cotswold
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Posts posted by cotswold
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There are a few sellers looking for over £30k for 4A
http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/detail/motors/classic-cars/triumph/tr4a/125320
This one is on sale for £34,995 and you can see the high prices in the glassy car mags, just saying.
Charles
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Under the rules of reconstruction starting with an existing car and engine at least you have the basis for a legitimate matching numbers UK RHD TR4A IRS which by the time its done up as a private project (labour of love) with parts sourced on ebay and auto jumbles I reckon you could spend an agreeable winter rebuilding her and happily spend 18K+ on parts and paint giving you a nice car to own or sell as a ground up restoration at current prices of £30k+
I would say its worth £2.5K all day long on that basis.
Charles
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Hi Roger, yes I did consider that but read that you would need a tanker tender!
Regards
Charles
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Thanks very much Red 6 that is very helpful indeed. I will try and give the pi some attention Mike to see if I can get it running ok but won't spend too much time and money on it. John thanks but I would probably keep the old set up.
Cheers
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hello wise ones,
Today I bought a yellow 1975 TR6
It is running rough and missing occasionally on a couple of cylinders and whilst I will go through the electrics and ignition to eliminate issues there I have never warmed to PI and would like to know if anyone can tell me what I would need to do (and roughly what it would cost) to convert to SU carbs. I understand that twin SUs give better fuel consumption than Strombergs and are more reliable than Webbers.Thanks
Charles
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I agree with Monty if the TRRI is not competitive what is the point it would just be another eponymous broker and we should get comparative like for like quotes elsewhere. I too trusted TRRI to be best value for money due to group purchasing power.
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I changed the oil about a month ago for the first time as a new TR owner and learning on the job also experienced the slow undoing of that long bolt and the inevitable warm oil down the arm. I extracted the o ring with a craft knife. The new o ring and replacement of the filter and holder went ok so I stared the car and drove it out of the garage onto the block drive only to find the oil gushing out. I switched off pushed the car back into the garage and started the clean up. I had lost all the new oil on the drive so used old towels paper and anything else absorbent to get the surface oil off. I drove to B&Q for driveway cleaner and oil removal stuff to use with my Karcher.
The cleaner helped but I still have dark edges to the paviors The cause was the canister not bedded onto the o ring and was my error as I had not screwed the canister on properly. I do not have any leakage and see no reason to convert (also the conversion is not cheap) provided I prepare properly take care when changing the filter.
Maybe after the next oil change ............
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I agree Stan, frankly unless one publishes the material and sells it for profit it would not be economical or practical to pursue an individual for copyright infringement without discovery of who originally put the material in the public domain. I downloaded it from a German blog site that is of course available internationally on the Internet. Dissemination electronically within our small group for free doesn't constitute a significant financial loss for anyone as the printed and bound version sells for under £30 on Amazon.
Charles
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Ok ok I give up! I will not pass on any more copies in case it's some infringement. In my defence m'lord I only passed on what was freely available in the public domain and boy am I grateful that this was not a USA publication or I would have to move to Russia or join Julian at the Embassy
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No idea Alan, legally I would imagine the point to be moot since copyright for an original 'Triumph' Work Manual must now be void if that same document is available to the general public via the internet?
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Yikes 27 requests in 2 hours, forgot how big this register is.
I have sent a copy to the Press office (at their request) so they can include it in their Technical papers.
Charles
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It's the 21st Century PeteT
love it or hate it its here.........ha ha -
Gee thanks Edwin!
The ones I am buying are the Blue ones (not yellow or black) and guaranteed for 36,000 miles so unless you drove every day all day I guess you fitted the cheaper ones.Charles
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Thanks Peter/Edwin,
Yes did see these but reading the blurb on various websites thought I would try the stated 'more comfortable long lasting 'Pollybush' option, not a huge mistake in any event as I can always change it over in the future.
However, my question remains, do I need the special tool or can I manage fitting the mounts without it? I suppose those with the Ali upgrades wont know!
Best
Charles
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Hi Guys,
I have a TR4 & A Workshop manual in PDF format that is proving to be invaluable for everything from Torque settings to oils and general maintenance guidance.
