Keith66
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Posts posted by Keith66
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Hi Guy's
There appears to be some miss-understanding or miss-interpretation here.
Triplex XXX is a brand name not a type of glass.
Original 70's TR windscreens would have been Toughened or Tempered glass (diff names same thing) which as has been said deliberately breaks into small bits as a safety feature, but it does get everywhere. Diff to normal window glass which breaks into slivers, all the better to stab you with, but of course normal window glass has not been allowed in car windscreens since the 1920’s.
A lot of those toughened 70’s OEM screens would have been Triplex as they were a big british supplier to the motor industry and I suppose Triplex could be associated with Toughened Glass as are Hoovers with vacuum’s, but Triplex no longer exist, its just a long gone old brand.
But Triplex also did laminated glass, I can tell this because my screen has the legend “Triplex Laminated” on it.
So I was always going to fit a laminated screen, it would be mad not to, but as my old screen turned out to be laminated (assumed it was just toughened until I looked) and a major branded one (rather than a cheapo Vietnamese copy sourced on price alone by the supplier) I thought I’d pop it back in.
The real query was it is sensible to use the old rubber, old being 25/30 years.
But given Waldi’s comments I’ll give it a go.
Cheers Keith
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Hi Guy’s
Going to refit my windscreen soon. Initially thought I’d buy a new screen and rubber but after looking at the screen and realising it was a Triplex Laminated and isn’t as scratched as I thought I’ll refit and see how it is.
Question is do I refit the rubber which must be pushing 30 years old or buy new.
It looks in ok condition, isn’t split or cracked but I’m assuming they do dry out and stiffen up over time.
Against that thought is some things I’ve read about the very tight fit of new ones being a bit small and the potential for poor quality.
Any feedback appreciated.
Cheers Keith
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Hi Andy
Good that the badge is good nick. My original enamelled one was badly damaged but the new one was not great as its curve just did not fit the plinth and i'm sure tightening the nuts to try to bend it to the plinth would have just cracked it.
So i followed Ed's method and refurbed the original in body colour.
Not 100% but looks ok and slightly unusual Not too obvious as my body colour is Sapphire.
Cheers Keith
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Hi Andy
I’ve recently been refurbing the grille on my 72.
The lower finisher, if we are talking about the same thing is 714831, is still available and comes in black, I got one.
The thing that isn’t available is the steel L section grille surround. Mine was shot but fortunately Bill944T, on here, was good enough to donate a SH one he had for a donation to his charity. Top man.
Its now more or less finished as you can see in the pic and I went for Satin black, don’t know if that’s correct or not but couldn’t really imagine it being gloss.
However as mine is a 72 I should NOT have the upper and lower chrome trims, but they look nice.
Also before you fit the grille black out the body colour behind it. Good guide to that on Bullfire.net page 114. How’s the badge? again mine was shot and the new one I bought was useless so I had to refurb the old one, again using Ed’s guide on Bullfire.net
Worth doing though as a nice grille looks good, esp when I take the blue protective film off the shiny bits and fit a black strip in the central bar
Cheers Keith
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Hi Richard
Just had a quick look at RS and as you say loads of sizes and they do look better quality and being industrial focused probably are.
Prices are higher but still more than reasonable and TBH i prob pay more if the quality is right, just don't tell anyone, lol,
So i'll do abit of measuring and get some.
Cheers Keith
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Hi All
Can anyone help with a part recommendation?
So part the number is UKC2451 and is the flexible fuel pump mounting for original Lucas fuel pumps.
I bought some a good whie ago, although not sure when, as the old ones were all cracked and split. The new ones looked diff, a bit less substantial but hey its just a mounting so how hard can that job be.
Well flippin difficult it seems. As you can see from the pic's one of the new ones has already failed with the threaded plate not longer "stuck" to the rubber. Its obvs to see why, the original is a lot more substantial and the rubber is much more moulded around the threaded plates rather than stuck on the end.
Now I understand things like this will fail eventually but the 50 year old item is in much better condition that the 4 or 5 year old one esp given the original had done 70k plus miles and the new one has done precisely ZERO miles as my car is not even on the road.
So the question does anyone know of anyone who sells a etter quality item or is it take pot luck and replace them regularly.
Cheers Keith
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Hi All
My 10 peneth on this one is. I kept my original card one as the condition was fine so didn't have to think about new.
