cotswold
-
Content Count
286 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by cotswold
-
-
I purchased two new UK front side light lenses from TRGB for circa £48 as two new complete lights were circa £300. You need a piece of cardboard 4"x 2" to slot into the lens where the orange and white meet I shaped the end where it would meet the dished holder by the bulb. Once you have cut a suitable piece of plastic (mine came from a laundry tablet container you could simply glue the finished plastic to the lens. I decided to glue it into the holder. I drilled a hole in the side of the compartment for the wires to a white marker bulb and holder(Ebay £5 for 5) then glued the light to the fitting and soldered the earth lead to the existing earth bullet. I did both in a day and sprayed the finished fitting with silver paint I had in the garage. It isn't a precision job but quite serviceable I think. Good luck
-
Looks great in body colour wouldnt change the combo
-
Thanks Marcel that is a very useful YouTube and educational for me, thanks also to Stan I may well try that but if I feel it is risky would buy a spring compressor looks like a few hours happily spent on the car over the winter in my warm garage.
-
Thanks Stan but someone has previously changed the other bushes but left these upper ones, can I just replace them without taking the whole thing apart?
Maybe because they are difficult they left them.
Charles
-
Excellent thanks guys
-
I have just ruined one of my steel 's' shaped caliper to hose connectors.
I have a couple of questions, firstly as the rest of the system is in good condition does anyone know if there is anywhere I can get one made up against the old template?And secondly can I mix copper with steel using DOT 4
Hope you guys can help.
Thanks
Charles
-
Hello,
Can someone tell me if I can easily replace these bushes? I see the assembly fits in a body recess so can you actually remove the castellated nuts and remove the arms or is this a complete dismantle job? Any procedure tips appreciated ie do you put a jack under the wishbone to relieve the tension?
Thanks
Charles
-
Well done Nigel, I didn't have the space to do up another Spit so bought mine for £7,200 fully restored so I reckon you did well. Have to say that I have used it more than the TR6 as it is actually more fun to drive on shorter distances. Good luck on the rebuild.
Charles
-
-
-
I am sure that some of you out there have issues getting under the car. To date I have used a trolley Jack and axle stands but its just not high enough and my nose is pressed up against the underside of the car. I don't have the option of a pit but I need to get it higher. I have a low 7 foot ceiling so even if I could afford the luxury of a post lift one wouldn't fit.Having said that I just found a low post one out there but its ludicrously expensive (iro £5,000). I have searched for a pair of synchronised long hydraulic ramps that would lift the car leaving the centre area clear, seems simple enough but cant find anything. I was wondering if I bought two sets of hydraulic ramps (£117 a pair on ebay) and simply drove the car up one set then trolley jacked the rear until I could get the second pair of ramps under the rear wheels then pump them all up? Is there a more simple but cheaper solution? I saw a car display ramp for sale at £200 has anyone used one of these to work on a car?
Any help appreciated
Thanks
Charles
-
Refitting the metering unit in my 6 and tightening the steering column brackets on the Spitfire to eliminate vertical play, hopefully then a bit more sun for run.
charles
-
The clutch is Ok ish now. The pedal stop tab is removed the MC linkage has been tightened and the 4 unneeded washers I used to move the SC forward have been removed. I will wait until I meet a fellow TR6 owner at my next club meeting to compare clutch feel but I can select 1st and reverse without force or protest from the gearbox.
The rough running at low revs noticeable when trundling in slow traffic has been diagnosed by Neil Ferguson who said he had never seen a metering unit so badly adjusted, can't wait to put it back in in time for the classic meets. My car now has Moss classic leather seats, a painted coach line and wire wheels and I think looks amazing so hopefully will now run like it looks.
-
Just seen the Jaguar Imperial maroon and I agree with Stuart. I think this would look fantastic with all he TR4A chrome.
-
Thanks, just discovered that it came from British Columbia Canada but I guess its the same procedure.
Charles
-
-
Thanks for the suggestions guys, the original colour was green but I have the chance to do something else. If the Rosso red (yes its a metallic) suited it I wouldn't personally worry too much about it being a non original colour as I would be keeping the car, the MGB I sold made well over normal value precisely due to it being attractive and different. I will check out the Stag Carmine, the Porsche red really pops and looks gorgeous Tom but I am looking for darker more Claret/Burgundy type of colour. Any other pics and suggestions?
