TR5tar
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Posts posted by TR5tar
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I'm so glad you made that mistake before I did Erik
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Hi Erik,
I think we must be on almost exactly the same path, as I changed my brake fluid a couple of months back and before doing so wanted to know which type of fluid I had. Mixing it with water is the best way of finding out. I did a video on it as well, but as you've now established what you have there's no need to post it.
Have fun with bleeding the brakes!
Darren
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If the gaiter has been cracked for a while (hence dry and dusty inside) it's safer to remove the rack; work on bench and take the opportunity to check if there's any flat on the track rod end balls. If needed give it a turn to tie up the rods as per workshop manual instructions. To fit the new gaiters, soaking them in hot water before and turning them inside out as stated helps a lot. Half a day job if my memory serves.
Thanks Stef. I don't think the gaiter that I replaced had been split for very long. It wasn't dry or dusty inside at all, but your point is noted for next time.
I wish I'd thought about soaking the gaiter in hot water first. I struggled for ages to get it over the ball joint. Again, I'll remember for next time.
Darren / earckens
Just a note for the video. The nyloc nut ( part No GHF224 ) on the track rod end , as a safety item , should never be re-used. ALWAYS replace.
Scenario...plastic doesn't grip the nut , nut loosens with vibration over time , car hits speed bump / pothole , taper breaks , no connection with steering input and the steering arm , wheel decides for you as to which way it wants to go !
Safe motoring in your TR.
Bob
Hi Bob,
I didn't replace the nyloc nut; it didn't cross my mind it was necessary. Now you've told me this Bob, I'll get a new one and put it on before I take the car out next.
It's incredibly useful to have this information and the other tips, because I keep notes on each job in my maintenance log, so all this will be added.
Hi Darren,
would this ball joint splitter do the job: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/ball-joint-splitter-19mm-mtr491405.html
It is stated for 19mm; they also have a 17mm unit http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?search_group=&q=joint+splitter
A Rimmers search did not turn up anything for this.
Hi Erik,
There are a few different designs when it comes to joint splitters, but they all do the same, so I imagine the one you show will do the job. I'm not sure which is the correct size to get, as I just picked up the one I had in the garage and tried it. Someone else on the forum might be able to tell you which is best.
I hope you are learning from all my mistakes
Darren
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One more fit the outer tie on full lock ie at full stretch
Thanks Neil. As it happens, one of my local group members pointed that out to me when he saw the video, so since then I have replaced the jubilee clip I had used as the outer tie with a cable tie and I did do that on full lock.
It's a good point for Erik to keep in mind when he does his.
Cheers, Darren
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"Darren
Did not know who did the vid,you do right diy and learn,two points never grease or use washing up liquid that will perish the rubber and the rack retains the grease."
Thanks Neil, noted for future reference.
Darren
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Hi Darren,
Thanks for posting the video. It is very useful.
I know I will have to replace my steering rack gaiters within the next six months or so, and this was a great help in identifying the main issues.
TT
Thanks Tony. If it's of some use when you do yours, then that's great. I got advice from a few forum members when doing this job, so if I can also pass on something that might prove useful I'm pleased.
Shame it was wrong, think of putting the washing up gloves on
Don't worry Neil, I already knew that I made several mistakes when doing this. That's why the whole job took me 8+ hours
. But remember, until I bought the TR three years back, I'd never tackled any car maintenance. Changing a fuse was was a mammoth job for me, so doing something like this involved a steep learning curve. When I bought the car, I didn't want to be the type of owner that let someone else do all the work on it. I did eventually get to the point, as I say in the video, where I worked out that turning the gaiter inside out was the way to go. I know that that will seem obvious to you and many of the others that have worked on your cars for years, but I'm trying (very, some would say).Always happy to hear from anyone who can tell me the correct way of doing the things I get wrong. Always happy to learn.
Great video! Such professionalism, I wish I coul download it. Not exactly the same as TR4 but main priniciples remain, I learrned a lot from your video. 30 Years ago I had changed the rubber gaiter from a 1983 front wheel drive Opel Kadett, so this experience as well as your video do help a lot.
Definitely not professional Erik. Just me trying to learn. If it has given you some help with what to do, or not to do, then great. And well done for having a go at it.
Cheers, Darren
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OK, Erik, just remember this is on my 5, so there might be differences that I'm unaware of.
Also, I must stress that this is not in anyway intended to be a tutorial video. This is just my first time effort at doing the job and there's probably a few things that I haven't done correctly, so use at your own risk. I'm sure some of our more knowledgeable members will be along to provide feedback on where I can improve on my method, so both you and I will learn from that.
Darren
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No problem Erik. I changed the passenger side steering rack gaiter on my 5 just recently. It was a bit of a learning experience, as I had never done that job before.
I imagine there's not too much difference between the 4 and the 5 when it comes to this job, but I might be wrong. If there isn't much difference, then I can send you a link to a video of how I did it, if you think it might help.
Darren
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Hi,
"Rubber belows" ... is that what I'd call the steering rack gaiter?
Darren
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Did you get a reply?
They were very quick to reply. My contact in the technical department stated that VSPe Power Plus does contain Ferrocene for its octane boosting properties. In reply, I said that it was not stated as part of the contents on the bottles I had and asked why and if it was a recent addition. Contact came back to say that it has been used in the product for at least 10 years. I then pressed him again about why it was not listed on earlier bottles and he said that that was down to the marketing department.