I keep this on an old computer in the garage with an large monitor so can call up pages when I need them.
It is too large a file for this TR Forum site that has a max of 1.95MB so if you want it PM me with your email.
Regards
Charles
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Good point Roger it was the front PS but I believe that I have checked the steering components thoroughly and even replaced the ball joints as a precaution. The movement was very obvious on the steering mountings when I looked at it and as I mentioned earlier upon tightening the clamps the steering firmed up straight away.
On that point Peter mentioned a rubber compressing tool, is this mandatory or can new rubber mounts be fitted without? I was looking at the workshop manual and it shows the tool.
I think I will share the PDF of the manual as everyone should have it. I will put in as a new topic.
Regards
Charles
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Ahh yes the quality may have suffered in my cheap purchase only time will tell, but I could buy 3 of these for the cost of the expensive version. I have already done 300 miles and so far...............so good
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Had the Dynamotor for over a month now and am delighted with it. In the end it was easy to fit and although I never changed the amp instrument it has only ever been close to the max charge pin and that was when it was first fitted and the battery was low charge. A very worthwhile upgrade and indistinguishable from the original Dynamo.
Recommended A+ upgrade
Charles
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Just changed to TRRI this year and have used their recovery service (when wheel came off) I changed from RC who were very good but as the premiums were about the same I decided that the fringe benefits specific to the TR Register would be worthwhile ( ie drive other members TRs (not that I ever have). They also have an agreed value with just 6 photos and special terms for reinstating a crashed car or some such either way there is plenty of choices out there. You pays your money you takes your choice!
Charles
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Thanks guys I did see this upgrade in the Rimmer catalogue and reading the blurb saw that the main benefit was that it was long lasting as opposed to the rubber used originally that starts to go spongy after just 2 years, it also claimed that it gave a more direct though less comfortable feel to the SW. The Pollybush I have ordered is guaranteed to last 36000 miles and gives a better more comfortable feel to the SW so I have opted for a long lasting yet comfortable solution....or so it says! Either way I trust this will sort my steering out, having lost a wheel last month (earlier topic refers) my wife would never travel in the TR again if she thought it was likely to career into on -coming traffic.
Cheers
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Hello again Roger and thank you for a very helpful checklist.
I went through your list and discovered all was well apart from what I have since read is a problem called 'RACK FLOAT' (according to the Rimmer catalogue) and is due to the rubber mounts losing their rigidity. This was why at 30 mph I could move the steering wheel (large 15"spoked version) about 3" either way before getting any meaningful change of direction and a sensation of "spongyness". I tightened up the clamps and immediately noticed a firmer feel so have ordered a couple of pollybush 'blue' steering mounts for circa £16 and free delivery from a decent seller on EBAY.
Little by little I am sorting this beast!
Charles
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Thanks all I don't think it was as bad as that a month ago so thanks again for your warnings I will not be taking it out again until it's fixed.
Regards
Charles
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My TR4A has about 3 inches of free play in the steering, it is like catching up with where the car is when I go to correct direction (bit like boating). My MGB by comparison had a very firm feel compared to the TR and I am not sure if this is usual.
Is there anything I can do to make it feel more direct or is this a new part issue? If so what is the minimum I need to do?
Thoughts please.
Many thanks
Charles
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Good luck Ernest, Bill and others trying to make this expensive decision.
My group either had bought their cars already done or the people they used had either retired or had gone out of business. That's why I went to 5 different paint shops and car restorers before I chose a father and son Paintshop. With all my careful investigations it still went wrong. I actually think that many members wouldn't actually recommend the people they used because of some dissatisfaction or other. The Paintshop I used lost various bolts and substituted others with non SS ones, they bent over the dash pad and split it in a couple of places etc. This may be a case of being suspicious of low ball quotes that are qualified with " of course it depends what we find when we ......." Despite what I said if you can't find a local firm it may be worth travelling to one that has been recommended, don't do what I did.
BTW on balance unless you are a purist 2k seemed to be the preference for restorers who all agreed it was a harder wearing and less fading paint process just saying.
Charles
Kevo's Tour Of Spain & France
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Oh no I just bought a Mimosa yellow one