TriumphV8
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Posts posted by TriumphV8
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Very interesting to follow your way to get it work.
Unfortunately I lost the point how to fiddle the unit over the inshaft.
Last step was the little copper ring you fitted outside to get inside more space.
But I thought it was still not enough? What was the trick to get the extra space in the tube?
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Nice to see that the story goes on.
I understood you finished and want to sell the rest.
We got the AN-4 units and will finish the piping next days.
Cambridge Motorsports has a nice sheet aluminium that bolts left side
of gearbox and with two bulkhead connectors a very good
solution to separate the piping can be established.
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Sorry to read that.
You may finish the job as a set for the saloon gearbox
as a DIY kit just to fit out of the box..
Many have that in use on the TR6 and will be happy to
have that improvement.
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9 hours ago, Z320 said:
2 mm is not very much, this is only about 0.7 mm abrasion on the clutch plate, we give it more....
The reason I asked for your slack hydraulic unit is, not bolded on the gearbox or a back plate most of them are not sealed.
I was not very pleased with these details, too.
But as Cambridge sells their system with those details and
many cars are driving with that HOWE unit, I will rely on that.
The other idea was to find a salon gearbox, that has the smaller shaft
where many units slide easily over the input shaft.
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Yes, exactely what we had. Looks like teeth when
you have the imprint of the spring on it.
Than you peel it from the bearing ans measure the thickness
to get an impression of the play between bearing and spring.
2mm was recommended by Cambridge Motorsport.
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On 3/5/2019 at 9:49 PM, Z320 said:
It sits slack between the 4 bolts? Can not see any nut.
Yes, original it was designed that in a similar construction two screws
are released and only two longer threaded bars are inserted and the
unit with the oil seal is fixed with a nut. Than two nuts each side are
mounted and in the proper distance fixed against each other.
I prepared the pins to accept a little rubber ring to get a nice clamp.
Proper distance is set with the two shims at the bottom of the pins.
It is quite critical to have enough space for the clutch to wear but
not too much travel without any movement of the clutch.
We fitted childs rubber (Knete) to get an imprint on the release bearing.
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Hi Marco, the reason to choose the Howe was simply that somebody did that before and Waldi sent me a picture.
We had to cut off the nose up to close before the oil seal.
It fits like it was made for that purpose. Funny that the pattern of the 4 bolts is perfect.
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We did not use the Opel Omega unit.
This is our HOWE:
Although specified being not suitable for a normal clutch, it will do the job.
It is advertised for a 0.75" master cylinder.
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I can see there is some work on the rear diff mounts already done.
As the frame is bare I would inspect the front mount carefully and
reinforce them.
Normally the front fails first and much has been written about giving
them some extra strength.
Easily done now and a pain when the chassis is on the frame.
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I have a set MAZDA pistons in 77.75 and a set in 78 complete with rings to sell.
It is the piston I already fitted to one of my engines.
Gasket can be obtained at Elmeso-Reban in Germany who do a gasket for 78mm.
It is about 120 to 140 Euros.
It is necessary to have a block with no recess.
If the block has a recess it must be milled off and pistons must be cut to fit.
That is possible with no problems. It is about 0.7 to 0.8mm.
Do not underestimate the work on the pistons. Pins are press fit and the
piston must be modified to accept floating pin by shortening the pin and
making grooves for the circlips.
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https://www.landroverexpedition.com/articles/universal-joint-differences/
TVC10010 is todays choice for TR6 but the one with the longer needles
should only be taken from a good supplier like GKN.
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4 hours ago, Z320 said:
Hi Andreas,
please do not wonder why you have problems with welded aluminium.
Ciao Marco
I did never have any problems with the mix from aluminium and cast iron.
First you have to have the proper antifreeze, in the above sample it looks green, what indicates
besides that the slime is not typical even with the wrong products, it is the green/yellow antifreeze what is for cast iron.
In the literature the suitable product can be found and one must make sure not to mix them up.
