Aldpilot
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Posts posted by Aldpilot
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Thanks for everyone’s input. Had an old alternator that was overcharging and had very worn brushes. Changed those and the voltage stabiliser and fitted to the car. Now charging correctly, so looks to have fixed things, but need to go for a drive and will keep a close eye for a while. Thanks again
Mike.
PS oil & ignition warning bulbs now swapped over to be correct.
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Double seal cap. Yes. A new one in 2017. I had a top hose leak recently (small split) so changed it. Not noticed any change in operation since.
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Bottle is the original factory fit. It does not seem to get any water in it when running. All very strange.
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Nice to hear what the correct operation of the overflow bottle is. Whenever I put extra fluid in the bottle (when cold) I find after a good run that the bottle is empty and the radiator is full. I have topped up quite a few times with the same result. So now I run with an empty bottle and whenever I check the radiator, it is always full. Clearly something is not quite right, but with the rad appearing full and no overheating issues (other than in the really hot weather), I have just accepted things. Perhaps someone knows the answer. Mike
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Take care when fitting the passenger side mirror as bad positioning can mean you cannot adjust the view sufficiently to see down the cars body line. I did not know this and utilised one of the existing holes (drilling a second), only to find the best view I can get is of the hedge wizzing past!!! I have flat glass and should probably try convex. You can also get bullet mirrors with substantially better adjustment than others. I know this now. Mike
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Thanks Rob. Bulbs are wrong way round. Now it’s why it’s not charging? Possibly coil given up?
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Thanks guys. Swapped alternator in August after getting one from the Alternator stand at IWE. The previous one overcharged the battery, so new battery purchased as well. On start up as configured, the ignition light goes out quickly, while oil light has a small delay before extinguishing (when all was well). I believed this was as expected while oil pressure built. Still a very good suggestion that bulb holders have been switched. Will look into it and report back when I get to the bottom of things. Thanks again. Mike
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Yes Rob. The drain was only while the oil pressure warning light was illuminated. As soon as the light went out, everything was back to normal. I hate electrics!!!
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Upon start up yesterday the oil light stayed on, but pressure gauge was reading normally with good pressure. A quick look showed ammeter registering a drain and as it was pouring with rain, wipers on and lights meant a big drain. Pulled over after 100 yards to investigate and warning light went out and ammeter returned to normal. Carried on for a 20 min drive to a TRR meeting. At start up to return home, same problem. As Oil pressure was present, I pressed on home and after 15 mins warning light went out again and charging again. If an electrical gremlin, any ideas why oil warning light stays illuminated. Any ideas please. Thanks in advance. Mike
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Thanks guys. The busted one on it now, is different to the N/S and the replacement I got from Conrad is actually the same as the good one, so by changing just one, it will give me a matching pair. Thankfully Peter, the one to change has been off before (not by me) and the bolt is ok to be removed. It’s a job for the long winter nights that will quickly arrive.
Mike
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Looking for any tips to change the o/s trailing arm. Since purchase around 4 years ago I have been running the car with some of the arm missing (small part of the non structural edge has broken away in the past). Got a replacement and can see that it should be possible to either take the bracket holding the arm off, or take the bolt out of the bush to remove just the arm. As I say, anyone got any advice to assist?
Thanks
Mike
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Thanks guys. Seems there is no knowledge of good supplies of repro badges. I have bitten the bullet and got one from Moss and will fit that. My original can go off to Pamella Andrews and once back will be my failsafe to fit if/when the Moss one falls apart. Splitting the atom appears easier than getting a decent repro TR5 badge!!!
Mike
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Is the Moss £60+ TR5 bonnet badge worth getting?
My current repro badge has lasted about 2 years and over the summer (yes we had one), it has started to separate and the beige plastic has shrunk. Now looks awful and needs to be replaced. I have seen the various posts around badges from 2012 onwards and cannot see that there is a definitive place to get replacements. I also have an original that has suffered wear over the years, but refurb will cost between £100-£200. Any pointers gratefully received.
Mike
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Thanks guys.
Nacelle off and a fiddle and I can get it to work. Now intermittent, but with a bit more of a look etc should be back to full health.
Regards
Mike
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Can anyone help on how to find out why my near side indicators have stopped working on my TR5?
Just stopped working yesterday. Cannot see an issue with wiring (but suspect that is the problem) and all 3 different bulbs are ok. Offside units still work.
Thanks. Mike
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Thanks Pete. I now just need to understand "relays"
Mike
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Thanks Kevin.
Do I have to worry about the antiquated wiring when changing to halogen?
We are gradually updating things as much of the 5 was sticking plaster underneath. Solid sticking plaster though.
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Following my alternator overcharging and running with the lights on (for once bright), my offside unit has failed. Both Rimmer and Moss are on back order, so does anybody have one they are prepared to sell?
Alternatively, can anyone recommend the merits of a halogen upgrade (they are in stock)?
Mike
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I have one of these.
Had it 9 months now and feel it is excellent value for money. Rises to 1M and although it still requires some scrambling around underneath, it is head and shoulders better than axle stands. The fact that it is portable and you can pull it out of the garage to work on a car outside is also great. Had my Jaguar Sportbrake on it and it lifted easily.
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Thanks. The current 17ACR does only have 3 terminals, but will check out the way in which the other 2 have been isolated/used. Cannot see any use of a junction box as per the Rimmers kit
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So obvious. Thanks
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Thanks Garry. The current alternator is 17ACR, so suspect regulator built in. I will fit my new alternator, get a battery and see what happens. Just don't want to cook a new battery.
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Does a TR5 have a separate regulator to stop the alternator overcharging the battery? On way back from IWE the ammeter started showing quite a large charge going into the battery. Thinking the battery may have discharged a bit over the weekend, I did not think much of it. When home and opening the bonnet, it showed the battery had started leaking and the sidewalks were bulging. Now disconnected and a new battery is needed (no idea on age of the old one, had car 3 years and on it at purchase). Had an issue with alternator not charging as we were about to set off for IWE, so changed brushes and hey presto charging again. Picked up a new alternator at IWE for when needed, but did not think it would be that quick. So is there a regulator somewhere or is it integral to the alternator.
Thanks
Mike
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+1 for John Ostick. Look at JDO instruments
http://www.jdo1.com/other_services.html
He has just done my speedo and he turns them around in days. OP gauge is £65 plus return postage, which you will need to get by contacting him as you are in Portugal.
Mike
TR4/4A fuel cap lock
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Just received my Locking full cap from Marco. Fits my TR5 really well (took 2 seconds). Nicely made and it will stop horrible people putting things in the tank. Thanks Marco.