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  • Cars Owned:
    Healey1006, TR6
  1. Thanks, looks like a weekends work on the ramps.
  2. I have a leak coming from the front of the engine, and I am pretty sure it's from the sealing block. I have read about a steel replacement supplied by classic technologies in the states. Does anyone know where these can be obtained in the U.K. I know Rimmers and the like do an aluminium. But really want a future prof fix.
  3. I don't know these came from the TRShop on a set of updated driveshafts
  4. Just a simple question, I am replacing the up joint on the rear drive shafts, and there is a small plastic cap on the end of each trunnion, covering the cross hole. Should these be removed before assembly? I am thinking they should as it would stop the grease from flowing through the joint.
  5. I will check the shoe clips again in the morning, but I am pretty sure they are in position, as I checked the shoes first.
  6. Hi Peter, Not sure of the previous history of the hubs, they look ok. I have just replaced the standard lever arms for a spas conversion because I thought it might be the old Armstrong units, however the noise is still there. I will try freeing off the brakes a bit, but they have been freshly rebuilt. If it is the hub bearings, and the exchange rebuild unit could be a problem, what is the recommended course for replacement?
  7. The only worry, is what will happen if it is the bearing, and it suddenly decides to give way.
  8. I have a strange grinding type of noise coming from the rear of my TR6 It seems to be there when accelerating up to around 20mph and then disappears. It seems to come from the rear passenger side. There are no knocks, so I don't think it's the ujs. I cannot feel any play in the hub bearing. Could it be time for new hubs. Any insite into this would be appreciated.
  9. How would you tell? Both arms look identical, one has the manufacturing date welded on.
  10. I have run the car around 150 miles since rebuild, so everything should have settled down correctly. I don't think the trailing arm is twisted, but do not have anything to check it against. According to buckeye link, with the current angle that I have, I could get close to zero with a 3u inside and 2d outside. Do you think it's worth swopping brackets?
  11. I have a new CTM chassis with all new rear shocks, springs and poly bushes. The problem is that the near side is at zero degrees, with standard brackets but the right hand is about 2 degrees positive. I have checked all parts and cannot find a solution to get the right hand to zero. Should I fit non standard brackets?
  12. Hi Graham I have a used one that not to bad, I'm in Aylesbury, your welcome to come and have a look Laurie
  13. I am currently restoring a factory hardtop, and I have two different profile seals for the bottom on either side. Does anyone have a photo of the bottom of the hardtop showing the positioning of these seals. One is a square profile with a lip, and the other is a thin rectangular profile with a curved lip. Many thanks
  14. Do you have a picture of the bottom where the rubber seals are fitted? I have two different profiles of rubber strip that glues to the sides and I am unsure which is correct.
  15. I have got samples from a long he various sources and skinners white vinyl, looks very much like an old English white. Nice feel to it. So I think that will keep the cockpit nice and bright. Does anyone have a picture off the bottom of the hood where the rubber seals are glued. I seem to have two different profiles for the sides.
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