TriumphV8
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Posts posted by TriumphV8
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On 2/24/2022 at 11:52 AM, TRTOM2498PI said:
Hi.
How many years have you been running your engine with this gasket ? I have heard good things about these gaskets.
Good morning, more than 4 years.
Do not remember because after some time of playing with MegaSquirt this engine is now simply sitting in the compartment and requiring an oil change once a year. My regular job is to add the C-TEK battery fresher and check dipstick level.... It simply runs without complains
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I tried the cheap silver gasket from Rimmer and as it did not fail it stayed some time.
Later I swapped to the custom gasket from Elmeso Reban in Germany.
Price was around 120 Euros, do not know what it takes to bring that to GB......
This gasket is still in the car.
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Hi Tom,
its several years ago that I did the engine build.
Maybe close to 10.000 miles I guess.
In the beginning I set the limiter to 7000 but reduced now to 6500.
Cam is 290 degrees CR around 10:1
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There is something wrong.
Timing @1500 about 15degrees, @3000 about 30degrees
So the culprit maybe the dizzy itself or the drive allthrough the machine like timimg chain.
Easiest way to find out is to fit a fresh dizzy. For that I always have cheap item from SimonBBC at hand, what cost me about 70GBP.
I use that with a new set of wires and plugs and a fresh Lucas Golden coil.
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Before I touch anything I would have front and rear wheels measurement completely.
Anyway the lot of shims and the nuts not fully on the bolts is not acceptable.
It is a hint that there is something severely wrong and if kept I would go and weld in longer bolts.
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Yes, ordered the expensive ones and got the Kings for the expensive price.
They said as excuse the expensive ones are sold out. Told them that Chris Witor offers them for 25gbp and this was the last offer I gave to them.
Currently I am driving the expensive ones from Revington after I had the Tri Metal Kings fitted. Just from the oil pressure no difference.
Besides the problem that King stamps them badly, they have County on them and no hint that they are Tri Metals, they are fully okay.
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In the picture is the test version. Original is mounted in a box like below and mounted in the car besides the fuse box.
Interesting to see how others approach to the problem.
I kept the original switch for OD and added this item consisting of two relais, a resistor and a cap.
Unable to make da drawing I can say this item allows OD engage in 3rd and 4th if OD switch is of and than on is pulled.
After gear change between 3 and 4 the OD is kept active for 6 seconds.
If OD switch is forgotten in "ON" it will not engage when 3rd or 4th is engaged again. Than it must be switched of and on again.
Unfortunately the four parts, the housing underneath and the plate to solder it on was more than 10GBP.
It is about 25GBP.
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I fitted several sets of the oversize valves from Rimmer. I like them.
As I did not see much advantage from bronze valve guides but quite heavy wear I returned to the normal cast iron guides with them but added valve caps from VW Golf.
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Tubular pushrods are an option on tuned high reving engines but do not do any harm on standard engines.
When properly done they are lighter than massive ones and do not bend. Bending at high revs may destroy
normal pushrods. They look like a banana after that. Lighter pushrods allow less spring force what helps to
increase cam life.
TR4 had tubular pushrods, TR6 has massive ones.
Interestingly pretty seldom it is taken into account that the rocker gallery must be lowered with high lift cams and from that
often shorter pushrods are needed than the 206mm from the CP PI. In that case tubular rods are a good choice, too.
they can be shortened to any length.
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You can either watch the tipping valve from the top without fluid and maybe without the plastic container. It must move a little bit when you touch the Brake pedal a little bit.
Better use the Gunsons brake bleeder. You can open the caliper bolt and let the fluid out. If nothing happens the tipping valve might be the culprit.
Gunsons or similar ist always my favorite system for bleeding. Nasty bubbles that stick somewhere will come out.
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I did so but did not expect anything.
It just looked ugly before .....
But what i did with more hope to do something positive was to equipe the upper 5/16" bolts with a centering that each manifold is fixed in a defined position.
Without the throttle plates i fitted the manifolds with the gasket and expanded a flapper grinder with a bolt to equalize the area between manifold and head and established a clean smooth tube.
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On 6/30/2020 at 9:21 PM, Tom Fremont said:
Frankly, I haven't found much power difference at all within a range of +/- 5 degrees advance; only pinging and fuel economy. For the latter it would be nice to have vacuum advance for highway cruising but I haven't found a way to get it.
Tom
You can do a somewhat override the mechanical advance.
leave it as it is but put the dizzy output into MegaSquirt or Megajolt or Alden or similar.
You now take into calculation what the dizzy already does mechanically and do two things:
1.) add advance due to manifold vacuum
2.) swap the dwell time from mechanical 55/45 to MegaSquirt controlled constant dwell time. This will give nice spark at high revs and not heat the coil, especially when parking with ignition on.
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It is common to use thicker oil for the levers. For racing purpose it is a good idea, for street use not in my opinion.
