DaveN
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Posts posted by DaveN
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As a side note what’s the consensus on diff. mounts? Rubber or poly? Not bothered about the cost difference but knowing the quality some of the rubber…. Unless of course it has improved?
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It would be interesting to see what president khan plans to do about the air quality… pollution on the underground. No mention of the nano particles released by the steel on steel and steel on iron produced by the train wheels… not forgetting of course the barium released from the brake system, these nano particles breathed in easily pass to the brain via the blood system. There might even be an Ozone issue from the 700VDC electrical system.
ah but hang on that’s underground, out of sight out of mind!
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15 hours ago, AndyR100 said:
My understanding is that the flag used by the ULEZ charging system is that of ‘Historic’ status - does your V5C state Historic as the taxation class?
if it does, I’d contact TFL about their error, if it doesn’t I’d contact DVLA to ensure the taxation class is corrected, then the TFL system should be fed the correct data.
…….. Andy
Good point! I will check, but surely if it’s tax free that should be reflected as such??
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Hi folks.
Well, seeing that President Khan is expanding the money grab ULEZ zone, I decided to put in my TR registration…. And guess what? According to TfL it is not exempt despite being a 1974 tax and mot free!Does anyone know what the best email or telephone no. would be at the DVLA to get a correction done?
TfL site just says they get all the details from DVLC
Dave
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Limora CV jointed half shafts.
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6 hours ago, astontr6 said:
The originals were made from nylon 66 which is not ethanol 100% proof, you need to use nylon 12 which is but I have been unable to find a supplier in the UK.
Bruce.
Hoseshop.net
part no. INF64 ???
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I think they are doing some illegal trading of parts too. There is a fire damaged Merc. AMG that they are selling parts off. I thought that a fire damaged car was classed Cat A and had to be destroyed in entirety?
A mate of mine fell foul of this having bought fire damaged DAX Cobra parts. In his case there was a YouTube clip of it burning at the side of the road. He had all sorts of issues with the insurance company and even plod got involved. He did eventually get his money back!
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I think the switch has gone south. Or a cable has pulled off the back of the switch.
- Bridging the brown and red/ green should bring on the sidelights.
- Check the brown wire for battery voltage
- Bridge brown to blue should bring on the headlights
- If still nothing is working check the bullet connectors under the dashboard
- Indicators: The supply comes from the white power cable off the back of the ignition switch….. Does the engine run? That cable also feeds the fuel pump!
- So. Ignition on. Select the indicator left or right. And check for voltage at the indicator flasher unit.
- No voltage? Again check the bullet connectors under the dashboard
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Rather than Kunifer you can use copper brake pipe. Measure the length and make the joints. Heat the tube to cherry red and either quench in water or leave to cool naturally. That will anneal the tube and it will be easy to bend by hand. Try to do the bends in one go as it work hardens quickly, but you can re anneal with no ill effects.
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On 3/6/2022 at 7:10 PM, Ali King said:
Update ....
I have recieved another letter from the DVLA, see attached. It basically says there was an agreement in the late 70s by ISO to exclude certain characters from VINs. They say it is an accepted practice to change 'I' to '1' and 'O' to '0' for an old chassis.
Having been IT consultant, and for many years specialising in data analysis and data modelling, I find this particularly irksome and a poor solution to a common problem - just another public sector IT bodge/failure - but, whatever, I have seen worse IT systems.
My only question now is whether I should ask them to simply delete the last '0' (which should be an 'O') as I do not believe it is necessarily part of the true chassis number. I assume it is not required to make the actual number unique - i.e. there is not another chassis out there with the same number as mine but no 'O'.
Or should I just let it go?
Chris (trchris): - any news on your attempt?
Ali.
We have a similar issue at work with part numbers for aircraft spares. There is no ‘O’ only a ‘0’ and the same with ‘I’ and ‘1’.
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I used double sided tape.
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Er…. I’d be more interested in the age of the rear hubs. They do on occasion depart company with the car usually at the most inopportune moment.
The best thing I did was to replace the drive shafts with CV jointed shafts. New springs, poly bush the trailing arms, and overhaul the lever arms with slightly uprated valving!
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Yes that would have been the same one! He was cruising steady, should have kept going! Clutchless gear changes are easy enough with a balance of revs/speed and not rushing the change.
When I broke down the interesting think the recovery couldn’t fit the tow bar because it was so low it may have dug into the road. The chap also said they weren’t to use a tow rope!! I said I was happy…just be mindful no brake assist! Then out came the tow rope and it was really short as some time in the past it had snapped…. Concentration was the order of the day!
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Cleaning!…….. Genklene. Unfortunately it’s illegal now.
years ago ‘Which’ magazine tested freeing agents and what came out best at the time? ……. 3 in 1 oil.
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Was that a white left hooker you saw Roger? Near High Wycombe? If so I saw him pull over as I was giving my new F-Type R a ‘pasting’.
As regards breaking down my TR failed me on the M25…. That little escapade prompted me to fit a hazard switch over the winter!
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Surely if one wants to keep the smell out of the boot and stop the resonating keep to short runs well supported and outside of the car?
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Hi graham sent as a pm
dave
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As the title refers. Any major pitfalls to importing a car from Europe?
The car in question is a classic is 30 years old and is RHD having been exported from the uk in the 80’s or 90’s.
It seems a bit of a minefield! Has anyone done it recently?
DaveN
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A 3/8 drill wound in by hand just to dig into the nylon then a sharp tug will pull it out. As for the injectors with the engine running, one at a time pull them out and give them a sharp whack with a hammer or the edge of a big spanner on the side, will sometimes get them to cheer up!
Two types of injector fittings wise. Push fit and screw in. So there is two types of nylon holder, plain and threaded.
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Er... what’s wrong with one from Mr. Halfords? I just got an 010 640CCA type at a reasonable price.
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1 hour ago, Steve1 said:
Personally I would get Neil Ferguson to refurb the unit for £130 -ish
+1
Also no need to position the engine at TDC. Carefully pull the MU off the pedestal. Take a picture with your phone of the end of the MU.
Do not turn the engine over at all. When you go to refit, just position the MU shaft to the same orientation as the picture you took, bit of grease to hold the red plastic drive in position and refit.dave
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Might be work a call to Cast Iron Welding Services and ask them. The inlet valve seat is goosed too and even a seat (I guess they are available somewhere) you would run the risk of it dropping.
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10 years??? Blimey. I junk mine after 5 regardless of how few miles.
I see the MOT is changing to fail any tyres over 10 years.... about time too.
Engine oil.
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Specs for current Valvoline VR1 list zinc and phosorous separately.