pedlar17
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Posts posted by pedlar17
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I have a leak coming from the front of the engine, and I am pretty sure it's from the sealing block. I have read about a steel replacement supplied by classic technologies in the states. Does anyone know where these can be obtained in the U.K. I know Rimmers and the like do an aluminium. But really want a future prof fix.
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I don't know these came from the TRShop on a set of updated driveshafts
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Just a simple question, I am replacing the up joint on the rear drive shafts, and there is a small plastic cap on the end of each trunnion, covering the cross hole. Should these be removed before assembly?
I am thinking they should as it would stop the grease from flowing through the joint.
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I will check the shoe clips again in the morning, but I am pretty sure they are in position, as I checked the shoes first.
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Hi Peter,
Not sure of the previous history of the hubs, they look ok. I have just replaced the standard lever arms for a spas conversion because I thought it might be the old Armstrong units, however the noise is still there. I will try freeing off the brakes a bit, but they have been freshly rebuilt.
If it is the hub bearings, and the exchange rebuild unit could be a problem, what is the recommended course for replacement?
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The only worry, is what will happen if it is the bearing, and it suddenly decides to give way.
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I have a strange grinding type of noise coming from the rear of my TR6
It seems to be there when accelerating up to around 20mph and then disappears. It seems to come from the rear passenger side. There are no knocks, so I don't think it's the ujs. I cannot feel any play in the hub bearing. Could it be time for new hubs.
Any insite into this would be appreciated.
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How would you tell? Both arms look identical, one has the manufacturing date welded on.
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I have run the car around 150 miles since rebuild, so everything should have settled down correctly. I don't think the trailing arm is twisted, but do not have anything to check it against.
According to buckeye link, with the current angle that I have, I could get close to zero with a 3u inside and 2d outside.
Do you think it's worth swopping brackets?
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I have a new CTM chassis with all new rear shocks, springs and poly bushes.
The problem is that the near side is at zero degrees, with standard brackets but the right hand is about 2 degrees positive. I have checked all parts and cannot find a solution to get the right hand to zero.
Should I fit non standard brackets?
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Hi Graham
I have a used one that not to bad, I'm in Aylesbury, your welcome to come and have a look
Laurie
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I am currently restoring a factory hardtop, and I have two different profile seals for the bottom on either side.
Does anyone have a photo of the bottom of the hardtop showing the positioning of these seals.
One is a square profile with a lip, and the other is a thin rectangular profile with a curved lip.
Many thanks
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Do you have a picture of the bottom where the rubber seals are fitted?
I have two different profiles of rubber strip that glues to the sides and I am unsure which is correct.
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I have got samples from a long he various sources and skinners white vinyl, looks very much like an old English white. Nice feel to it. So I think that will keep the cockpit nice and bright.
Does anyone have a picture off the bottom of the hood where the rubber seals are glued. I seem to have two different profiles for the sides.
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I think white is a little to bright. But if that's the original.
Was it the same for all years
Cheers
Laurie
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I am currently restoring a 1972 hardtop that came with the car.
The car is Pimento red, with a black interior.
The harttop headlining has long gone.
What would the original colour have been, I see there is white, off white or black. Skinner seem to also offer a beige.
I am leaning towards off white. But I would rather find out what was fitted originally.
Many thanks
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I'm looking to replace the aluminium capping on the windscreen, which supplier has the best ones, or are they all from the same manufacturer, as I have heard of some badly fitting ones.
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Thanks Roger.
Can the ammeter still be used as the wiring for the original 15ACR is different to the new 18ACR, and if so how to I connect it?
Cheers
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My 1972 UK PI has a 15ACR alternator. This has just died, and I am looking to replace with either a 17 ACR if I can find one, or an 18 ACR 45 amp unit. I do not have anything extra on the vehicle so would like to keep as close to stock as possible.
My question is, can the original ammeter still be used with the 18 ACR.?
Many thanks
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I think that would be a neat solution, as you would not see the dome nut on the front.
How would you captivate the screw onto the H Frame?
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Were octagonal spinners fitted for all years? Or did it vary
I understand wires were no longer offered after 1972.
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I am fitting wires to my freshly restored machine.
What spinners would have been supplied originally, 2 eared or 3 eared. Also I have seen some two eared with the triumph logo, which I do like. Would these have been supplied originally.
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That would be great. Mine is a UK 1972, so I am thinking it should be a u channel.
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Hi John
Yes item 91
I am sure I had one when I dismantled the car, but am unable to find it now, so as it is no longer available, I will have to fabricate one.
Front engine sealing block
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks, looks like a weekends work on the ramps.