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Posts posted by grumpy2
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Mine has a fly off handbrake, something I intend to change in the coming months, may well do some of the suggestions above at the same time. Where does the pivot point need moving to to get greater leverage?
Thanks
Gary
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Getting the mini set up for the annual wirral to llandudno run on Sunday.
Doing the run on Sunday
Hopefully making the movie Sunday night!
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thats a proper bit of engineering there, within my capabilities but I'd prefer to do something like that on a 'spare' set up not the one I was using. perhaps I'll have a look for a used set of throttle bodies. May also have a check for spindle wear but in my experience this has usually shown itself as inconsistent idling
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so can I surmise the above as lumpy running on light throttle is a characteristic of the CP injection but it can be minimised by correct throttle body balancing, and that this is similar in principle to balancing carbs.??
cheers
sort of hoping that this was the answer as the car runs so well otherwise and I've only noticed the lumpiness today with the oldies
Gary
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It's never liked cruising at 30 in 4th which is 1500 rpm but not quite the same running feeling. Definitely worse today but not driven under these conditions before. Lots of 10-20 mph light throttle driving.
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What's that?, same as balancing carbs? And how's it done? Same again?.
Thanks
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Went on a very nice organised run with one of my clubs today. Lots of very old cars (1930s) etc. trouble with the oldies is that they drive slowly and keeping such a slow place wasn't easy for my TR. At 1500rpm it's quite rough almost misfiring type of running yet at idle and above 1700 it's excellent. Also when not with the oldies, acceleration is smooth and strong from 1000 all the way through.
Any ideas chaps?
Thanks
Gary.
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took advantage of the warmer weather to have a top down blast and try out the changes I've made to the car over the past couple of weeks.
The twin sports exhaust makes a fantastic noise especially when accelerating through local villages, not too noisy but quite a raspy sound
The telescopic rear shocks are a significant improvement in my opinion, set on the soft side the rear seems much better controlled and planted
The seats sold to me by a fellow forum member have been fitted and removed (more details to follow later), suffice to say they were a bad buy
The heater seems no better with the flap up or down, still no airflow to the windscreen so I will have to investigate further in the coming weeks
The old CH changer, Radio has been replaced with a single CD player with less controls so is much easier to control
On balance a very happy new years day so far
Gary
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Spent a happy afternoon making up a set brackets and hangers using exhaust bobbins and steel bar. All loosely fitted ready to remove seal and refit tomorrow or Monday.
Happy days hopefully
Thanks for the info folks
Gary
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No time to wait for shops to open and postal deliveries. I want the car up and running before new year and back to work!
Cheers
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Don't suppose anyone has dimensions of the bracket? Not a massive problem if not but would give me a starting point other than a piece of cardboard. Thanks
Gary
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Photo is great thanks
Yep I have an overdrive a type? J type? No idea it's a very early 72 CP car
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Spent a happy hour yesterday trial fitting the new exhaust, have to break for the festivities but in case anyone has a spare minute thought I post a question
Everything has gone on swimmingly except for one bracket
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID600071
Part 17 in this diagram is missing from my car ( ie I don't have one on the exhaust I removed)
I've fitted this system
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID600077
And it has the same brackets for part 17 to attach to
So here's where I have a query. I can make bracket 17 but where does it attach to on the car?
Cheers, merry Christmas.
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Tried fitting seats - not happening
Tried fitting telescopic dampers - not happening
Tried fitting new exhaust - lifted the car so high I can't open the garage door anymore and now need access to the boot.
Better planning needed next weekend!
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heres my guess
the rectangular black rubber connects to the rear silences bracket. the right angle goes through the boot floor and the rubber hanger. The other 4 parts help to trap the rubber hanger. The round rubbers make a grommet in the boot floor.
If I'm right it all seems a bit Heath Robinson
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How hot wast the coil? Had similar experience with MGB and Stag. Both overheated coils.
Just a thought
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didn't intend this to turn into another 'which is best' thread, I did that some months ago and found little consensus other than the type A or 1 is the worse.
I chose the kit I have because I have 195 tyres and want a fraction of extra clearance, also the balance of advice I received earlier suggested this was the best setup, although also the most complicated.
I have some specific areas of interest...
does the tank have to be removed?, if not how were the holes located and drilled?
what should I paint the brackets with before fitting?, or after??
what initial setting on the dampers, hard, soft or middle?
cheers
Gary
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Yep is the moss kit type 3 or c, with 6 pieces that go through the boot
Not really looking forward to the drilling through bodywork but I believe other members consider the kit to be the best one on offer
The fitting instructions are a bit odd though so I'm just looking for experiences
Cheers
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Hi anyone fitted the kit with any advice to offer before I start the job next week
thanks in advance
gary
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I don't have a hard top, with the roof down and the blower on speed 1 there's almost nothing coming out of the dash vents and very little coming from under the dash. With the soft top up the blower can't demist the windscreen even in position 2. It's a CP car with the flap (haven't tried it with the flap open yet)
thanks
Gary
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I've used a small ebac dehumidifier in my single wall double door garage for about 15 years. it goes on in November and off in April and I've found it very effective. No rusty tools, no damp paper and even wet cars dry out overnight.
Gary
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ooohhhh. dopey me
I might have some insight into quantum mechanics, relativity and string theory but obviously levers are way beyond me!!!
thanks for the heads up chaps, I'll give the lever a tug and see if the heat flows!
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Remember to open the bonnet vent. The standard heater isn't great in recirculate mode.
is that the flap in front of the windscreen? how does it open? mines closed and there is very little airflow without the blower on high
Handbrake improvers
in TR6 Forum
Posted
So the aim is to increase the movement of the lever and increase the force it exerts on the cable, hence the rear drums? I'll give it a try. Cheers