But my experience was that I've fully refitted all of my dash, including hoses and electrics and didn't have any fit problem or difficulties at all. So given the fitment comments above maybe resurrecting the original as Ed says is worth consideration.
The only thing i've done is flock the interior which makes it look and feel abit nicer.
Cheers Keith
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4 hours ago, Tim D. said:
Have 195s on mine and have driven 165s and yes the latter is much lighter. Still not sure whether to change when the current boots wear out as I am not particularly effected by the weight of the steering. We did the 10 countries rally on 195s and was pleased with the grip on the mountain hairpins in the wet particularly on the rear with the torque from the supercharger. Not sure whethe the 165s would have been the same?
Tim
Hi Tim
I'm sure if you've got loads more torque from a SC 165's would be err interesting coming out of tight corners, est without an LSD so i def understand the need for a little more rubber on the road.
With an SC and 165's you could recreate onel of those US car chases with loads of tyre smoke, lol.
Cheers Keith
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Hi All
Interesting post this one and i suppose the need (or want) for PAS depends on what tyres everyone has.
If you've gone from 165's to 195 low profiles (or wider) there may be a need for some assistance at low speed.
After all if the TR6 with its big heavy engine had heavy'ish steering on std 165 whats it like with 195's or bigger?
As my car is a long term off road job i have no idea.
Cheers Keith
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Hi Guy's
Thanks for the replies.
Realised that the earthing for the rear ligths is a weak point just wasn't sure if the mega low wattage of the LED's made that worse or not.
But anyway looks like this approach of soldering an earth wire on is the way to go rather than relying on the spring clips for the earth.
An afternoon soldering here we come.
Cheers Keith
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Spit 2.5
One would hope so but there was huge inter company competition and dislike between the brands in late 60's early 70's BMC the BL so there were many occasins where they should have worked together but didn't.
But this is my "Spitfire" headrest internal.
Is it a-la MGB?
Cheers Keith
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Hi Robert
I would agree with the general opinion that they are MGB headrests.
I decided to convert my 1972 seast to headrests so looked around for TR6 ones for ages with no luck.
in the end i went for 70's/80's Spitfire ones, see pic, i found on fleabay. Not expensive and ok condition once i fitted new TR6 foams.
Now they may not be 100% but are at least a very close match and i have a feeling the same headrest may be used for both esp as the TR6 foam fitted. Althought it was a real pain to fit, but i have a feeling they are.
Just got to get the conversion finished.
Cheers Keith
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Hi Rich
As Roger says be careful of standard rattle cans even in the "correct" colour. Depending on how old your paint is it can be miles off.
When i needed a rattle can i took an item (vent flap) to my local wholesale automotive paint factors, they scanned it and the scanner gave them the ingredients to mix the colour then it doesn’t matter if someone cocked the paint code up.
Usually they can supply tin’s, touch ups or rattle cans (1K) and my colour was spot on.
But if it’s a large or a noticeable could well be best left to a professional.
Cheers Keith
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Hi All
Not sure if this is a coincidence but having just changed to LED bulbs my rear lights don't really work unless I fiddle with the bulb holder.
All seemed to work ok on filament bulbs but not so now.
Everything has been cleaned and refurbed not long ago and literally all i've done since is change the bulbs.
So thinking it may be something to do with the current going through the LED's or i just need new holders.
Given i've read about the poor quality of bulb holders any recomendations about who supplies decent holders or a trick to get them to work reliably.
Cheers Keith
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Ian
I had my rear panel and windscreen surround painted as part of a repaint, but don't see why you couldn't tidy it up with rattle cans. Its a small area and i've used them loads in the past on other cars, but practice makes perfect.
However i would be very wary about using 2K rattle cans at home. i looked into this and Yes they are available but with 2K paints, even the aerosols you basically mix a curing agent with the paint to make it go hard. This is done inside the can so its easy. But the curing agen is still an Isocyanate and is extremely toxic if you breath it in. An airfed mask is recomended as ordinary industrial masks are apparently no protection.
But if you do go rattle can buy a good quality one. Often your local automative paint supplier will sell them and i would expect the to be better quality than the orange shop or poundland.
All the best Keith
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Hi Stuart
Thought that was likely.
Of course i'm going to put together a wheel well kit of tools and bits but just wondering did they come with any kind of tool kit and what was it like, just out of interest.
