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Posts posted by grumpy2
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Forgot. Bruce cables adjusted as per manual. Thanks
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Thanks Bruce, John always wait a few seconds for the pump to build pressure. Is is possible to measure the fuel pressure? If so how and what should it be?
Cheers
Gary
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Silly OP here. As you can see from the photo the term 'busy' was meant sarcastically. And yes I carry a tool kit but didn't have a spare rotor arm. That was the cause of the problem.
Unless in an emergency I wouldn't consider mounting the pavement as it may well damage tyres or alloys as well as having dubious legality.
The Cairo is always in the boot for car shows, picnics etc. as it a blanket tool kid and some spares (now including a DD rotor arm)
Cheers
Gary
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Well now it's going again (see broken down i general section) Id like to address a couple of minor irritations.
First is slight pinking under usual conditions, eg, low Rev acceleration up hill, I'm guessing the timing needs checking and possibly retarding. What is the correct dynamic setting. I can only find static settings. If I keep the revs low can I use the static setting? 11 degrees.
secondly I've always has hot and cold starting issues. Always starts but needs more cranking than I would like. From cold, it coughs once straight away but doesn't catch then takes about 5-10 seconds cranking to fire running rough until the throttle is blipped then it's fine. From hot it needs about 5 seconds cranking then starts and runs fine. I'm thinking vaporisation in the fuel lines but would welcome other more easily solvable suggestions. Warm starting and restarts are immediate.
It's a 72 CP car now with correct red (DD) rotor arm, electronic ignition and correctly set and balanced butterflies. I have a sports coil to fit from TR Bitz
Thanks in advance
Gary
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DD rotor arm and started first time - well almost.
Going to check the timing now as it was pinking at little
Is there a correct dynamic timing?
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Just back from Manchester, dropped into tr bits and picked up a DD rotor arm and dissy cap.
Will fit tonight and see
Fingers crossed.
Gary
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rotor arm seized onto dissy shaft, brass arm loose. Eventually freed it off and inside is rusty too. looks grim. Continuity is OK. diss cap looks good too. checked leads and 3 have resistance of about 1500 ohms and 3 only 500 ohms, that seems a bit odd.
Still think its the rotor arm, red one from Paddocks tomorrow and another from DD as recommended
thanks gents, update to follow
Gary
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I have no spark at the plug but healthy spark from the coil. No points I have electronic. Either way working fine as spark from coils shows.
Will investigate later tonight and buy duplicates of failed items tomorrow.
Cheers
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Home now. Confirmed ignition. Fault in dissy somewhere. New rotor arm and cap in order I think. Two of each just in case.
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Time well spent. See above
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Still here. Id post a Pic but the file size is too big.
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Well I've had an eventful hour so far. One offer of help, one offer of coffee, one lady stopped and asked directions to a town 30 miles away and, the best one, on lady shouting how stupid I was for breaking down here and I should be directing traffic!
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Enjoying a lovely summer afternoon drive. About 2 miles from home just stopped. Probably electrical.
Now enjoying an afternoon standing around waiting for the AA
Life's full of ups and downs.
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For reasons of family I'll health I had to advertise my 3 classic cars for sale about 15 months ago. I was expecting to sell at least one possibly two and leave me on for any spare time I could manage.
Ironically all 3 sold within a week, each for good money too. My stag went to a chap from Ireland, who came over by train, bus and ferry and drove it back. Paid by direct bank transfer at my home and I coukd check the funds had cleared. My Mini Cooper eventually went to Canada via Leicester. Came and paid in cash. My modified 998 mini rocket go-kart went to a chap from Portsmouth who turned out to be a bit of a prt time dealer, came and paid in cash kept it two weeks then re advertised it for £2k more than he paid for it.
So my experiences have all been good. Honest descriptions, sensible prices and common sense prevailed. First two sold via car and classic website, third via mini club forum.
Upside to the story is I bought my TR6 with the proceeds, a cheap mini to keep my hand in and have funds in the bank to use on either.
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Always liked. FUBAR
puts things in context as it was used during WW2 apparently.
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thanks for your help
Gary
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I did!, same colour and similar reg to the one in your pic!
cheers
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Yeehaaa. They're in and balanced. Getting them I was relatively easy but not as easy to blance as I expected
Done and road tested
Much lighter throttle and nice steady idle. 5 hours well spent in the end
Thanks, all
Gary
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3 hours in - not going well!
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Thanks. I'll post an update tomorrow. Malt whisky now for good luck!
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The old one was cut and very worn still hard to remove. All cleaned and painted ready for battle tomorrow. New linkages in the post and bushes ready to fit, what could possibly go wrong!,,
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Moss kit bought. Ordered bushes for shaft too. How on earth does the centre one fit?
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I'm going to try a couple of things from the above suggestions
first I'm going to try using only the upper springs
second I'm going to try changing the linkages to double ball joints. Has anyone tried making their own as £120 for 6 ball joints and some studding seems a bit excessive when bought as a kit. why can't I make my own, parts cost seems under £25. If I do what size ball joins are used? any ideas??
thanks in advance
Gary
edit;- just found another ball joint kit from Moss at just under £50, anyone have experience of this kit?
thanks again
Timing and tuning
in TR6 Forum
Posted
wow Bruce, that's some list. He's what I know from memory. Now has DD red rotor arm, standard Lucas coil,, cap and leads. Ignition is the basic accuspark type (used them in all my classics over the years without any problems). I have a sport coil to fit from TR Bitz
Pump is the Bosch one.
Choke cam set as per manual with feeler gauge. unsure of full choke idle speed as once it catches I put the choke into about 1/3 with idle speed approx 1000 rpm. choke fully off within 2-3 mins or 1/2 mile.
re mixture, not really checked but plugs are blacker than optimum but not overly so, don't look to be running lean.
Haven't tried higher octane fuel although it may be worth a go next time
MU reconditioned by Prestige about 7000 miles ago before my ownership
Gary