[Camshaft Problems]

Hi Richard

 

I'm going to skim the newer keeper plate doiwn a little and see what that does.

 

The thing i find slightly odd is that all of the parts are the one fitted when i got the engine and the old keeper does the same?

 

But then again when i stripped the engine, ages ago, i didn't check so i've no idea what it was like then.

 

John

 

Due to the position of the bolt holes the keeper will only fit one way, under as you say.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[Camshaft Problems]

Hi All

 

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Firstly can i say i've never rebuilt and engine before.

 

I can see the logic of the end core plug being in too far, pretty sure its ok as the camshaft will go further into the block before stopping with the keeper removed, but just in case im going to replace that core plug again in case i did go further in that i should, its only 50p and a bit of time.

 

I can also see the logic of the distorting keeper and my original has some wear marks. The distortion in the thin part between the bolts is about 2 thou between finger tight (with the cam turning) and torque and the cam being locked?

 

But i have no idea if that is enough to cause the problem.

 

I suppose the other question is how difficult to turn should the cam be when its torqued?

 

I am expecting to be able to spin it with no real force, but when torqued i cannot move it by turning the end of the cam. But if i use a little leverage it will move but not easily.

 

Any practiced engine rebuilders out there have any ideas.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[Camshaft Problems]

Hi All

 

I’m rebuilding my TR6 engine.

 

Nothing fancy all standard spec and It’s the original camshaft.

 

I have one (current) issue. The camshaft is in but when I torque the keeper plate to 20 lb ft it is solid and will not move and there is zero end float.

 

If I slacked the bolts off a little, it spins fine and the float is 5 or 6 thou as measures by a dial gauge.

 

I’ve tried it with or without spring washers, with a new keeper plate or the old one but they make no difference.

 

Engine is on a stand with no head.

 

Any ideas what my next step should be?

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[To Lacquer or not to Lacqer]

Hi All

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

Basically my understanding is that 2k paint started off in car factories in the 1970/80’s and all modern cars and refinishers now use 2k.

 

Painters, even for Classics use 2k and you have to go to a real specialist to get anything else, so mine will be in 2k.

 

But you can have 2k with or without it Lacquer, I’m not sure if the colour layer is different if lacquer is used or if it's just the method of application, but that does not really matter, it’s purely down to the aesthetics.

 

Modern cars (and the examples I’ve seen of my painters work) have a really deep lustrous shine and I’m not sure how well that might sit on a 1972 Blue TR6.

 

So just some thoughts from all you guys (and girls!!) out there about the cars you have, what you’ve seen and how they look with the different finishes, if anyone has noticed the difference!!

 

I can remember having old bangers on the late 80’s (so the start of 2k) and such cars painted with a lacquer looked really shiny and it was referred to as “knacker lacquer”

 

It’s only going to get painted once so I want it to look right.

 

For ref my painter says he is happy to do either it’s just that with a lacquer the shine will be better and perhaps more importantly will need less care so more time to drive and less to polish?

 

Thanks

 

Keith

[Parts Quality, When is it worth the extra?]

Hi All

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

I’ve got a reconditioned Laycock clutch cover and original AP plate (many many rivets) so its basically the ancillary parts I’m now getting, bearing, bearing carrier and slave and master cylinder and lots of other small bits and bobs, some not clutch related, but the big bits are clutch.

 

The part numbers between the suppliers are common (I’m assuming they use original part numbers or at least they are the same as the Moss catalogue) so no difference there. As I said I want to go for the best quality version in all cases. So for example I’m going to get a phosphor bronze bearing carrier, but as I said the cost variation is significant.

 

Revingtons bronze bearing carrier is £65, whereas the Rimmer version is £46 and Manners £45, so more or less 50% more.

 

I don’t mind paying the extra, but knowing supply chains these days it’s highly likely its all made in the far east and it could all come out of the same factory with the difference in price purely down to the profit margins (or buying power) of the various suppliers. But it might not and the quality might be the difference.

 

So Revington say of their item, it’s a “high quality phosphor bronze. A very high quality part with an internal diameter machined to very tight tolerance for a perfect fit.”

 

But who knows, i don't.

 

So its some general thoughts on quality and if anyone knows for a fact that some are made better than others.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[Parts Quality, When is it worth the extra?]

Hi All

 

Just about to order a bunch of parts (mainly clutch related) for my 1972 TR6.

 

But the prices vary significantly.

 

Revington come in about £240 and Rimmers about £170 with Manners £150, also I’m close to Manners so no carriage. Haven’t priced the others but previous experience tells me that Moss and TR Shop will be around the Rimmers and Manners prices.

 

But as some parts are performance critical, (clutches on the 6 are notorious) such as the bearing and carrier, master and slave cylinders, I want the best more or less irrespective of the cost.

 

But I don’t want to spend an extra £70 to £90 for the same quality aftermarket bits.

 

Any thoughts on the various suppliers quality, obviously they will all say they are great. But my car is and always has been a none runner I’ve got no experience of parts not “working” to put me off any one of them.

 

Cheers

 

Keith.

[To Lacquer or not to Lacqer]

Hi All

 

My 1972 TR6 will be painted soon(ish).

 

Body is off the chassis, (yes braced etc) and the underneath (body colour over stonechip) and engine bay will be done then once the body is on the chassis the rest.

 

It will be done in a modern two pack paint, but the big question is whether to use multiple layers of clear lacquer?

 

Obviously this wil give a long lasting shine but will it look wrong?

 

I’d rather drive than polish but it will be an original spec car (mostly).

 

Thoughts?

 

Cheers

 

Keith

 

[Clutch Help]

Roger

 

Thanks for the reply, I've also been speaking to the guys at revington and they confirm a good quality friction plate from other manufactuerers will be ok, the most important bit is the clutch cover and a bronze bearing carrier and a quality bearing will also go along way to making the clutch work as it should.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[Clutch Help]

Hi All,

 

New to posting on the forum and after a bit of help and advice.

 

There is much discussion about the best clutch for a TR6, consensus appear to be the original Laycock units are best with the new Borg and Beck not so good as they are no longer TR6 specific but fit a number of cars/vans.

 

I've managed to get hold of a recon Laycock cover plate, which all looks good with no obvious damage.

 

But I do not have a Laycock clutch plate any idea where I might be able to locate one to buy outright, Revington do them on exchange, but i don't have an old one.

 

Even one that needs reconditioning with the friction material replacing would help, especially if anyone knows someone who can reline the plate in the midlands.

 

 

Many Thanks

 

Keith