That is the reason why they gave them these funny colors!
Second many cars have a mix from aluminium and steel body, okay not the best but when I see
a corroded steel body after that long time I think there is not much difference.
Mercedes 190SL, Austin Healey 3000 and Ferrari 304 all mixed up steel and aluminium and not
only hoods or doors but also wings and other fixed parts.
Porsche always does a nice mix of steel and aluminium, wheel nuts from aluminium on steel bolts
and many steel parts at the engine body made from aluminium. By the way what I had to renew with
my 964 engine had been the air guiding shields, all made from steel and very rusty with holes in it.
So theory is one thing and it is easy to blame anything on that but in reality it is not that problem
in my opinion unless salt water is added.
Something to read, besides it is German it is very good:
https://www.albert-schoen.de/blog-leser/erklaerung-kuehlerschutz-mit-verwendungsuebersichten.html
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No need to worry.
Millions of modern cars use the combination of aluminium and cast iron.
Many blocks are cast and heads and rads are aluminium.
Using that offshore is another topic, our parts do not get wet often.
We simply use another fluid for the rad and thats it.
I have C12++ in use. Its pink.
The reason to use a modern rad is that my Bastuck rads simply had been scrap- Mine broke every year and after
five time soldering I threw it into the bin! 200 Euros are too much for three years of usage and my coplaints did not
make Bastuck to give me a new one. Today it rises to 220 and its not worth half that price!
If we do not take cheap Chinese like the scrap from Alkmaar or so we get a reliable rads that lasts.
This guy from Alkmaar sells under different names after reputation becomes bad.
Rads mostly come from China but there are pretty good ones and really bad ones.
If it has a top from a motorbike, half the size of ours its mostly scrap.
That is 115 USD FOB if you buy 10 directly in China.
I bought one from USA and one Chinese from AKS Dasa.
Both seemed to be okay. Look and work nice. After rad trouble now I am happy.
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Manifold in lathe to drill for the bearing
ready to accept the bearing
and bearing in place
my homemade tool
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Hi Ray you should invite us to visit the Blue Mointains
than the EFI can be set right with the experts at your side!
MS1, 2 or 3 can do the job.
MS1 is for the price and with the old board below 200 USD
MS2 with 3,0 board allows triggering with VR sensor from the crank
and has an automotive CPU
MS3 has some gimmicks we might not need but USB connection
and logging with store chip on board. It is MS2 with an additional board.
No need for more injection channels and crazy things. Look at DIY autotune for the MS and stim and water temp and air temp sender.
If you go for MS2 add the com to usb converter to avoid trouble.
And do not forget to keep us informed about the progress!
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Oh yes, some heads are different and the ignition advance is different....
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Hi Dave,
first the engine must be in perfect good condition to invisage such a tuning.
The difference between TR250 ans TR5PI is the cam from 256 degrees to 280
a different exhaust manifold from 1 branch to 2 branch and a higher CR and a different
inlet manifold with fuel injection.
All can be swapped quite easily but what remains is the fuel supply in the trunk and a high pressure fuel line to the front.
Complete sets with metering unit, pipes, manifold and collector and air filter together with pressure regulator, filter and pump in the trunk became quite expensive during the last years. To avoid trouble I would buy a remanfactured set from people like Neil Ferguson.
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1 hour ago, Andy Moltu said:
These fit inside standard steel wheels but getting them seems impossible at present.
Very interesting! I had the last set.
We prepared that set for a friend and it did not fit.
Maybe there are some different parts availiable.
Some modern wheel flanges are about 3mm more to the outside. Limora in Germany offered them. Maybe that is the difference, It was not much, but brake caliber interfered with the steel wheel from a post 1973 carb TR6 on both sides.
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Just another head prepared and as my name was mentioned before
here is a short video to show a proper cut valve seat.
Sometimes the seats are not centric, a reason can be that new valve guides are fitted.
But often quickly cut seats are also not perfect because the people push the cutter to one side.
