DaveN
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Posts posted by DaveN
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Are you sure the pump is overpressurising?
1) check the spill return from the MU to the tank is clear. It tends to get blocked at the 2 inch length of rubber tube behind the near side rear wheel.
2) disconnect the vacuum pipe at the throttle body. Suck on the pipe and stick your tongue over the end. It must hold vacuum
3) replace the PRV
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Cheers for that Stuart
dave
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4/6d an imperial drop!
Actually I’m not sure but I believe it’s quite pricey!
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On 2/27/2021 at 2:59 PM, ntc said:
Our local garage is having a lot of cars in with fuel gone off including modern bottom line don’t start it change it
I wonder if that’s unique to where in the country you are??
Fired mine up tother day and despite a knackered battery it started. Same with the Jag that’s been off road SORN since November. I took that out for a blast, to er... clear out the cobwebs.
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There’s a garage not too far from me that sells 5* leaded petrol!
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Stuart
When you install those security fittings do you bother to remove the original spring blade retention device?
dave
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Looking at a new one I have here, that spring clip just keeps the pin in place that stops the barrel from spinning.
So if the clips is missing and the pin has migrated out I think it would be your problem.
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The battery in mine is u/s and only just turns it over, but it started straight away after being parked up since August!
Next on the list is a new battery ready for the summer.... if it’s going to happen!!!
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Er... if it idles ok with all 6 inlets covered/ blanked the air leak is down stream of the throttle butterflies!
Check the injectors have o rings fitted
Disconnect and blank the vac hose to the servo
Check the condition of the hose to the MU
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15 hours ago, stuart said:
They shouldnt be.
Stuart.
Funnily enough I’ve just replaced the rear pads, discs and callipers on my daily hack..., a Golf, and couldn’t get a decent feel to the pedal even after repeated pressure bleeding ( golfs can be a pain to bleed properly). Left it a few days and the pedal feel is back to normal after bedding them in properly. Can tell now the discs have an even shine.
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They will be spongy until bedded in properly!
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4 hours ago, RogerH said:
Or, put it into a plastic bucket and leave out in the sun - it will evaporate away but don;t let Greta find you.
Roger
Or a match.... that’s even quicker!
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Er..... do you have new pads fitted?
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3 hours ago, Richmac said:
Is that on a TR6 Dave? Are they ok as that is what I'm thinking of replacing mine with?
I find them really good wet or dry. Cheap as chips too.
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I’m only just the other side of the Airport. So there is plenty of people around who could take a look.
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Where abouts are you? I’m sure someone would be willing to take a quick look. One thing though do not take it to a ‘usual’ garage because...
1. They will not have a clue
2. You will get ripped off
dave
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3 hours ago, Richmac said:
No I only bought the car last year and noticed slight cracking in the side wall a few weeks later. Do you re=boot in new Michelin at £1000 every five years?
No Verdstein T-Trak 2 at about 40 quid a corner. My XKR will probably need tyres before 5 years.
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‘Perished tyres.’ You actually keep them long enough to perish? I bin mine after 5 years regardless how few miles.
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If it’s a nice flat face a Dowty seal will do. Otherwise gas thread PTFE tape and a copper washer. Don’t forget to anneal the copper washer first!
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Good point I never thought of Fernox! Think it may be worth buying in bulk and repackaging in different containers, adding a bit of a premium and selling it on eBay
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So basically we use a Silicate antifreeze ‘blue’ for cars prior to about 1998. From then on its OAT ‘red’.
What would one use with an aluminium radiator? Iron block, copper heater core and ally radiator?
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+1 for Mikalor Clamps. For anti seize I use:
Never-Seez NSBT-8N Silver Pure Nickel
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Now I’m not recommending this but, with mine I pulled out the block drain and fished around with a length of wire coat hangar. Then disconnected the heater hoses and connected up to mains pressure. It worked! eventually a great big brown slug of **** slowly oozed out. Then reversed the flow every few minutes until it ran clear. I used the heater valve to direct the flow back through the heater and removed the rad cap to flush the radiator.
Door lock repair.
in General TR Technical
Posted
P.M me your address and I’ll post you a pin and the clip