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Everything posted by grumpy2

  1. i read all the things you have tried but not the simple suggestion I made of moving the plug leads around by 180 degrees. takes 30 seconds to do, a minute to check then 30 seconds to put back if necessary. got to be worth a try for 2 minutes work
  2. not tried changing the plug leads yet? 180 degrees out being suggested??. takes 2 minutes to try
  3. just a daft one to try but out worked for me after rebuilding a rover V8. try moving the plug leads 180 degrees in the dissy cap. just take each lead and move it to the opposite position, If it doesn't work put them back where they are now. Gary
  4. well theres' nothing like consensus is there? thanks for the opinions above, everything from just use them to bin them! Mind you, Alan, I'm not sure which you are recommending I put in the bin or why. Roger, you are of course correct I don't know the provenance of my 'spare' hubs any more than I know the provenance of the hubs on my car. I do know the ones on the car are well worn and need replacing though. Nigel, I think your option 1 looks favourite. At least if they are not suitable then I can buy recon or new ones at a later date. I guess I'll just bung them on with the grease
  5. well I think its time to do the rear hubs as I can feel the play and theres about 2mm movement at the rims. I've got a couple of good used hubs as replacements but I'd like to open them up and re-grease the bearings before fitting. I guess I need a fancy hub puller (which I've not got) but other than that is there anything else I should think about? I may do UJs at the same time and I'll probably do both sides. ps anyone local have a hub puller I can borrow please? thanks Gary
  6. heres what I did.... set the throttle cable to give an idle speed of around 1500rpm. then use the airflow meter tao give the same reading across all three sets of butterflies by adjusting the throttle linkages. this is fiddly and took me about half an hour. hot work and lots of cross checking as adjusting one effects the others. once i had the same airflow at 1500rpm I reset the throttle cable to allow the butterflies to fully close and adjusted the idle speed to 8oorpm with the air bled screw made a huge difference and totally eliminated the rough running i was experiencing a low spee
  7. Yikes! £££ - sorry hope you get it sorted
  8. grumpy2

    Door hinge

    checked the new and old one visually and by measurement. looks identical and measurements within 0.5 mm I'm happy with that so I'll fit it and see what happens then
  9. grumpy2

    Door hinge

    Hmmmm Bought one but you lot have put me off. I'll do a comparison later Looked at tr shops website - where are the prices?
  10. grumpy2

    Door hinge

    Yep. James paddock. Based in Chester, about a 3 mile detour off my 15 mile commute home
  11. grumpy2

    Door hinge

    Hmmmmm £15 from paddocks. Think I'll see if they have any tomorrow on the way home from work.
  12. grumpy2

    Door hinge

    I've got the pin out and the pin isn't worn but the hole is Tried repining mg hinges with some success. Over bore the hole and turn a pin to match. Blob of weld and away. What do you think?
  13. grumpy2

    Door hinge

    Well I've got droopy door and a worn hinge. The door rises and falls about half an inch at the handle end. Door off easily enough and it's the bottom hinge that's very worn. Is it worth trying to re-pin it or just buy a new one Thanks
  14. I part own one (shared the outlay with a pal) and yes it's great. Much bigger than it looks in the pics so make sure you have somewhere to keep it when not in use. Also you'll need a decent drill to get it to lift with a car on. Your simple battery type will not do, my dewalt li-ion isn't up to the task.
  15. Didn't know they were user serviceable. Hmmmm And MR Ferguson will sell them outright?
  16. Mine takes quite a bit of cranking before it fires if it's been standing more than a couple of days. I put it down to the injectors leaking back and having to crank the metering unit to send fuel back to the injectors. I find using a slight touch on the accelerator pedal helps a little. If you're really struggling try a squirt of easy start into the plenum before cranking. Use sparingly and only to check the car actually runs ok once started. Gary
  17. Two, maybe 3 problems. The rear flexi pipe was blocked, root cause of problem. Changed the pipe, flexi and slave just in case. Attempting to bleed the air out clearly damaged the MC. Changing the MC allowed more air in front and rear which 'mechanic' managed to remove enough to pass MOT after changing the rear shoes. The 'trapped' air was in the front not the rear.
  18. Graeme spent the second half of the afternoon doing just that. Hadn't used my easibleed as the MC lid is too big. So I adapted the one from the old MC and decided to pump a litre of fresh fluid through the system. No bubbles came out of the rear cylinders BUT....... after about 15 seconds a single huge bubble came from the front near side, then nothing more. No bubbles from the offside. The pedal now is strong and biting point where it should be, travel nice and short. Result thanks for all the advice and pointers, ready for 'drive it day' next weekend now, phew. Gary
  19. I only say rear as the front hasn't been touched so should be the same as before. I would say the the efficiency of the brakes is about the same as before but the pedal travel is too long.
  20. Rubbish. No different. Brakes work ok but pedal travel too long. First press very long second press shorter but still too long. More fiddling I think. Here a theory. If there rear shoes are significantly out of adjustment the first press pushes the piston out to make contact with the drum. A rapid second press doesn't give the fluid enough time to return to the MC so is a shallower press on the pedal. Waiting anything over 10 seconds and the travel is long again as the fluid has returned to the MC. Brakes work well as there's no air in the system. Could a similar effect happen with
  21. Had a fiddle tonight (wild Saturday night here) with minimal improvement. Brakes well adjusted, one notch to locked, power is good, pulls up straight and true. Fast stop and and I don't think there's any reduction in effectiveness (well they did pass the MOT yesterday) but the pedal travel is still long Trying the pressed pedal thing overnight but with little optimism So in my head I have 4 thoughts, leave it and get used to it, put new seals in the old MC and put it back on, buy another new one and possibly return the old new one as faulty, go back to paddocks and see what they
  22. Hi. I don't think the air is in the pipes with the fluid. I think it's like the cylinders have a lot of travel before the shoes touch the drums. I'll have a fiddle later.
  23. Thanks, I'll give that a try and if not then return to current setting, it does feel like cylinders pushing against air! Thanks
  24. Old foot pumping method Have to say that I'm cautious that the 'feel' is very different with more pedal travel that earlier. Pedal firm and brakes obviously good but the pedal difference may simply be due to the new master cylinder.
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