TriumphV8
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Posts posted by TriumphV8
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....but I was also burning an excessive amount of fuel...
Not an indication for leaking gasket!
Better tell us what the engine does or better does not
to make an estimation what might be the cause.
Erratic running and excessive fuel consumption e.g.
would make me look at the diaphragm in the MU.
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A good setup is when inlet and exhaust have same lift in TDC.
That is yout timing setup!
Measure the lift of the cam follower in that position and multiply it
with the rocker ratio (somewhat 1.5 : 1)
Example: In and Ex are 1mm open in TDC
Valve lift is 1,5 x 1mm = 1,5mm
Valve lift is your indication what purpose your cam is for:
Up to 1mm it is very mild or stock cam.
Up to 2mm it is suitable for street use with two carbs.
But already idle not that smooth.
From 2- 2.5 it may work for a sporty driver but it
starts with rougher idle and is more a fastroad cam.
Better to use with 4 carbs.
Valve clearance is not that easy to detect.
Normally clearance keeps stock but with the TR
and the Kent cams for some reasons they increased the clearance to 0.5 / 0.55mm.
To secure that this is not required one should pick up the valve curve
and look if there is an excessive ramp in curve.
As that is a bit difficult to explain and those wilder cams will not be the topic
I would take the risk and put the cam in as an estimated stock cam
and normal 0.25 valve clearance if valve lift is below 1mm.
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Lots of parts are that way in my opinion.
Asked myself why i did not notice that before
until I restored a full TR6 some years ago.
The answer was that if you replace a single part
you are more willing to spend some work on the item
"individualizing" it what means make it suitable.
Even brake parts failed and thats a serious issue!
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This is my custom made bottom of the stock PI fuel filter.
It is done on a lathe from a aluminium tablet.
As the BOSCH pump takes a lot of fuel
one has to feed her that there are no bubbles from cavitation.
Attached is a 16mm banyo with a 12mm rubber hose
to plug on the BOSCH pump with 12mm inlet
If fuel from PRV is guided to the tank also a
bigger connection from tank to that filter is helpful.
The filter acts as a catchtank.
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Half way round the planet and same solutions!
I use the vacuum pump from Opel Corsa Diesel
easy and cheap to get here.
Cheers
Andreas
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1.35 degrees
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Interesting to read Tony. I was convinced to use six butterflies
but could not compare both versions.
What I can add is the swap from stock cam > 280 > 290 degrees
what was together with the manifold design each step a good choice.
Cheers
Andreas
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Will do so Tony!
Early up to catch your birthday presents?
Maybe another nice Triumph?
All the best to you from here again!
Cheers
Andreas
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Yes Roger, that is the point. From the distance difficult to judge
and if back in the car not possible to repair.
So to be on the safe side I would replace the plug
but anyway there is not the full pressure on the cams back,
otherwise it would pop out of the engine.
There is a pressure release bore
but there is a lot of oil and all should be tight.
So its like chess: If you grab it you have to move it......
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Hi Tim, as the the cam plug is not affected by water from the rear
I would leave him where it is until I want to fit cam bearings and need
the opening for drilling the block.
As the **** had happened I would press the plug out now from inside to outside
what best could be done with an old cam.
No good idea to fiddle on the plug with cam still in place
although one could try to weld a ring to the plug and use a puller from coachwork
but thats not recommended.
From two reasons it is not good to leave it as it is:
The plug might touch the cam and it might let the oil behind pass.
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Older thread but still very interesting.
I started with a MS1 for 160USD on the Rover V8
and later looked for a bargin in Ebay UK for TR6 PI-manifolds
to convert the 6 cylinder to MS2 what was my second system..
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Question to Microsquirt users:
Do you use alpha-n for metering as it has no atmospheric pressure box
or did you add it and use speed density?
Question to all EFI users:
Did anyone get the single throttle body solution work properly
together with a wilder cam beyond 280 degrees?
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Half the bloody PI cars at Malvern vibrate on tickover
I made a lot of investigation if tickover is the point where the throttles just start opening.
Very critical is the range of 1800 to 2000 rpm with no load at the CP engine.
As I have an electronic injection and a wideband controller I could watch whats going on
and what is a remedy to kill that bad response to throttle.
First the main reason was the throttle plate bearing and the linkage.
Second at tickover the engine needs a rich mixture around 13.5 AFR
or richer when plates are worn.
Remedy was to fit ball bearings from Model cars to the spindles
and change the linkage complete to silver steel axle from model cars
with needle bearings.
The plastic bearings are "cheap and dirty" especially the one in the middle
that has to be cut to fit! The flywheel was absolutely innocent!
The engine runs so smooth with a fine balancing and the Fidanza flywheel
similar to a BMW straight six.
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What do you guys use as a piston stop?
