Trumpy3
-
Content Count
116 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Trumpy3
-
-
Just checked the book. It shows them to be fitted to the rear.
Brian
-
Good question. I have always fitted the plunger to the rear.
Brian
-
Regarding a collision switch, a number of members here use a switch from a LPG car system. They are relatively cheep and reliable, although you only find out it does not work when its to late.
Brian
-
Rear seal will not always show from the bell housing. Most oil leaks from the rear of the engine, I have found, show around the plate fixed to the front of the bell housing at the back of the sump. Leaks can come from rear oil seal, around the rear main bearing cap, cam welsh plug, main oil gallery blanking plug as well as leaks from all over the engine as the oil always seems to get the the back of the sump.
I suspect a lot of rear crank seal leaks are in fact from around the read main bearing cap. This has been my experience. To properly check that you need to remove gearbox and flywheel, thoroughly clean around the rear of the engine, refit the flywheel and starter, support the back of the engine, start the engine and run for 10 to 15 mins. Remove flywheel and look. any leaks should make a showing. If the rear cap is the problem it can be fixed in chassis.
Remember, if parking facing uphill, some oil will always leak from the rear seal when the engine is shut down. It is only residual oil around the seal. Once the engine starts, the oil scroll will prevent leaks. I know this because it had me excluded from a hill climb because of a leak while stationary in the queue waiting my turn. Returned to the pits, placed a piece of rag between the sump and bell housing, returned to the queue and enjoyed my run up the Bathurst climb.
Brian
-
Every time the radiator cap is removed/refitted, the top Tank/extension is placed under stress. Removal of this stress is a plus as is the reduction of the concentration of the cooling fluid caused by the top ups.
Brian
-
Bob
Spot on.
Brian
-
HI.
I know this is an old thread but would like to add a comment. I have had some experience with the design and operation of modern cooling systems. I'm no expert but have enough knowledge to be a little dangerous.
The early "overflow" bottles are in fact recovery bottles. They were introduced to reduce the need to remove the rad cap to check the coolant level and retain the concentration of coolant additives ( antifreeze and corrosion protection). They require a recovery cap to work. These are caps with a top seal to prevent the coolant from spilling past the cap was engine heats up. In Australia, these are hard to find for a long neck cap as fitted to the early TRs. The line from the radiator must run to the bottom of the recovery bottle.
As the name suggest, the coolant flowing to the recovery bottle is returned to the radiator as the system cools via the low pressure valve in the radiator cap. This is why you must use a recovery cap with this type of system. All this ensures that no coolant is dumped during warm up but simply recycled. The bottles are see through so the coolant level can be checked without the need remove the cap. This is particularly advantageous with the TR as there is no need to stress the top tank extension which leads to a lot of radiator leaks.
The latest systems were introduced because of the intricacies of the modern systems with heating and cooling pipes going every where and the common use of cross flow radiators. Apart from coolant recovery, it also adds a self bleeding function with return bleeds from high points in the system. For this system to work the recovery bottle must be more robust and pressurized. As such it houses the pressure cap.
I use a Volvo 240 radiator on my 3A, and a latter Volvo recovery bottle with a 10psi cap. Never need to remove the cap and the coolant is not diluted with continuous top up. This has been in use now for some 14 years and included around 6 years of track work.
Brian
-
I turned up an aluminum elbow with an O ring to fit inside the block. It has a small flange on the outer surface against the block. I then taped a small (3mm) thread next to the block breather hole and after fitting the new elbow screwed in a short screw with a washer that worked with the flange to prevent the elbow coming out. The elbow was then secure but could be turned to any direction required. This has been in place for about 12 years now.
I did this with the engine out so would be a bit hard with it installed. It may be a bit to understand exactly what I done from this description but I am down at the Melbourne F1 so cant take any pictures.
Brian
-
My betting is on the raised lip on the scuttle. I use a strip of small edge trim on the lip about 2 feet long to quieten mine.
Brian
-
A quick addition to the above. You do not need the gearbox to be removed to fix the starter mounting nut, just the transmission tunnel.
Brian
-
I have had to repair a few of these, two for myself and a few for other members and one Toyota. I have found two problems. Burnt contacts and broken wires where the coil windings are soldered the plate that connects them to the solenoid contacts.
The broken wires can be first by soldering them back on. The contacts can be replaced as noted in the previous post. Burnt contacts are the most common. I have found the the contact kit that includes the armature is the best,\. The armature is the part that is sometimes called the plunger.
It is important that the contacts remain flat in the solenoid to ensure a full contact with the armature. To do this I loosely assemble the contacts, insert the armature and place a suitable sized spacer (piece of wood, nut, etc) on top of the solenoid and fit the solenoid cover so that it holds the armature down firm on the contacts. Then tighten the contact mounting nuts. Remove the spacer and refit the cover.