In the video first picture the seat cutters and some tools can be seen,
than there is the valve falling back on the non centric seat, it sticks because the valve is pushed towards a side of the guide.
Next a seat can be seen after I cut the seat. The pilot is in the guide to center the tool.
Most of the cut off material is at one side. This shows that it was bad before.
At last a happy valve is jumping from the seat because its nicely in the middle and centric.
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There is much scrap in the market, especially the ball joints are terrible.
Often those in the steering do not have the cutouts to allow the full travel of the suspension, when the car is lifted.
The steering will become heavy and bends when turned.
Any play in the vertical link will makes noise. If there is no corrosion in most cases the brass item ist the culprit.
The Cheap Charlys in China learned to print Stanpart on the brass to sell it better!
A first test is to fit the limiter to the top of the brass and turn the axle fully to left and right.
Wheels must be on the ground. When the trunnion hits the limiter the brass may show its play by moving a bit away from the trunnion!
I fitted a new rack and pinion that was set far to strong making steering heavy.
Had to loosen the big nut that it turns easier. The steering should go back after cornering just by itself and do that quickly.
Otherwise there is a problem in the front axle that should be found and not tolerated.
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EBC made a set with 20mm or 22mm vented discs and spacers in the original caliper.
It seems the set is no longer availiable.
They are the smallest vented ones I know and they already need spacers for steel wheels.
They have dimples and slots. To avoid that a Ford disc must be used what is 4mm wider.
EBC offers a dimpled and slotted disc not vented and road legal with German TÜV approval. It is the GD199.
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There are many ways to solve the problem but first you should make sure that the problem is play in the valve guide and not too much that making them new is the recommended solution.
If guides are worn the engine will blow oil when driving with high revs and lift the pedal. Especially if you apply gas again the exhaust will fume white.
Remedy:
1.) You can use the rubber rings on the stem, cheap and not very good.
2.) With single springs there is Mitsubishi cap that fits direct on the guide.
3.) The cap from the VW Golf1 fits and needs turning down the top of the guide to 10.2mm
4.) The cap from Citoen fits that is the one Goodparts offers and needs turning down to 10.2mm.
Turning down the top can be done with guide in place but head must be removed. It is done by a cutter that fits into the valve guide. Advantage is that seats need no regrind.
Springs can be removed with head on the engine but than only 1.) can be used and 2.) if a swap to another spring makes sense.
I would choose 3 or 4 and make the guides new, they cost only 2 GBP. The only disadvantage of a removed guide is that it is necessary to recut the valve seat. All in all it should be around 1000 GBP with caps & new guides & seats cut & seats regrind
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Oh yes, I know about these problems.
The local dealers have their supply partners and if you want to go a different route
they offer crazy prices. Maybe the high price comes from the reason they
are German products and you asked the the price in GB.
Anyway often it is better to investigate a little bit and maybe find another supplier.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/382649413042
This is around 60GBP including the tax what in my opinion is a fair price.
When I swapped to the VW pistons some crazy people also offered them for crazy prices
beyond 100GBP. Normally I get 4 of them for that price!
Anyway as I said, County must not be bad because if you open a damaged engine you often do not
know, why the piston failed. Also broken piston rings may also have their reason in wrong ignition
setting or wrong mixture or compression or a mix of all.
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We are right now working on that project. Will fit three TR6
with these system.
Expect less pedal forces due to less friction and
do not see leaking problems. All modern cars use that
and they last more than ten years.
Brake Efficiency
in TR6 Forum
Posted
First question should be if the brake balance is okay.
If front locks and rear does not or other way round there
might be a problem.
If both axles do not brake as expected the brake booster may be the culprit
or simply the TR6 does not brake like a modern car.
Had similar problems with let driving my girl friend with the TR6. She comes from a modern
ABS brake Volkswagen and simply had no confidence if pedal must be pushed that hard.
I installed the double diaphragm Volvo brake booster, added vented discs at the front
and now the car brakes as it should.