grumpy2
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Posts posted by grumpy2
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my accelerator is really heavy and a bit notchy, makes feathering a bit awkward. Not a massive problem but could I think be improved. So I had a look. I seem to have lots of springs doing different things
this is my spring arrangement. Each throttle body has a return hair spring, the accelerator cable arm has one big spring underneath and two smaller ones pulling up. It all works fine and the revs drop to a nice smooth 800rpm at idle, or at least they did..
In an attempt to lighten the pedal I removed the two upwards pulling springs and everything worked perfectly until the engine got really warm after about 20 miles. Gradually the idle speed got higher and higher to about 1800rpm. popped the springs back on and idle back to normal.
investigating tonight and it seems that without the upwards springs the butterflies don't close all the way and with them they do.
So after my longwinded description I guess I'd like to know if this is correct and is it possible to get the correct closing with a lighter pedal?
72, PI, CP engine.
Thanks
Gary
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ebay listing has ended.??
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Matt,
The airbrush in the kit is matched to the thick leather dye and doesn't work in normal airbrushes. I tried using my badger airbrush with no success whatsoever.
Gary
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which spray gun? do you mean the one in the kit?
if you do you've welcome to borrow mine if it helps
Gary
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using this kit
http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Colourant_Kit.php
used it before on a riley elf and was please with the results. takes about 3 hours to do each seats but most of that time is waiting for the various stages to dry
gary
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Before
After
Happy
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That's the problem! Finding a place that knows how to do it & has the correct adapters (hardly anybody)!
Balancing on the car needs no adapters. I found a place n chester via yellow pages. They just said on car balancing. Part of a chain called central tyres. Been there for years.
Worth trying
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Find a place that will balance them on the car. I did that with my old MGB and the difference was astonishing.
Gary
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How does the car drive at low revs? Ie will it hold steady at 30mph in 4th (is that abou 50kmph?). If not then definayely start by checking the air flow through the butterflies at idle and light throttle.
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I've tried using a vacuum pump on a completely empty system with very poor results. A combination of Ezibleed and good old fashioned pedal pumping eventually did the trick.
Gary
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Is there supposed to be a picture on post 1?
Ready your thread about travelling to see a car 1000km away. That must have cost a fair bit in wasted fuel time and hotel bill.
I guess you either have to accept time and money wasters until you find the car you want or lower your standards to some degree and Improve what you find.
Either way good luck with your search
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Had this as an advisory on my last mot. I've looked into the procedure and whilst removal of the hub is straight forward enough separating the hub to replace the bearings seems near impossible on a DIY basis. Looks like exchange hubs are the only answer at about £110 each side from paddocks. ( not sure if they're any good though). I'll wait until the winter and do it as part of a full suspension rebuild. Unless anyone knows a way to mimic the press at home.
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If I understund you correctly then I had a similar problem with mine. Butterflies opening at slightly different times and poor light throttle running. I bought one of these....
http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4654
And used it to get the same airflow through each throttle body at 1500rpm. Made an amazing difference to the drivability of the car. Easy to adjust by slowly turning the butterfly connector rods, they have a locknut and slotted head so are meant to be adjustable.
Took less than half an hour
Gary
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not strictly TR related but I'm doing the London to Brighton run in my old mini
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better pic of mine, anthracite with polished rim
Gary
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Minilites
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Tim,
The MGOC branch that I ran for 12 years was, like most MGOC groups, not into competition events and long distance driving. Rather we did lots of shows and picnic runs. I think because there are so many MG owners ( we had 40-60 regular attenders) they are able to remain insular and not look outside their immediate circle. This is also the case with parts there's so much availability and such a large demand that nothing was ever 'free' yet most things were relatively cheap.
Gary
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Once the test station had fixed its computer the retest took 10 mins and a fresh certificate was in my grateful hands
Thanks again
Gary
Ps, I've been a member of 3 single marque clubs, this one, Stag owners and MG Owners clubs. Both the triumph clubs have provided excellent non-mercenary support but the MG club quite the opposite. I partially put this down to the smaller numbers involved and less availability of parts. Maybe I'm daft!
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Thanks for the replies, I'm sorted thanks to Mark and his offset steering stops, easy solution. Hopefully the retest today should just be a formality
Thanks again Mark, such a gent
Gary
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I used to have something very similar to the CJ one shown but it was german made. It was fantastic for restoring my car (MG - sorry) except for a couple of issues, the structure is a pain when working under the car fitting exhausts, brakepipes etc; the hydraulic pump and piping was always getting in the way and it's actually quite tall and needed a ramp at the sides to allow the car to drive over the car lift. I think the TR is lower than the MG so this could be more of a problem.
I wouldn't buy another, nor would I buy the other type shown as it has the same restriction under the car and the rolling heels would likely be an issue. this is what I intend to buy for my next full restoration in a few years time.
Gary
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Mine showed 24% today and passed the handbrake test
(Pity it failed the steering test!)
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Yes they are there but I think they have central holes, offset holes seems a great idea. Mark you have pm
Gary
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Harrumphhh
First mot with the tr6 and its a fail on the front anti roll bar which fouls on the front wheels on full lock. The washers on the drop link just touch the rime and the bar actually scrubs the tyres, same on both sides
Suggested solutions include, fitting wheel spacers, fabricating some sort of steering lock limiter, reshaping the anti roll bar
Thoughts welcome but I'd like a solution that I can employ in the next day or two as that's all the time I have available.
Cheers
Gary
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Hi. I did mine about a month ago. Balanced at 1200 rpm and it's made a massive difference. Happily cruises in 4th at 30 mph now and will pull away cleanly up to 70. Would cough and splutter at 30 before and chug and misfire pulling away.
accelerator oddness
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi. Thanks for the above. Interested in the ball joint links but only from a position of eliminating play in the system. I should have mentioned that with no springs fitted everything moves freely with no notchiness to play in the bushes. With just the bottom spring fitted the return to idle position works smoothly except for about the last 0,5mm which leaves the butterflies very slightly open with the three springs the butterflies close fully. The throttle bodies are balanced with an airflow meter
Thanks
Gary