Cheers Keith
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Hi All
Flippin Eck, the things this lock down is making us think of, so unimportant but curious.
Did the TR6 come with any tools?
I'm assuming the obvs like a jack and wheelbrace.
But when i got mine errr, a real long while ago, it came with this. Anything original about it or did my PO just stuff anything in the boot.
Cheers Keith
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Hi All
Yep A C Howells have a very good reputation and I've seen the road they are in a number of times on Car SOS.
But quality rechroming is not cheap.
My problem is that although my bumpers are not 100%, maybe 60% if i'm lucky they are aftermarket abit thin and all ripply.
So i'm not keen on rechroming cheap 90's junk properly.
New bumpers required at some point.
Ideally i'd like to get some original and rechrome them but hens teeth.
Cheers KEithg
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Hi All
Obvs if you like a particular colour and the car needs painting change it as looking round for the right car in the right colour can be very time consuming, although i decided to stay with my original factory colour regardless. But then it was Sapphire blue so looked ok and the name is nice as well
As Glen says there is lots of info on the web from sites like "how many left" which makes me regret selling those 1980's Ford as they are worth a furtune now to things like Bullfire.Net which is a top quality resource if you are going to do work yourself and Ed who is on here and whose site it is is helpful.
Interestingly enough the most popular year for surviving TR6's is 1972, mine, of which there are 532 still registerred (maybe a few in barns) which makes my early 2000's Rover product somewhat rarer as there are now only 92 left.
Oh and here a question for those with detailed knowledge. Some TR6's are listed on the how many left version of the DVLA database as in the 2400 to 2499cc catagory and some are in the 2500 to 2599cc catagory ? The majority about 3000 are in the up to 2499cc, with much less but many as 2500cc. Now given the engine was (always as far as i know) 2498cc why the diff?
Was someone at a dealership just being lazy in the 1970's and putting 2500cc on a form as it was easier than 2498cc? No idea how they submitted paperwork in those days.
Cheers Keith
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Paul
You nicked my bit!!
The expensive one is apparently OE spec and much nicer but i went for the cheap and cheerful version as its only a bit of hose.
It came the other day and its ok but not cut very neatly, so i'll need to tidy that up a bit and test fit it to make sure its long enogh.
Cheers Keith
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Hi Paul
When did you get your hose from DMG as i couldn't get one for that price recently.
I'm assuming we are talking baout 149692, air cleaner to plenum hose.
I tend to look up the part no's on the Rimmers site and then check DMG for the price as they are close and i also buy over the counter. But on this Rimmers were £7.50 and DMG £20.50 showing no stock or £35.28 currently unavailable and they were not able to offer alternatives, so i got one from Rimmers at the same time as my H4 headlamp conversion kit. Fortunatly they some reductions on until last week.
Cheers Keith
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Hi All
Another plus for Neil from me.
My Pi gear did not look to bad but it had been unused for some time, decade+, so i popped it in to Neil and it came back looking spot on, as new.
He's also helped me a couple of issues and i've always found him very helpful.
But i did take some before and after pics.
Cheers Keith
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Hi Andy
On the direct feed fo the fuel pump I was actuality thinking of a Pi car esp one still fitted with a Lucas fuel pump as they tend to be less tolerant of voltage drop, even a small one, that can sometimes be present in a harness, though less common in a new harness one would hope. Not sure if the same is true of a Bosch type pump.
Cheers Keith
Part Wanted
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Guy’s
Bit of help on a part needed.
My 72 has (or should have) the number plate light in the bumper.
Def had one when it arrived but I only seem to have parts of it left.
Now I have the nice shiny chrome bit and one lens but that’s all I can find. So basically I’m short of the gasket, one lens and the stamped bulb holder baseplate. My theory is that when I took it apart all those months years ago the bumper was so mega rusted the baseplate didn’t really exist anymore and one lens got broken or was missing. The pic tells the rust story.
So I need 151954, or some of it.
Now given the price of chrome stuff I’ve got the expensive bit but no-one seems to sell the base plate, although I can get the other bits.
So does anyone have the baseplate for a bumper mounted number plate light or know where I might get one.
No to fussed about the condition as once I’ve got something to work from I’d be hopeful of repairing or refurbing anything.
Cheers Keith