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Posts posted by TR5tar
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You have PM Nick.
Cheers, Darren
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I could be tempted if I had a bit of spare cash ...
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Glad it worked out well for you Michael. If you haven't spent the money already, how about buying ... another TR!
Best wishes to you.
Darren
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I'd also say go with your gut Michael. I think most of us have a good sense of when something smells fishy, and this does. You've not met the man, he's off out of the country on Friday, he's not seen the car, no address.
If that second buyer, who you met, isn't far off the price (a few hundred), then I'd go with that, providing as Hawk said you are not breaching any Ebay rule. I'd talk with them about that and explain.
There are always people out there ready to stitch you up!
Cheers, Darren
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Thanks Wayne. It'll be very useful when it is up-to-date. What's the timeline for that looking like?
It would be nice if a directory of members who might like to volunteer in each area in a breakdown situation could be compiled too. I'm sure many would be keen to help.
Cheers, Darren
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Not sure where it went, but I read a post here earlier that talked of a previously planned Emergency Breakdown Directory. I've often thought that such a thing would be incredibly useful, whether in a digital format or hard copy, particularly to owners like myself who might lack confidence in travelling longer distances because they are not so knowledgeable about how to fix their cars at the side of the road. Younger people, especially, I think are put off owning classics because of this sort of fear, so anything that might bolster their confidence has to be a good thing. To many it would be worth the sub on its own I reckon.
I'm sure many members would be happy to be included in such a directory, if it was just phone number and email address. I know I would. Not that I could offer much in the way of technical assistance, but at least I could help someone move their car or take them a flask of tea if they broke down close by.
Something to consider.
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I tried to post a video recently and got nowhere, so assume that the facility has been removed from the forum. Thankfully there are plenty of other places to post videos.
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I think you are right to do so Tim. It's not specific to 6s.
Good moderation, and thanks for letting people know.
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I'm a long way off being being an expert Terry, but if you are sure the battery is good and there's no issue with fuses, then I'd check the earth like Mike said. I had a similar issue with my daily driver a few years back and on that occasion it was a corroded earth strap.
Hope it's an easy fix for you.
Cheers, Darren
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Just worked out that mine is a Monday car, so hopefully the workforce were happy and refreshed and ready to do a top job. A Friday's child might have been a different matter.
Darren
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... and cant find anything under very late 40's.
Hi Paul,
I'm surprised, as it looked to me a while back like the prices were not really moving, although in saying that I don't look too often. Have you talked with any of the specialist TR firms about what you are looking for? There are a handful that only deal in TRs and often sell on commission too.
The right car at the right price will come along, but sometimes you need to wait a bit for it. You'll know when you find it.
Cheers, Darren
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I see, thanks Stuart. Something else on my "to do list"
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Hi Paul, looks like a very nice car but if you want original then the wheels (which I actually prefer) aren't and surly it should have a rad cowl.
Apart from that for over 50k I would expect a new CTM chassis and telescopic rear dampers . Original is fine but if you plan to drive it which is what these cars were made for then some upgrades are desireable.
Chris
I might be wrong Chris, but I don't think the 5 had a rad cowl when it was made.
Mick's advice above is good, in that it depends on what you are after. Absolutely original 5s are few and far between, so if that is what you are looking for, then look very carefully at all the detail and take expert advice ... and be prepared to pay the extra for the car. You'll be paying for the "originality", so you want to be sure of it, and then guard the car with your life, because if you have to change anything the originality diminishes.
For £52k I'd want it just right.
Cheers, Darren
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Six inches is always better than 3, I'd say!
I can't think of a reason to fit a shorter filter, other than perhaps if space is limited. More knowledgeable people than me will be able to give a definite answer I'm sure.
Darren
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Glad you got a quick sale.
Darren
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Once I got the correct size socket (imperial) it was fine - the metric one of a similar size doesn't work though.
I was using the imperial socket but it still kept slipping when I tried. Nut seems too shallow to me, as Roger says, but perhaps I'd just over tightened it last time around. Next time I'll use Roger's good old rope and screwdriver trick!
Lood forward to reading your article Bob.
Cheers, Darren
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I use the K&N one which has a nut on the top and makes it very easy to remove!
Daz
I also use the K&N HP2009, mainly because I thought the nut to ease removal was a good idea. Although, I have to say, when I came to change it the socket kept slipping off it, so I had to resort to a trusty removal tool.
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One thing I didn't include was a spare set of points/condenser. Mine has been switched to electronic, but I think it's still worth carrying.
Cheers, Darren
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I've been using Penrite GB40 oil in my 5's gearbox, as recommended previously by forum users. However, looking at the recent thread on "Penrite Oils", it seems that Penrite now recommends its Mild EP oil. Is there any consensus on what's best?
Darren
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If we could find somewhere reasonably central for all of us, we could have a get together of our own to celebrate.
Darren
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If you are a TR Register member, check out the website, spanners and spares, downloadable lists for PI and carb cars:-
That's useful, thanks Ian. I'd not seen it before. Only one slight problem, the download for PI cars is actually for carburettor cars.
A couple of good points that the document makes is to carry and torch and warning triangle ... which I do. In addition, I also carry a flashing light, the type used by cyclists.
Darren
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Hi Peter,
I think the best advice I ever received on this matter was to only take what you feel confident about fixing your self at the side of the road. As I do not have a lot of mechanical knowledge, that limits the scope for me to quite a manageable amount of spares and tools.
Most important ... breakdown cover and fully charged phone (with the breakdown service providers numbers saved).
Tools:
Small imperial/metric socket set
Small range of spanners
Small range of screwdrivers
Pliers
Electric jack
Tyre inflator
Tools for removing wheels (I have knock ons)
Tyre valve core removal tool
Micro battery booster (fully charged up)
Multimeter
Crimping tool
A couple of those little gadgets to put on the end of a spark plug to see if it is firing
Spares
Coil
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Spark plugs
2 Spare injectors
Alternator belt
Tyre valve cores
Spare wheel
Range of fuses
Electrical cable
Range of electrical connectors
Range of light bulbs
Range of jubilee clips
If I were going on a long journey abroad, I might take the spare fuel pump I have.
Useful consumables
Cable ties of various sizes
Duck tape
Self amalgamating tape
Strong glue
K-Seal
5 ltr can of water
I think that's about it.
Cheers, Darren
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Spent last weekend and the couple before doing some basic spannering ... changed engine oil/oil filter, topped up diff and GB oil, greased all round, changed dizzy cap, plugs and rotor arm (something I do every couple of years regardless of how well car is running), and cleaned the air filter. Pretty much all ready for the summer now. Took her out for a 70 mile shakedown run and gave it some welly. Seems to be running nicely.
Only other thing I might tackle is valve clearance adjustment. Not done it before, so I have to work up to it.
Cheers, Darren
Alternator Output Too High?
in TR4/4A Forum
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