Aldpilot
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Posts posted by Aldpilot
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Hi folks. I bit the bullet and ended up paying £91.80 for a twin cable. It is now fitted and working. Did it last week before the really cold weather hit. Chris, thanks for the info and perhaps I will have a go at repairing the old set up. I will wait until warmer weather though. Apparently a Humber Sceptre has a twin choke cable too, but I didn’t manage to find one of those. Another job done. Thanks for all your comments/ideas.
Mike
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Thanks Andrew. That was the answer and if only I had thought of it before taking it apart. Never mind, it keeps me busy.
Mike
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Thanks guys.
I have taken the old twin cable off (boy it was fiddly to remove) and the cable to the Metering Unit had snapped at the knob end. I was ahead of everyone’s comments on the cost saving, by using a single cable arrangement to the MU. Thanks for the idea of fitting a stand alone cable for fast idle. Not anal enough to want originality (well not at £100), although I do try to keep as much as possible along standard lines. Whatever I do, I am not looking forward to the job of reattaching cables and feeding through the bulk head. All part of the fun of our cars.
Mike
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The galling part about it is a single throttle cable is only £10.36. I am stuck having to pay £90. So be it.
Mike
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Why are replacement choke cables so expensive? I think I need a new one as the cable to the MU is not operating and has come adrift from the cockpit knob. Before I take it apart to see if I can fix it, I thought get a new one, in case that is the easy answer. Rimmers £102, Moss £86 but out of stock and Robsport £90.
Anyone know if there are any cheaper options out there or do I just have to bite the bullet and pay up?
Mike
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For the last 9 months the overdrive on my TR5 has been getting more and more inconsistent. It did not always engage when the column switch was thrown, but could engage at any time later and stayed in once set. It always disengaged when asked. As usual with these types of intermittent issues, I got various suggestions (but never the answer), with the most prolific being “is the gearbox oil level low?”
After checking the power supply from the switch to the solenoid, there was nothing else for it but to remove the Gbox tunnel to get a good look. It was at this point that the overdrive inhibiting switch became visible. When I removed it the spring loaded round end looked worn. A call to Pete at Overdrive Supplies suggested swapping the switch with the reversing light switch (they are identical). This switch did not look worn and Eureka it fixed a long standing and annoying problem. Posted here to highlight something that no one had suggested to me. I hope it will help someone else in the future.
Photo of the worn unit below. Part No BAU1074A from Rimmers at £7.44
Mike
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I occasionally have a similar issue when the throttle stop gets caught under my rubber over mat. Frightened the @#£& out of me the first time it happened. I now make sure the mat is pushed well into the footwell, but it has caught up once more when the mat moves.
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I replaced the front seal on my TR5 diff only yesterday. I tried to get a leather replacement, but an order for one from both Rimmer and Moss resulted in them sending rubber (with no comment why). At about £4 each I didn’t return them, but a phone call revealed they didn’t have leather in stock or knew when or if any would be delivered. They both promote the Rubber as better seals. Diff not back in the car yet, but I hope I don’t have the same problem as Andy. What’s best guys, Leather or Rubber?
Mike
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Thanks Alan.
It’s not damage to the locking pins I want to protect, but the constant rattle I get from my pins when the hood is down and I don’t have the cover on......and yes I can hear it over the exhaust note.
Mike
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Matt,
I have done a few foreign trips and other than little minor issues that can be sorted, it is amazing how well things go. However, I had a stub axle fail on the autoroute in France on the way to last year’s LeMan Classic. Being a 5 day trip did not give time to get spares and fit them. My salvation was breakdown cover with DAS through my TRR insurance. The best £40 for a years cover I have ever spent. Yes you deal with call centre staff who are used to breakdowns where the caller has no idea what’s wrong and use a script to talk to you, but with perseverance and a laid back approach, you get a good service. My car was returned on a transporter 10 days later and I was able to jump in a fellow members car to get back to England.
Don’t worry too much about what might go wrong and just ensure you have recovery if all else fails.
Mike
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Thanks Rob.
