[Mr]

Headlights

After several years of putting up with candle power headlights I have decided to upgrade and include a relay kit.

There seem to be two main types - Super White Xenon Gas Lamps and 60/55w halogen.

Any advice will be welcomed

d2

[Speedometer Problem]

Hi Keith,

I believe that you solved the problem. Today I offered up the cable to the back of the speedo and gently pushed in the cable end.

So far all seems to be working accurately and without noise with the knurled locknut not attached.

Thanks

David

[Speedometer Problem]

Thanks Alan and Keith,

I have attempted to reinstall the cable into the back of the unit. Again all ran well, quietly , and with the correct speed for say 5 miles.

Then as before the wobble commenced and a noise came from the speedo.

I also noticed that the indicated speed was too low.

Regards

David

[Speedometer Problem]

Thanks for the info and link Iain.

Regards

David

[Speedometer Problem]

Hi,

The needle in my speedo has wobbled around since I purchased the car many years ago and so recently I took the decision to replace the cable from the gearbox.

The old part had plenty of oil around the inner cable.

The new cable appeared to be sealed and so no attempt was made to inject oil between the outer sleeve and the inner cable.

I ran the car for some 15 miles and the needle gave a steady speed. Then the speedo started wobbling again and the speedometer ran with a distressed noise.

Should I attempt to inject oil into the back of the speedometer or is there another solution please?

David

 

[Engine Mountings]

Hi Guts,

Thanks for the replies.

The engine mounts were bought from Moss and appeared to be the same as the ones replaced.

I did try a search but obviously input incorrectly as nothing found.

I will look at the LR mounts mentioned.

Regards

d2

[Engine Mountings]

Hi,

I have just put my engine back in the TR4a on to two new rectangular engine mounting blocks and notice that one of my circular air filters is resting on the inner wing.

This was not the case before I removed the engine!

What have I done?

I recall mention of a recommendation to use mounting blocks from a Land Rover.

Any advice would be most welcome.

Thanks d2

[Clutch Release Bearing Grease]

Hi,

It is the bearing sleeve that I was thinking about; Haynes refers to high melting point grease.

David

[Clutch Release Bearing Grease]

In the March Issue of TRAction was a very interesting article on suitable oils for gearboxes and overdrives.

I wonder if there is similar advice for modern greases suitable for clutch release bearings?

TR4a nut David

[TR4a Engine Mounting]

Thanks for the replies

d2

[TR4a Engine Mounting]

Hi,

I have taken my engine out for a rebuild and notice that the fitted rectangular engine mounting blocks include off-set threaded bars.

As fitted the blocks have their long side vertical but the bars facing the engine are nearer the bottom on one side and nearer the top on the other side.

It is probably better to get the blocks in their correct position before offering up the engine even if not fully tightened.

Should the blocks actually be mounted with their long side vertical or horizontal?

What should be the position of the threaded bars, nearer the top or nearer the front depending on the answer to the previous question?

Thanks

D2

[Loss of Compression]

Hi,

Thanks Kevin & John.

I have removed the rocker cover and the valve springs look conplete.

Will now try the 'oil test'

David

[Loss of Compression]

Hi,

Thanks for the advice.

The oil pressure appears ok.

There is plenty (probably too much) blow back gasses around.

No water has been found in the oil but the perimeter of the sump gasket shows plenty of oil around.

I was hoping to avoid the big ends and pistons and would probably hand over to a specialist to carry out.

Regards

David

[Loss of Compression]

Hi Folks,

Just noticed rattles from the rocker cover and on checking found that three cylinders had compressions around 160 but one was only 90.

My assumption is that a valve is leaking and my intention is to replace the offender.

The sump always seems wet so I intend to install a new gasket.

The engine has probably done about 130k miles.

Are there any other things I should consider with the sump and head off?

Regards

David

[Musical Engine.]

Hi,

I do recall reading in Roger Williams How To Restore (page 88) that a noise like a worn little-end is probably a worm shaft or shaft key that runs from the camshaft to the distributor to the oil pump.

In the past when I mentioned noises coming from the engine, a 'Friend' used to advise turning up the volume on the radio.

Regards

David

[Timing Chain]

Thanks for the replies.

I will check again tomorrow morning

David

[Timing Chain]

After a project for the grand children I have eventually got back to installing the new chain and tensioner.

Luckily the original marks were on both the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets and therefore by lining up the marks the timing should be unaffected.

However whilst there is a small amount of slack in the chain on both sides between the sprockets, there is slightly more slack on one side than the other.

Is this a problem requiring rotation of the camshaft sprocket so the slack is precisely equal before I fit the cover ?

David

[Timing Chain]

Revington supplied the Indian chain.

I have contacted The Chain Man (Andy) who has agreed to sort a replacement.

David

[Timing Chain]

Thanks

Yes I fitted the chain around the crank sprocket and laced the cam sprocket into the chain and then offered the cam sprocket to the cam.

The German chain has 56 links (eg 2x 28) whilst the original and the Indian have 58 links.

All links appear to have the same dimensions and when laid side by side the 14 pairs match on all three with the original and the Indian have one extra.

David

[Timing Chain]

The German chain came from The Chain Man and cost £23.45

[Timing Chain]

My project progresses.

Have left the original crankshaft sprocket in place and removed the camshaft sprocket to replace the timing chain.

I obtained an Indian manufactured and a German manufactured timing chain.

The first is very slack but easy to fit whilst the latter is too tight to fit.

Now confused.

David

[Timing Chain]

Good point; I must check the core plug for leakage

David

[Timing Chain]

Hi Paul.

I have ordered a new chain from Andy.

Managed to remove oil seal by knocking out with a hammer.

Thanks all for information

David

[Timing Marks]

Hi,

Some years ago I replaced the original fan and pulley with a damped MGB pulley.

There are 5 small grooves and I assumed that the end mark was TDC.

On recent inspection relative to the crankshaft recess I am not so sure that TDC is not the central mark but this does not seem logical.

Any thoughts would be welcomed.

Regards

David

[Timing Chain]

Hi Jerry,

There is no sign of the two holes in the cover on either the old damaged cover or the replacement but thanks for the thought.

Regards

David