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Posts posted by grumpy2
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There will be wiser people than me along I'm sure but I bought mine just this summer and looked at 5-6 before buying my car.
What surprised me was how differently they each drove. So for what it's worth my single piece of advice would be to drive as many as you can so you get a feel for the car. Interesting the worse car I drove belonged to a long standing TR Register member who had owned the car for many years. I guess just got used to how poorly it actually drove
happy hunting
I guess some info about price range, usage and expectation might be of help
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It's a scam, I had my ebay account compromised by this fella who used my id to try and sell a tractor! It'll all get pulled soon and spring up again soon with another ID
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And the stag.......
.?????
More confused than ever now
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Interesting and thanks for the comments, they are the first comments I've heard on here against upgrading (downgrading?) to telescopics. My lever arms seem to be working ok but the rear end is so soft compared to previously owned MBGs and Stags I'm interested in the adjustability that the telescopic conversion will provide
More than happy to listen to wiser folk than I though, TR6s are relatively new to me, not interested in a go kart racer just something a little more confident round the twisty bits
Gary
Ps thanks for the welcome, I think I'll be here for a while!
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Had a great day at the NEC today, finally signed to the register properly so soon to be a full member
Spent a good time talking to the chap on the TRGB stand any I'm thinking of their rear telescopic conversion and large bore single exhaust (possibly with their tubular manifold)
Any experience with these parts and opinions would be most welcome
Cheers all
Gary
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Hope you don't mind me asking but which one did you go for? I'm thinking of fitting one as part of my winter programme of improvements.
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starting to make my winter list and thinking now about seats. I currently have cloth MX5 seats that are very comfy but don't look too original.
I've seen Paul somethings leather MX5 seats and they look terrific but at £425 plus postage are a tad expensive. in black with red piping these would look great in my TR
I'm wondering about reupholstering my genuine seats with new foams and webbing but I'm a little confused. I've seen Paddocks do a foam kit for £90 plus £12.50 for the webbing. so thats about £250 all in, I'm local so no postage. Revington advertise a kit for £190 plus postage but don't say whats included, anyone with experience?
I've remade Stag and MG seats in the past, anyone done TR6 seats have any pointers?
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Slow here too. Not on super fast yet, but slower than most other sites
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Thanks gents
Gas struts do make a little difference as the gas gives an amount of additional springing as it were. Really noticeable and frequently reported in stags where the ride height can increase by as much as 2 inches. Try compressing a gas strut -you'll notice it's springing effect
Interesting comments about the lever arms
Where can I find a comparison of different types of strut brackets?
Cheers
Gary
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thinking about making some improvements now the nights are drawing in. One think I've been thinking about is a rear telescopic conversion. I've seen two sets that bolt only to the chassis. One from TR Bits that uses Spax at £285 and another from TR Shop London using KYB at £144.
does anyone have experience of changing from lever arms to either of these kits?
do the KYB gas struts make the rear even higher (my car already sits a little high and on my stag KYBs increased the height by about an inch)
is there a significant improvement after fitting 'proper' dampers (very noticeable improvement on my MGBs also with lever arms as standard)
thanks
Gary
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Ok thanks to the above suggestions and a bit of thinking I've had a look over the last couple of evenings and found a few issues
The metering cable was very loose and didn't pull anywhere near to full travel. Fixed
The fast idle cam cable was tightly adjusted, readjusted to give approx +300 rpm at half choke
Tappets correctly adjusted, they were all over the place from 20 thou to 6 thou
Hoses and flame trap all changed as the original had gone hard and were leaking vapour
Started after about 3 seconds of cranking, so I think that's a possible result with a bonus of quieter running
Hot idle was 1000rpm on electronic gauge, adjusted to 900rpm
Thanks again
Gary
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thanks again gents, I like the idea of disconnecting the butterfly cable, might give that a try
also, I'm cranking for 20 - 30 seconds before it fires (not in one go though, about 10 second bursts), which I think is excessive compared to any classic I've owned
tyre size is 195/65/15
Gary
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Thanks for the replies chaps
Wheel size irrelevant as the measurement is from hub centre to arch but I see how a lower profile could produce a bigger tyre to arch gap.
It's an injection car with the choke cable to both metering unit and fast idle cam
I'm well used to old cars and carbs, stag with stromburgs and mg with sus. This is more than just a couple of extra cranks probably around 20-30 seconds of cranking
Sorry for any confusion caused by lack of clarity in my first question.
Timing correct as per manual, no pinking under load or acceleration. Plugs and air filter all nice and clean. Plugs light brown after prolonged run as they should be, tailpipe not excessively sooty. Engine a little tappety but not excessively
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Had a lovely drive in the tr this morning but it was a pig to start. Took several attempts before it caught and then ran on what seemed like four for about 5 seconds. Ran perfectly after that. It's not been started for about two weeks. My starting procedure, ignition on and wait for pump to prime (4-5 seconds until the note changes). Full choke and crank. Looked at the choke cable to the metering unit as I think it's fuel related and this seems slack. On full choke the metering lever can still be moved another 10mm or so.
Second thing; warm idle is about 1000rpm, is it worth trying to get this to around 800rpm, if so I'm I correct thinking the idle speed is controlled by the large knurled screw attached to the front butterfly assembly?
Third, my car looks to be higher than others I've seen and I don't know why. Distance from wheel centre to wheel arch is 370mm front and 400mm rear. How does this compare
Thanks in advance, still very much enjoying the car
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Renovo make a full range of products including a hood cleaner, I've used them all with great success over the years and the cleaner will certainly remove the green algae if it is scrubbed on.
One word of caution though the remove products seem to be incompatible with similar products made by autoglym and maguires with several nasty reports on the z4 owners forum.
Hope that helps
Ps it's a three day job minimum. One to clean, one to recolour and one to proof
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Many thanks to all the members of the North Wales group who made me so welcome today, I thoroughly enjoyed the run to Llyn Brenyg and only wish I could have stayed longer (particularly as I got lost on the way home)
Special thanks to Phil who encouraged me to come along and gave me instructions on how to get home- just wish I'd followed them correctly
Thanks Folks
Gary
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Just a quickie to say thanks, clips fitted tonight and then out for a nice late summer evening jaunt
NO Rattles, wow!
most enjoyable drive in my new toy so far, so much so a nice celebratory Malt is in order later
thanks again
Gary
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Arrived today and now sitting with my z4 and mini in the bookshelf
Many thanks
How good is the heater?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I use my car during the winter, if there's no salt on the road, often with the roof down!
Mad I know, but my heater seems quite weak and I'm looking to see if I can get some more umph from it
How good should the heater be! And are there any tips and trick I can emply to improve performance
Many thanks in advance
Gary