car had been used regularly. I was asked to take a look and yes the clutch slipped. Did all the normal checks like suggested here and all looked OK. As suggested on this thread, I opened the slave cylinder bleed and a small amount of fluid came out. After that the clutch worked fine and the owner was able to drive home without any problems.
As luck would have it, I had a similar problem on my 3A a couple of months earlier after an upgrade to a diaphragm clutch. My problem was I had fitted the cupped washer at the front of the master cylinder back to front. The one that is retained by the circlip. I passed this to the owner and he checked his and sure enough, it was also fitted back to front. This washer is cupped and made it match a raised section of the push rod. By fitting it in reverse, you prevent the piston from fully retracting thus preventing the seal from allowing the fluid to fully return.
Why now after the car had been driven for over 10 years since any work on it? Good question. Can only suggest that over time and use, the clearance at the slave cylinder slowly reduced, the problem built up. Any regular maintenance would have adjusted it back to spec.
Just a thought.
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A trick done by many members here is to use a hacksaw and cut a screw driver slot across the to threaded end of the cap screw. It does not fix the problem of the initial loosening but makes it much easier to screw it in and out with a screw driver. Another option is to use a socket headed cap-screw.
Brian
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The seal on the left is for a coolant recovery system. That extra seal stops any overflow from dropping overboard and it directed to a recovery tank. It is then drawn back into the system as the system cools. The one on the right is one that a standard system such as the TR uses. Without the top seal, the excess coolant is simply directed to the overflow pipe. The extra thickness of that extra seal is taken into consideration when the spring tension is calculated and both will relieve at the nominated pressure.
I have came on a number of cars with cooling problems that have short neck caps being used in a standard TR radiator that was built for a long neck cap. This results in a cap that operates at a much lower pressure that that nominated on the cap.
I always recommend that when getting a radiator repaired for any reason that the long neck is removed and a short neck fitted. Over here, you can get short neck caps anywhere but long necks are normally a special order.
Brian
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The problem here is we do not know where the rack came from nor its specifications. If I read it correct, the rack does not seem to be central to the car. To centralize the pinion is a simple task of turning the steering wheel until the pinion is central to the rack,ie same number of turns left to right. If the track rods are equal, the uprights are not being stopped by the inbuilt adjustable stops, no other hardware is preventing movement, then the rack is not central to the car. The front engine plate is the prime restriction to the freedom of selecting a suitable rack and could be the problem. Its not compatible and was located incorrectly.
WE tend to use the Mk2 Escort rack (fast and standard).
I broke my car
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Certainly starting to look like a lubrication issue. Take a good close look at the filter head, all removed gaskets, particularly the filter head and oil pump/drive. Also all oil passages and cam bearings. You would be looking for incorrect fit or clearance, breakage or cracks, blockage, etc.
It would be best to do all this prior to having the parts machined/repaired as that could destroy any evidence. I say this as a reminder as it is easy to 'get on with it' and loose the evidence. You may fix the problem but never know why. I don't know about you but that really annoys me.
I'm not trying to tell you how to suck eggs, its just my background is aircraft and knowing the cause of failure is critical before repair.