As a matter of interest, the starters we use here do not have a stud for mounting. It uses two nut and bolts. I make up a small metal tag that is clamped under the gearbox mounting bolt immediately above the top starter mount and extends down and under this top starter mount. I then tack (weld) this to the starter mounting nut. This keeps the nut in place when removing the starter. Of course this has to be done with the gearbox removed. It is matter of taking the opportunity when and if you remove the gearbox.
-
Mmmmmm. Sounds like head gasket.
-
Bob
Re the cost of shims. From my recollection, one shim covers both mounting bolts. Hardened washers should be OK if needed. I have 4 spot aluminum Nissan Skyline calipers with a custom made mount. My original disc was a re drilled Chrysler Voyager unit ( same offset and diam as TR unit). This was fitted back in 2001 but since 2014 re-drilling disc became illegal here so needed to find an option. The only ventilated disc I could find (I need 25mm thickness) was the disc supplied by Moss in there upgrade kit. The only issue was a 3mm difference in offset. That was overcame with 3mm hardened washers.
I have done over 30000km since and no issues. As a matter of interest, there was a loss of braking effort with the new disk (material? they are Chinese). I had to replace my harder TRW pads to a softer road pad.
Brian
-
One good thing about driving to the track is that you get everything closer to optimum. Down side is that it is uncomfortable with four race wheels in with you.
Re the IR gun, I paint a small flat black spot on the thermostat housing to get a reliable reading.
Brian
-
Acid bath!!!! You may need to replace the aluminum plug in the top of the head. People forget about that one and regret it when the head has to come off again, some time a while later.
Brian
-
That's not a very nice looking crank. What is all that discoloration? I thought that only No1 rod bearing failed? I would be reluctant to use that crank without some testing and certainly not the rod.
With only that photo to go by, it looks like lack of oil was the cause of failure and No1 was the first to completely fail. Looking back over your previous input on the subject, did the rod bearing suffer from low oil pressure and finally fail after your attempt to rectify the low pressure? I'm not a big believer in coincidences. It looks to me with the information at hand that your issue started with the rebuild and ended with the rod bearing failure.
Brian
-
I'm a fan of removing the crank gallery plugs. The one concerned with no1 rod should be checked at least. As there was no damage to the main bearings there is a good chance that the crank galleries are clean. Your decision. That is one of the major problems with not knowing what was the cause of the initial failure.
The crank tends to act as a centrifuge and heavy (metal/dirt) particles end up pressed against the plugs. It is this that we clean by removing the plugs. If No1 rod bearing failed due to debris trapped during the first build in the crank ???????
Brian
-
+1
-
Graham
How you going with that engine?
Brian
-
Certainly starting to look like a lubrication issue. Take a good close look at the filter head, all removed gaskets, particularly the filter head and oil pump/drive. Also all oil passages and cam bearings. You would be looking for incorrect fit or clearance, breakage or cracks, blockage, etc.
It would be best to do all this prior to having the parts machined/repaired as that could destroy any evidence. I say this as a reminder as it is easy to 'get on with it' and loose the evidence. You may fix the problem but never know why. I don't know about you but that really annoys me.
I'm not trying to tell you how to suck eggs, its just my background is aircraft and knowing the cause of failure is critical before repair.
-
Clean the stick and use a black light (UV).
Brian
-
I may well be wrong but those pistons look to me like the wear is on the thrust/anti thrust side. The 'polishing' is the actual original machined surface. Hard to see well in the photos. Need a close up.
If it is on the thrust side then it is an unusual pattern, especially after only 1500mls. I assume they were new when fitted.
If all bearings are good except for failed rod bearing it is unlikely to be a thrust bearing issue. Not impossible, just unlikely.
I've not seen any data here that would give the cause of the failure or the reported loss of oil pressure. If the cause
Brian
-
My block vent is open and runs up to the catch tank without any constriction. Yes I have the external oil feed to the rockers as I run roller rockers. This setup was never an issue with the standard rocker cover and cap but it may have contributed to the problem. The problem never showed on the trip down but it may have passed some oil to the catch can but not enough to show and a couple of hard laps was the straw.
Am interested with what Graham has found to date.
Brian
-
Yes. started with Megasquirt MS2 and single throttle body some 13 years ago. Now run 40mm Jenvey (just come down from 45mm) Sequential injection, wasted spark and MS3X.
Car Radio
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
There are units with a remote operating face where the main unit is positioned remotely, out of site. The face can then be attached to a fitting so it can be folded up behind the dash and out of site.
Brian