cotswold
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Posts posted by cotswold
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Interesting that they are done in brass as in this country they are normally done in Stainless. Not too keen on the cross hatching scratches though as I would have thought that would have taken the edge off the seal pretty quick.
Stuart.
I agree is there a reason they didnt give it a polished finish?
Charles
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The US is quite a big place can you narrow it down a bit
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Hi Charles,
before adding anything to the tank try to assess the environment in the car - air quality.
A number of posters have mentioned/complained of very strong odours and headaches - could be the additive.
Roger
Hi Roger,
I have expereinced strong odours in the cabin (okay lads joking apart) but I believe mine are due to the centre exhausts fitted on the car by a previous owner, I raised this before on the forum and many others had this issue as well.......
Charles
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Although a bit old (2011), there's quite a nice summary to be found at:
http://www.classiccars4sale.net/classic-car-how-to-guides/restoration/a-guide-to-unleaded-additives
I've heard in the past that the Castrol Valvemaster Plus additive is a good combination of valve seat protection and Octane boost. Not sure if anyone on the forum could vouch for it.
I used Castrol Valvemaster in my 1963 unconverted MGB. I never had any problems and the car ran beautifully, but whos to say that was the reason?
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Thanks James I sent you a pm.
Cheers
Charles
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So nothing to do with the leds then.......
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Here is an interesting article from the Carcoon people:
carcoon.com.au
It describes using dehumidifiers as "expensive and futile" - i suppose they would, wouldn't they - but also confirms the above that the device does not heat or dry the air passed through but that it relies purely on ventilation.
It is nice to have one's opinion so authoritatively confirmed.
John
Err not quite true as the dehumidifier I use (pic shown earlier) does indeed send out warmish air and has a swing motion that wafts it about a bit. My garage which is partly underground is now always dry and not freezing so making it nice to work in, I also use a fan heater to bring it up to circa 12C when I am in there. I keep old copies of the TR Action in the garage and over winter they would smell damp and wrinkle up but the newer editions after the dehumidifier was installed are dry and normal. The machine pulls many litres of water out of the air so the car never smells damp and I can get at it without any bother, I dont know how much it costs to run, it does say its efficient and cheap, but whatever it is its worth it to keep off the damp.
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Hi guys,
Just saw these on Ebay they are cree festoon lamps, just solder one of these into your boot light and BOOM all lit up, they are 5w output and uses less that 1w power also they wont get as hot as the glass festoons and will last 20,000 hours, whats not to like? Copy this lnk.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331418020063?tfrom=350770086507&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal
Charles
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Hi Paul,
I bought a digital timer and set it now for 4 times a day . 07.30-10.00, 16.00-18.00, 10.30-1.00am, and 2.30-5.30. Not at home just now but from memnory I leave set with the ioniseer on and continuous.
Charles
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Hi Charles,
Its a shame that you're finding the TR6 PI a bit of a challenge to get tuned, but do stick with it. In my opinion (and experience so far) once they are sorted they are then good & reliable.
When I bought my TR6 in 2012 I had the same symptoms as you. Full throttle good, idle fair, but light throttle and cruise very lumpy (to the point of only 4 cyl running almost). I think Rob Salisbury has the most likely issue. It was indeed butterfly sychronisation, in my case the linkage was all worn and so cyl 1 & 2 throttles were opening far later than the rest.
The tell-tale on my car was that I have a manifold/MU vacuum gauge. At part throttle the needle vibrated around badly as each time cyl 1 or 2 were on induction stroke the vacuum had a peak.
I re-bushed, and carefully setup the throttle linkages so everything was even and in synch. What an improvement!! Part throttle now steady and smooth on all cylinders, idle smoothness improved, and this was confirmed with a pretty steady vacuum gauge at part throttles.
The other tip (if you've not already done it) is to check the valve clearances before working on the butterflies. Again this relates to each cylinder taking in the same induction air and keeping everything in sych.
By the way, the reason idle can still be fair with this fault is that at idle the butterflies are almost completely shut, and most air is admitted through the brass idle screw and then down the throttle body balance tube, so this bypasses any butterfly issues.
So in conclusion, as vacuum gauges are not expensive I'd suggest buying one and T-ing it in to the MU vacuum line, and running a temporary pipe to the interior or somewhere you can see it while driving. This will tell you if butterfly synchronisation is the issue or not.
Also generally the MU don't have major issues, apart from seals potentially springing a leak, the design is such that each cylinder will get the same amount of fuel injected for a given vacuum. The issue is often butterfly setup so that the correct amount of induction air is also admitted to get the right fuel/air mix.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
Cheers,
J.
James that is very useful and thanks for taking the time to explain this. I had read somewhere that the Butterflies could be an issue but I think re-bushing etc may be a step to far for me.
