Aldpilot
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Posts posted by Aldpilot
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Brilliant Wayne.
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Thanks Folks
Having looked at everything, I think I will get a professional to do the job. A shame, as I would enjoy having a go, but it could easily turn into a costly mistake, if I screwed it up. I am already resigned to a pretty big labour bill. Thank goodness the parts will be negligible.
Thanks again for such helpful replies
Mike
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Thanks Hamish. Just about to go out for a breakfast blast in the TR5 (chilly, but dry here in Bedfordshire), so will view everything this afternoon. Suspect I will get a professional to do the work if it’s a box out job.
Really useful reply thanks.Mike
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Hi Roger. I think I have a similar leak where the O/D joined the G/box. I do quite a bit of mechanical stuff on my car, but have always stopped short of anything needing engine or gearbox parts removal. How easy was the seal replacement job? How long did it take and can you give me any pointers to do the job? I do have a 1m lift, so it’s not a job I would tackle on axle stands. Thanks in advance.
Mike
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Well guys, you certainly gave me lots of places to look, but Stuart got it in one. The front offside mounting on the wheel arch was where the part came from. The rest of the body mountings were tight, so there was not much movement for the gap it left, but I suspect it would be different when moving. I have now replaced it with rubber washers both side of the shim and all seems well. Thanks again for the guidance.
Mike
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Thanks Stuart. I now know where to look.
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I was out for a drive in my TR5 this morning and after turning a corner I heard a tinkling sound underneath me and saw a washer/shim like item bouncing down the road behind me. Can anyone give me any clue what or where it might have come from. I didn’t notice any change in driving afterwards and when I picked it up it was quite hot. Pound coin to give perspective of size. Thanks
Mike
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Was the car a “Hole in one” prize???
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Having driven my TR5 with a misbehaving overdrive for a year (worked occasionally and 20% of the time at best), I can say get an overdrive. It will make your enjoyment of driving the car so much more rewarding.
Hope you enjoy your new toy.
Mike
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All outlets have similar prices. At best you could save a tenner by shopping around. I replaced mine a year ago and the darn thing has a tendency to jam. It seems the dual cable is the reason for the price, but Roger recommends using your old one to make up yourself from cables purchased from a bike shop. Most people just fit a single cable from the MU and kick in a bit of throttle to get it started.
Mike
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Brilliant, many thanks Richard
Mike
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Does anyone know where I can get some of the brackets in the photo attached?
Thanks
Mike
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Hi Adrian.
Unless Wayne can help, I think you have to up load in chronological order. I took on this role for Lea Valley Group (take a look at our gallery) and quickly found out things needed careful planning. Once you get everything on there, the adding of new pictures as you get them, becomes easy. I also quickly found out there was a file size restriction (Wayne can increase this for you, if it is still there after the recent website updates). Don’t manage the pictures down in size too much, or the viewing becomes poor. I found it was trial and error, but I seem to have the knack now. PM me if you wanted to chat it through.
Mike
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More great advice, thank you. I am about to ring Moss and get enough nuts to fit to all 4 wheels (their email to me says they are running on a skeleton staff, but open for mail order). If I can get to speak to someone I will check the nuts are chamfered on both sided, but just want to ask if The Moss product has been found to be of an acceptable quality?
This thread has been invaluable and shows how a straightforward question and photos, turns into a full analysis of what I need to do, right down to taking care to fit the nuts diligently (and all in 24 hours). Thank you Forumites.
Mike
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Wow guys, you all started typing as I was also replying. There doesn’t seem to be any fouling, but I will source some like suggested.
Thanks all
Mike
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Mine do have a tapered fitment, but only on one side Peter. I cannot show a photo without taking one off, but all wheels have the same ones.
Thanks
Mike
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Thanks Roger. I have put it all back together and no play now seen. Until I can go for a drive, I won’t know if it works loose at all. Having had an adapter come loose about 4 years ago, I put a dab of loctite on the nuts when I do them up. At least I now know 65 lb ft is the torque to use.
George, there was no change in the movement wherever the wheel is orientated.
We cannot see our Dutch TRip proceeding to visit the Dutch National Triumph Day.Thanks guys
Mike
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Thanks Roger.
I understand all you have said and believe the adapter should pull up tight with the nuts done up properly. Anyone any idea what torque they should be?
I don’t think the studs are too long as same all round and only one wheel has the problem. Could the studs have worn or allow the adapter to move because the holes have worn bigger? The adapter was new within the last year (all 4 replaced for general maintenance).
The movement is solely front and back (just wheel roll).I am going to put back on an old adapter (making sure the correct side) and see if that still gives the problem. I will just wait and see if anyone can give me the correct torque setting.
Thanks for your thoughts. As always very helpful.
Mike
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When up on a ramp and with the h/brake on, my o/s rear wheel has some movement forward and back. I run wires and initially though perhaps the splines were worn. Swapping wheels, does not move the problem and so I have taken the hub off, but think I have found the problem. 2 of the studs have a small amount of play. How do I sort this? Thanks in advance.
Mike
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+1 for trying the inhibitor switch. I had an intermittent problem for over a year and once I bit the bullet and took the gbox tunnel out and swapped the reversing light switch and the o/drive inhibitor (they are the same, with both attached to the gbox under the tunnel) the problem was found. A new switch for under a tenner sorted it and I have had no problems for 2 years now (that’s done it).
Mike
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Just a single extra wing mirror on the o/side. The car is exactly as purchased from the one lady owner (except we have fixed the non operating overdrive). It has only done 55,000 miles, so needs a good bit of use over the Summer, before we attempt the Round Britain in October. Hopefully we don’t break anything and it proves reliable. We didn’t fancy doing the TRip in a TR5 and wanted a bit more space. Sorry to hijack the thread, but as said earlier, certain cars look good in yellow and Paul’s TR6 looks great as does our Sprint.
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All sorted today and my nice new Revotec fan is fitted and working. Tried the impact gun (with a long extension), but that didn’t shift it (that surprised me). Mick’s idea of the large Stilson on the stubb extension and a long breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt worked in the end. It was done as a 2 man job, with one holding the Stilson and the other on the breaker bar. The Stilson was a bit big to get set against anything substantial enough, so was hand held by my assistant. It all worked a treat. I would think that should work for you Dave McD if the buzz gun doesn’t do it.
Thanks to everyone for your ideas and help.
Mike
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Thanks guys. A few things to try. I will have to remove the grill to get my Clarke impact wrench in, but that might be the way forward if Micks Stilson idea doesn’t work. The fan is off, but the fan extension needs removal Peter, to give room for the Revotec fan to fit on a TR5. I will get there in the end.
Mike
Experience with upgraded rear damper links?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Steve
I was having failures of the ball on the links on my TR5 so got a set of upgrades from CDD. They were fitted over a year ago and both sides are still OK. Others will no doubt have views soon.
Mike