I have a rubber one which I ordered in error, thinking it was a leather seal. How did I Cock that up? I was surprised not to get any comments, so far, so thank you for taking the time to reply. I think I will get a leather one and give that a go, making sure I give it a good soak before fitting, as you suggest.
Mike
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Needing to replace my front seal on my TR5 differential, I see I have a choice of leather or rubber. Both similar prices, so what’s the best? Anyone got any views please.
Thanks
Mike
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Hi Phil.
I too have a similar noise and have had for the last couple of years on my TR5. Tappets were adjusted a week ago and although a couple were a bit tight the noise remains. I am working on sorting a diff leak and G/box leak with a non functioning overdrive at the moment, so my clicking/tapping noise is further down the to do list.
Fiddling with things seems to be the norm with these lovely cars, but going out for a driving blast just puts a smile on my face, whenever I go out. The forum is a great place to get advice, sometimes the guys contradict each other a bit, but all have much more knowledge of the cars than me and are a great help. If I find out what is causing my noise, I will post here. Good luck sorting it.
Mike
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I can recommend Marco’s product. I got one in February this year and it is a great addition for my car. If only my diff was not leaking!!
Mike
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Thanks John/Roger. Unfortunately, I have run the car with the breather clear for the last 6 months and it is still leaking (slowly getting worse). I feared changing the seal in situ would be a pain. Was proposing disconnecting drive shaft and removing back box of exhaust to give access. Think I have now found seal on Moss site, part no. 140337. If Diff has to come out I would want to recon it and change the side seals too. Hopefully it can be sorted without taking it out completely. Cleaned it up today, topped up with oil and went for a 30min blast and photo below is after I got back.
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Having had my TR5 undersealed at Rustbusters this year, I didn’t check the free movement of the diff relief valve (I know it’s just a split pin) and it was clogged up and this has meant the front seal in the diff is now leaking. It’s not so bad that it stops me using the car, but I want to get this sorted this winter. Firstly I need to know what the seal/gasket code is to order a new one and then any fitting tips from those in the know on this forum. Thanks.
Mike
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Thanks guys. I spoke to Revingtons, but they only have uprated hinges fabricated for TR2’s & 3’s. They did supply me a set of standard hinges for my 5, telling me they have not had an issue with returns, but did seem to think some people may have had problems. As already posted, it’s important to fit correctly handed (left & right) and not overtighten. Thanks Stuart, I used a suitable loctite and all seems ok for the time being. Fingers crossed.
Mike
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Thanks Roger, your suggestion might be the only option. Surely I cannot be the only person to have this issue, or perhaps I have just been unlucky.
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Can anyone recommend good quality boot hinges for my TR5? This morning the screw in section just pulled straight out of the hinge assembly, stripping the thread. Exactly the same thing happened about 6 months ago and the replacements (Rimmers or Moss) just do not seem up to the job. One of my local group has mentioned Revingtons doing uprated hinges in the past for TR3’s, so I will give them a ring tomorrow, but wanted to ask for any guidance here first.
Mike
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If you want bullet, then you need ones that adjust or the near side just gives you a great view of the hedges rushing past. I put up with that for 18 months and then found these.
I have had them on my 5 for the last 6 months and they are better than I expected. Probably not as good as the larger ones others recommend, but I am happy.
Mike
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Thanks guys.
As Roger sent me a really useful link to someone who probably supplies the part and you have offered one FOC Rodderss, I will take you up on your very kind offer. I will pm you to sort.
Mike
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Looking through the usual suppliers (Moss, Rimmer etc) it looks like the trip reset cable (part No 159738) is no longer available. Does anyone have one I can purchase please. Thanks
Mike
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Thanks guys. Wire purchased and gauge now installed.
Mike
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Having taken my dash apart, I wanted to reposition my dials, but the wires to my Ammeter dont quite reach to the position I want it (thats probably why the PO sited it where it Is). I need to get a longer pice of wiring, but know it is important to fit an adequate gauge wire. What should it be?
Thanks in advance.
Mike
Revotec fan fitting
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
I am looking for advise on how to remove the bolt holding the fan extension to the crankshaft. I cannot seem to prevent the engine turning over as I try to undo the bolt. What’s the magic answer?
Hopefully someone can guide me.
Mike