I know it will cost me but in the Spring I will take it to someone like Enginuity and have them test it. I bought the TR6 as I had a Vitesse in my 20s and loved the smooth 6 cylinder but as you say mine at the moment is almost like a 4 Cyl and actually less smooth at low speeds than my Velosolex French moped that purrs along at 15mph ha ha.All the best
Charles
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We waste our time Peter
no more reply from me .Thanks for adding to the discussion Neil I assure you that I am very grateful for all the opinions and help given on these forums. I changed from a 4A to a PI TR6 and have not the thing running smoothly since I bought it. Having tried in my novice way to sort it I will give up now and drive it to an expert to sort out in the Spring.
Regards
Charles
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As Promised.
Thanks Niall,
Good to see but I dont have this, they must have been replaced at some time.
Regards
Charles
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Hi All
Just about to get my repainted Tr6 back in the next week or two, if they finish on time!!
Its a rolling chassis complete with suspension, engine gearbox etc, but a completly bare body, so still lots of work to do.
The only place for it to go is my mom's 60's built garage.
Its not really bad but it does get slightly damp as it has a slab floor (i assume on soil) not solid concrete.
When i've left bare metal in the before it does eventually rust but things don't end up wet.
So is a de-humidifier a good idea or am i wasting my time and money.
Does anyone have any experience using on and what sort of capacity is needed.
Cheers
Keith
Hi Keith,
You may be interested in the attached from a Sunday paper supplement. It is exactly the same as I have and it works brilliantly it has a pipe to empty it so no need to do it manually. I have this on a timer and the good thing about this machine is that it remembers its setting when switched off and resumes when power is restored. I keep mine at 40% and on Medium setting it also has an ion setting which I leave on as well. It is cheap to run as its a dessicant not a compressor. Forget Carcoon its too expensive and restricting. This will keep all your garage and tools rust free as well.
Charles
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Hi Mike
I sorted this problem by buying another boot light on ebay (circa £8) and installing it the other side, this looks good and between them you can see all in the boot at night. I may swap both to LED festoon bulbs if one of them bulbs goes.
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Great idea Stuart apart from the electronic ignition I would prefer to keep the original dizzy
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I am puzzled as all the black OEM injection pipes that I have ever seen are always stamped up?Bruce
Maybe someone else can explain why as I guarantee mine doesn't I looked forensically with a powerful torch and adopted several unnatural positions to see the various sides of the nuts to check.
Charles
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Thanks all. I changed the 5&6 injection leads back and retimed to 11BTDC and took it for another 5 mile run. It is still not healthy and only feels right when accelerating. I have been wiring in a fog light and new spot lights ready for next year whilst I have been struggling with the engine and will now probably winterise the car and put it to bed as I am off to spend the next three months in the Far East and Australia.
Hopefully next year I can either cure it myself (maybe a new Powerspark Dizzy) or find a TR specialist who can assist me and get the thing running smoothly. Some time ago I was contemplating ditching the PI as years ago I had a Vitesse with carbs that ran as smoothly as a sowing machine.
Thanks again
Charles
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This is my dehumidifier which works really well. The garage has some natural ventilation and in my experience and accoring to the two seperate sensors I have at the front and back of the garage it keeps it at 44/47% at the back where the machine is and the door isn't and 57% at the door end. I have no rust on my tools since I started using it for 10 hours in a 24 hour cycle, just saying
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Hi Charles,
you appear to be having fun - not!!
29mph - is that in 2nd or 3rd - way too slow for 4th surely.
Roger
Hi Roger,
That was a typo it is around 20ish in second when the engine is lumpy. I am nearly at the stage where I will find an expert to retune it and check the butterflys etc etc. I tried 11 BTDC it just ran faster but didn't cure the take up. It has an electronic ignition so I adjusted it to 4 BTDC as it ran better at that setting.
Charles
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If you look at the injector pipes where they connect to the injector they have numbers from 1 to 6 stamped on one of the flats of the square section? Regarding starting, I do the same as Neil but also back fill the black injector pipes with petrol before screwing on the injector. When I changed all my injectors 2 seasons ago I had my car running in under 10mins!
Bruce.
Hi Bruce no not on my set up I checked with a bright cob light all around them. Thanks anyway.
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Thanks I will, was thinking that maybe the slow pick up could be the distributor as the metering unit appears quite new?
Charles
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If you look at the injector pipes where they connect to the injector they have numbers from 1 to 6 stamped on one of the flats of the square section? Regarding starting, I do the same as Neil but also back fill the black injector pipes with petrol before screwing on the injector. When I changed all my injectors 2 seasons ago I had my car running in under 10mins!Bruce.
Excellent I will check tomorrow thanks Bruce
Charles
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Ok guys thanks, the car now has newly refurbished injectors, new ht leads, new electronic ignition, new coil, new plugs, good compression on all cylinders and tuned to 4BTDC. The car runs fine over 2000 rpm but at 29mph it chugs making slow driving along quiet village jerky. At idle it runs well but pulses a misbeat somewhere and is a beat slow on pick up.
can anyone suggest anything else or shall I just send the metering unit to Neil Ferguson?
Charles
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Darn it those were the ones I thought were wrong in the first place so I swapped them over the lableing was probably OK then if the others are correct?
De-humidifier a good idea?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Agreed, as they say 'you pays your money and takes your choice' .....