The reason is that race track often is flat but street has bumps. I found out that levers have very small valves that make car jump and uncomfortable on bumps and uneven roads. The thicker oil makes car stiffer in good roads but bad on bumpy roads.
Swapping to modern sports shocks showed to me what comfort ist possible with big valves, opening on bumps. You get smooth riding comfort and good roadholding.
So my recommendation for street use ist to use very thin fork oil for levers and beware of SAE30.
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Can not open the data sheet but can gives you hints.
Valve lift in tdc overlap ist a good figure to find out what you have. The more the lift, the wilder the cam.
Fit the cam, go to tdc overlap and open the rocker screws until they are free. Turn crank 360 degrees and measure valve clearence with the feeler gauge using more than one blade If needed. Found number minus advertised valve play ist the lift.
In almost cases the metering unit ist not set properly. So this ist a good point to measure under full load exhaust AFR and adjust properly according to what the cam needs. Ignition ist not affected from these minor differences. Look for 30 degrees max at 3500rpm.
Newman cams are not bad, stay with them. Add enough zddp to your motor oil just from beginning, not to Ruin next cam by eating the lobes at idle.
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I found it helpfull to put a steel plate under the seam not to let it pop down and just from the beginning put the focus on connection of both sides of the seam by heating especially in that area.
I used the green tungsten sticks that easily brake when sharpening again after used. Any ideas why not to use the golden?
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First the recess is not good.
Although some say with 76,5 it will work, I would aim for a block without recess or mill it off.
About 0.7mm may be enough to get rid of the recess.
Two sources from me for the gasket:
and I used the cheap noname silver gasket from Rimmer.
The Payen is made too precise in diametre and can not be used for larger bores.
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17 minutes ago, Z320 said:
I'm not shure about:
does it make sense to explain why the 0.625 master works well to members of this forum who feel better by believing it doesn't work?
Am I a liar telling you this?
There are things between heaven and earth we do not fully understand. I built a friends engine very similar to mine, Megasquirt ist the same, and fuel table must be very different. No reason found.
Clutch ist similar. I found TRs that need the 0.75" master to open the clutch, others work nice with 0.7".
Also pedal forces often differ very much with identical clutch. The same Gremlins that perform in the electric system also work in the clutch. That was one reason for me to get rid of all the mechanic with Help of the hydraulic throwout bearing. I expect the Gremlins there.
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2 hours ago, Z320 said:
Hi Andreas,
sorry me, this is no criticism about you!
Did not feel so, all okay. Like your opinion. Also measurements from Jochem are interesting because I can not do that.
Just wanted to point out that we approach in a different way. I had a slippery clutch and found as a remedy the turbo clutch. Expected heavier pedal forces and found the throwout bearing to reduce a little bit.
Found a friend to try that all out as we need the turbo clutch anyway.
So i used my energy to produce a nice setup and at the end pedal forces and feeling for the clutch ended perfect.
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4 hours ago, Z320 said:
4 yeses for that, in theory,
but allow me to tell you about my experience and calculation:
the influence of the diameter from the small "Sachs" to the standard "RHP" release bearing is +/- 3 % to max. 5%,
while the masters make steps of 15% (0.75" to 0.70"), 25% (0.70" to 0.625") and 44% (0.75" to 0.625"),
so I found no need to bother the diameter of the release bearing.
I have no chioce anyway when I want to use the Opel Omega unit.
Ciao, Marco
Yes, that seems not make that difference but I preferred to test instead of measure and calculate.
At another forum the guys did not want to use this set because bearing ist wider and Toyota bearing ist even wider and I wanted to point out that there ist always a solution possible to achieve a perfect disengagement of the clutch and nice pedal forces with a matching choice of the master.
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Yes, it was 17!
19 was the Mazda Piston.
Here ist a picture of the 6 small ends, ready to bei pressed into the Maxspeedingrod.
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VW Polo BBY engine in 76.5 or 77mm.
Piston mußt be opened up 4mm to accept rod.
Rod needs custom small end bearing in 19mm.
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9 hours ago, Z320 said:
Hi Andreas,
please, I don't understand what you want to tell us with this?
Ciao, Marco
If the bearing travels let us say always precise 5mm it will releases the clutch spring more the bigger the diameter of the bearings is.
This ist because the spring fingers are touched more close to their rotating point outside in the clutch cover.
So with a large bearing you can reduce diametre of master cylinder a bit more.
The release travel way of the clutch pressure plate ist defined by size of master and slave and diametre of release bearing.
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1 hour ago, jr2 said:
Please repost the original picture
EFI for TR5/6?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I started with one of the first conversions on TR6.
Mine was the Rover V8 engine in TR6 more than 20 years ago.
System was Megasquirt 1, later swapped to Megasquirt 2 and some years I got one more TR6 with 6 cylinder and again Megasquirt 2 with CP manifolds and six throttle plates. I am happy with both.