I can only think that some law must have changed recently to compel them to list it!
I'm going to see how mine runs without it and look at some of the other options.
Cheers, Darren
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Just to be aware . If your trims are on the wrong side they could well have cut into the paint by the hump in the door, should you decide to correct them.Made this mistake myself back in the eighties. Chris
Thanks Chris. I'll look out for that. Knowing what I'm like, I won't get around to it for a year or two anyway!
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Everything I've read on the subject says that the beads were painted body colour, and that's what I have on mine. As the 5 was a stopgap, I guess Triumph were thinking of ways in which it could be made to look a bit different to the 4A, and in the end it came down to the badges and trim. In some respects I prefer the trim and the individual letter badge layout on the 4A. Perhaps, as Peter says above, some of the original buyers asked the dealer to change the beading to the bare metal type, or maybe the occasional one left the factory with bare metal beading fitted by mistake. However, I think it's most likely that most if not all have had the bare metal beading fitted as part of a restoration.
It does make me smile sometimes when people get hung up on these details. I occasionally have other 5 owners tell me that the metal door strips on my 5 are upside down (i.e the right hand side one should be on the left door and vice versa). I know that those that have told me this are correct and I will change them around at some point, but typically those that delight in telling me have non-standard seats (as do I) and various other non standard parts. I think if the car is a survivor or being made as original as possible, then these details are important. For the rest of us, it just comes down to taste.
Darren
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Nothing has changed, just added this using above method:
Tom.
"my media" is just to the right of the smiley face you use to insert - smiley faces !
Bob.
Yes Bob, I can add a photo like that, but I'm sure I used to be able to add a larger photo, one that didn't need to be clicked on to see full size ... i.e. it appears full size in the post from the outset. I think that is what John was getting at too.
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That's what I've always done, and as you found gets a thumbnail. Perfectly good, as long as you and your readers are willing to click and wait a moment.
I wonder what's changed then, because I'm sure I've used that method in the past and it worked fine.
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Edit:
Actually John, that method above doesn't seem to be working for me now, so perhaps something else has changed since I last used it.
Darren
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I cannot help with your question Stan, but I might have an answer for you John. I'm not sure what method you use to post photos at the moment, but here is what I do:
1. Before composing a message, I click on the "More Reply Options" button, that is to the right of the "Post" button below where you type your post.
2. Under the text box that appears, it say "Attach Files", and below that "Choose File". I click "Choose File" and navigate to where my picture is located.
3. Then I click on the picture file I wish to upload and its name appears to the right of the "Choose File button.
4. Then I click on "Attach this File", which appears under "Choose File". When I do that I see a small version of the image appear above where it says "Attach Files".
If you post your message at that point, you only see a thumbnail in the post. To see the larger image, you need one more step:
5. Where that small image appears, look along to the right of that and you should see an "Add to Post" button. Click that and the link to the picture should appear in your text box, and the photo should be visible when you complete the post. You can move the bit of text around in the post in order to choose where the picture appears.
Hope that helps.
Cheers, Darren
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Gents, based on looking around and your input, I think about 9-10% is probably about average.
Funnily enough, thats also (as near as) the premium increase!
So, "fairs fair"......
Anyone have any thoughts over reinstatement cover?
Worth it or not?
My feeling has always been, in the event of a total loss, maybe you'd want a 'new' one unless you have particular attachment to your current one??
Salvage buy back?
Would you want the pain of slowly tearing it to pieces and selling on?
Hi John,
Keep in mind that if you are with the TRRI your increase in agreed value will also mean another increase in your premium. Well, it did for me at least, so I assume it's the same for all.
I do have the reinstatement cover. I can see your point about having a new one, but for me it would be most important to put mine back on the road, as I'd rather that than see it or any other TR scrapped or sold for parts.
Cheers, Darren
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Hi John,
I hadn't increased the agreed value on mine for 3 years, so this year I felt I should. I pretty much did what Neil suggests (based it on what I'd now pay for the car if I was buying it), and that equated to about a 10% increase in my case. With the TRR insurance I had to send in six photos.
Cheers, Darren
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OK, thanks Darren.
I've written to Millers to ask what is going on.
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Thanks Darren. Isn't that odd.
I've got a multi-shot bottle, that's actually about 2-3 years old and that doesn't state any contents. I also have a Single Shot bottle that I purchased a couple of weeks back, and that does list contents, but no Ferrocene ...
Did you buy yours from one of the usual suppliers?
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Thanks Tom. Interesting.
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Glad it wasn't what you thought it was Paul.
That idea of magnetic drain plugs sounds good Tom. Did you just stick a magnet on the standard plug or is it something that can be purchased?
Darren
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Popped in there today to px CP2 for my 5 !!
It's SOLD......
Conrad.
... hopefully to someone who'll use it regularly and not just tuck it away somewhere to gather dust and money!
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Peter,
Unfortunately no. I bought Millers VSP thinking that, then spotted deposits on my plugs and saw that Ferrocene was listed on the label!
Darren
Hi Darren,
I'm just looking at the bottle of Millers VSPE Power Plus I just bought and I cannot see any mention on it that it contains Ferrocene. Is it the "VSPE" that you have?
Cheers, Darren
Securing a pup in the 6
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Love that photo Stuart. Time for a caption competition I reckon!