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grumpy2

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Posts posted by grumpy2

  1. wow Bruce, that's some list. He's what I know from memory. Now has DD red rotor arm, standard Lucas coil,, cap and leads. Ignition is the basic accuspark type (used them in all my classics over the years without any problems). I have a sport coil to fit from TR Bitz

     

    Pump is the Bosch one.

     

    Choke cam set as per manual with feeler gauge. unsure of full choke idle speed as once it catches I put the choke into about 1/3 with idle speed approx 1000 rpm. choke fully off within 2-3 mins or 1/2 mile.

     

    re mixture, not really checked but plugs are blacker than optimum but not overly so, don't look to be running lean.

     

    Haven't tried higher octane fuel although it may be worth a go next time

     

    MU reconditioned by Prestige about 7000 miles ago before my ownership

     

    Gary

  2. Silly OP here. As you can see from the photo the term 'busy' was meant sarcastically. And yes I carry a tool kit but didn't have a spare rotor arm. That was the cause of the problem.

     

    Unless in an emergency I wouldn't consider mounting the pavement as it may well damage tyres or alloys as well as having dubious legality.

     

    The Cairo is always in the boot for car shows, picnics etc. as it a blanket tool kid and some spares (now including a DD rotor arm)

     

    Cheers

     

    Gary

  3. Well now it's going again (see broken down i general section) Id like to address a couple of minor irritations.

     

    First is slight pinking under usual conditions, eg, low Rev acceleration up hill, I'm guessing the timing needs checking and possibly retarding. What is the correct dynamic setting. I can only find static settings. If I keep the revs low can I use the static setting? 11 degrees.

     

    secondly I've always has hot and cold starting issues. Always starts but needs more cranking than I would like. From cold, it coughs once straight away but doesn't catch then takes about 5-10 seconds cranking to fire running rough until the throttle is blipped then it's fine. From hot it needs about 5 seconds cranking then starts and runs fine. I'm thinking vaporisation in the fuel lines but would welcome other more easily solvable suggestions. Warm starting and restarts are immediate.

     

    It's a 72 CP car now with correct red (DD) rotor arm, electronic ignition and correctly set and balanced butterflies. I have a sports coil to fit from TR Bitz

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Gary

  4. rotor arm seized onto dissy shaft, brass arm loose. Eventually freed it off and inside is rusty too. looks grim. Continuity is OK. diss cap looks good too. checked leads and 3 have resistance of about 1500 ohms and 3 only 500 ohms, that seems a bit odd.

     

    Still think its the rotor arm, red one from Paddocks tomorrow and another from DD as recommended

     

    thanks gents, update to follow

     

    Gary

  5. Well I've had an eventful hour so far. One offer of help, one offer of coffee, one lady stopped and asked directions to a town 30 miles away and, the best one, on lady shouting how stupid I was for breaking down here and I should be directing traffic!

  6. For reasons of family I'll health I had to advertise my 3 classic cars for sale about 15 months ago. I was expecting to sell at least one possibly two and leave me on for any spare time I could manage.

     

    Ironically all 3 sold within a week, each for good money too. My stag went to a chap from Ireland, who came over by train, bus and ferry and drove it back. Paid by direct bank transfer at my home and I coukd check the funds had cleared. My Mini Cooper eventually went to Canada via Leicester. Came and paid in cash. My modified 998 mini rocket go-kart went to a chap from Portsmouth who turned out to be a bit of a prt time dealer, came and paid in cash kept it two weeks then re advertised it for £2k more than he paid for it.

     

    So my experiences have all been good. Honest descriptions, sensible prices and common sense prevailed. First two sold via car and classic website, third via mini club forum.

     

    Upside to the story is I bought my TR6 with the proceeds, a cheap mini to keep my hand in and have funds in the bank to use on either.

  7. Yeehaaa. They're in and balanced. Getting them I was relatively easy but not as easy to blance as I expected

     

    Done and road tested

     

    Much lighter throttle and nice steady idle. 5 hours well spent in the end

     

    Thanks, all

     

    Gary

  8. I'm going to try a couple of things from the above suggestions

     

    first I'm going to try using only the upper springs

     

    second I'm going to try changing the linkages to double ball joints. Has anyone tried making their own as £120 for 6 ball joints and some studding seems a bit excessive when bought as a kit. why can't I make my own, parts cost seems under £25. If I do what size ball joins are used? any ideas??

     

    thanks in advance

     

    Gary

     

    edit;- just found another ball joint kit from Moss at just under £50, anyone have experience of this kit?

     

    thanks again

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