I had a piston-stop-bolt from SCHRICK camshaft company in germany that got lost
and so I made a copy with help from a spark plug.
Cutted off the bending of the steel body and pulled out the ceramic.
Made a steel plug that press fits insted of the ceramic.
It is 45mm longer than the thread and rounded at the end
not to damage the piston when hitted.
Thats it, done on a lathe in 15 minutes.
By the way: IWIS does a nice reliable chain for the TR6
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Something wrong with the steel plate below or its gasket between
engine block and plate?
Seems that the plate is no more rectangular when bolts are torqued.
Would look underneath the plate or try another.
Was it coated with something?
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http://www.kennzeichen24.de/index.php?cat=c18_selbstleuchtende-kennzeichen.html
This is according to German rules (StvZO)
Should be okay in GB, too.
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The Quaife acts a bit like a worn LSD.
If one wheel is lifted it spins and does not lock.
Only under "normal" conditions I experienced less wheelspin
and a more stable rear on my V8 that guides to better acceleration.
The benefit is that nothing wears and that axle does not crackle when
hot and a sharp corner has to be taken under load like on a parking place.
What I always do after fitting springs is to lift car front exactely in the middle
and measure car height on both sides and do the same lifting the rear
to have same load on each wheel.
Rest will have the reason in bad shock absorbers or rubbers like already mentioned.
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If you have a new refurb'd M/U then the very last thing to do is to start fiddling with it. I suggest you examine what is happening at 30 mph in 4th which would be about 1500rpm?
Would agree to that and recommend to employ a wideband AFR conroller like Innovate.
Both setup of throttles and mixture must be set and the throttle setup affects
mixture, too! There is often a misunderstanding that the MU is the fault but that
is often cured after setup of throttles.
So one must be sure that throttles are set correct what must be done at 2000rpm
achieved by shortening the throttle cable and than set the linkage for same flow.
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With no doubt you get more torque with heavy mass in the moment when you slap the clutch
but when putting high load to the engine constantly from what reason should the pistons know
that there is a light flywheel mounted?
-Torque output of engine is not affected by flywheel weight-
I took one of the lightest flywheels that were availiable for me and that was the Fidanza.
I used the bolts from ARP from the chevy engine with ARP lube.
That is now perfectly running for 7000 miles.
Fitted is EFI fuel injection and a 290degree cam and 2.7 litres.
Engine is driven under cruise conditions from 1200 to 3500
where my wife picks the car for shopping some times
and full load from 2000 to 6500, redline is 7000.
The rotating mass is still felt too heavy although I must admit that some humming
is noticed below 1500rpm and full load that started formerly at lower revs.
But who does that?
If power is needed below 1500rpm I would prefer to shift!
By the way the engine feels crispy and responds to pedal rapidly.
It feels like 20 extra HP at the crank.
Also shifting back before the corners lets the engine respond more easy
and makes the rear more stable withou paying too much attention to that.
All in all I would recommend a lighter proper crafted flywheel as a basic tuning
unless you intend to move a plow or transport horses or cows to a fair.
Vaccuum advance
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by TriumphV8
I think Peter already pointed out perfect how to deal with the distributor.
I can give details why vacuum was disconnected:
The cam is not made for use with 2 carbs with the result that you get a stumbling somewhere between 1000 and 2000rpm
with very low load. That can be deleted to some extend if the vaccuum is disconnected and with rich mixture.
The reason is because you have to press the pedal a little bit more down to achieve same speed
and avoid that bad throttle opening position.
This affects cams of 280 up to 290 degrees where more is not used with two carbs normally.
Anyway the vaccuum of such a cam is poor, significantly less than a stock cam and will pull the vaccuum advance box
in a very different way. That is why you can get different boxes and normally must choose a box that matches the cam.
So the expert took the easy way and disconnected what might disturb only.
Hopefully he set the timing to 30 degrees at full centrifugal advance what should be checked
as the marks on the pulley should be checked, too.
I would expect with the fastroad cam the PI compression otherwise its a bad configuration.
But the problem that the engine runs bad after a time in my opinion is different from all these topics.
For the understanding: Too late ignition like due to missing vacadv lets the fuel burn in the exhaust
heating that up but thats it. It does no harm to the engine as too early would do. That would burn inside
the engine with hammering on the piston without doing work and heating all up.
My attempt to the problem would be to check wether the problem is fuel or ignition related:
Hopefully you have SUs? Drive until stumbling starts and cut off ignition immediately.
Open fuel bowl and look for fuel level. Is it like normal?
If it is the ignition is more suspect, else fuelpump or tank ventilation, fuel hose, etc. could be checked
Fuel pump has a good position at the tank but normally works properly in the front if not positioned too high.
Good luck!
andreas