Thanks
Charles
-
Hi Guys,
I had an MGB that had been painted in the above Maserati colour and IMHO it was one of the most attractive I have seen on a classic car.
Does anyone know if a TR4A exists with this colour? I am considering a ground up restoration of a barn find and have the chance to pick any colour I like. I sold a Royal Blue one last year and it looked beautiful but I wonder what it would look like in this rich red?
Thanks
Charles
See pics
-
Thanks Nige
Will do, thanks for the advice and good luck with yours.
What is a 'certificate of title' I suspect that I can only get a sale agreement from the guy?
Charles
-
Hi Guys,
I have just come across a barn find! It is a DOM 1966 TR4A Chassis CT 70837L (North American export). It was imported with papers from C&E dated 31/1/1991. Some work was undertaken and the body removed and painted with chassis and running gear sorted. It was then put under a cover in a garage for the past 25 years. It is of course not an IRS and has ridged suspension on springs.
It was never offered to the DVLA for its first "Licence and declaration for registration" and naturally never driven on the road so no MOT record, but as I said has been imported and besides the import entry number dated 30/1/1991it says VRM allocated. My first thought is to ask you all before I inevitably find that I can't speak to anyone at the DVLA for grown up advice!
So the question is:-
- If I buy it as a project what should I do as it has been imported but never registered and its in bits so I cant submit the car anywhere for testing, does it need a SORN etc
Thanks guys
Charles
PS I have a nice TR6 but miss the TR4A IRS I stupidly sold last year.
-
Update
Simon at WCC has sorted the pedal slack on the MC push rod and all ok on the test drive. The irregular low running on the engine was worn PI butterfly linkage that responded to some fettling. I expect a call from him on Tuesday and fingers crossed my yellow peril will be sorted and with luck no need to pull out the clutch (estimated at circa £300 labour + VAT and parts).
-
Hi all,
Decided to give up and take the car to Worcester Classic Cars for Simon to take a look at. He immediately saw that I had 1/2" free play before the pedal activated the push rod and siad he would start with that, probably drill it out and put in an oversize clevis or bolt. I know I hear you cry, how many times in this thread have several of you told me that! I know but I thought that by adding a few washers at the SC end would compensate. Simon patiently explained that in effect I was a muppet as no amount of moving the plate (29) or adding washers would make any difference apart from moving the piston further back into the SC as its self adjusting after each pedal depress it returns to the straight down clutch lever resistance position. The only way to adjust is to remove the stop tab on the clutch pedal and remove play from the push rod (ok I hear you again). Look the thing is I have never come across a clutch like this, usually on classics I have owned the clutch lifts off many inches at half the pedal push and engages at the same point. This clutch acuates at the very bottom after 6 inches of pressure.
Simon says the same as you guys that if the eradication of the slack on the push rod doesn't cure it then out comes the gearbox and J type overdrive to sort the taper pin out, he will let me know (he will remove the washers on the SC still chucking at my ineptitude no doubt. Hope this assists others ...........
Thanks again everyone your advice as always was spot on.
-
Hi Guys,
Here are some pics and information in response to your questions thank you so much for the support.
John
No Spring on SC
1” before MC piston contact
2” before resistance at slave
7 1/2” pedal at rest to bulkhead
Neither the MC nor SC have adjustable rods
Peter & Roger see pic is this right re plate? It doesn’t look like it would fit the other side anyway without fouling the casing.
Colin, Could be but this was the one on the car when I bought it and although it has run OK the gears have always been a bit tricky to engage.
-
Hi Roger
There is a gap between the push rod and the vertical clutch lever (will go and measure later) and the plate 29 is behind the flange, do you think it should be the other side? Looking at Peters link to a previous thread on a clutch it would seem to be correct at the further away position, it would certainly help by moving the plate and slave forward, if so I may not need the two washers I used as spacers if I moved it to the other side? I already have the push rod on the uppermost lever hole.
Converting TR6 Yellow US sidelights to UK spec
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Ahh but now I have more white light at the front, a UK spec looking car AND an orange flasher if you'll excuse the expression lol