oldtuckunder
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Posts posted by oldtuckunder
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On 10/12/2018 at 11:34 AM, Bill.P. said:
always remember that of the 55 or so D type Jags built only around 100 still exist ! ! BP
I think I'll remember that line for a long time!
Alan
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I wasn't, it was a swipe at those who thought the DVLA were the right body to contact about 5/250 chassis numbers!
Alan
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Put a meter on the coil +, probably no power or very low voltage whilst engine being cranked.
Or the engine is a bit pissed about being spun over so quickly its getting its own back!
Alan
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On 10/3/2018 at 6:55 PM, Paul Hogan said:
If I'm not mistaken this is Alan Fishburn's car which has been subject to a number of inquiries as to its voracity as an ex works car. The story i have is that the car languished in a Durham Scrap yard for years and was little more than a pile of rust. Both Mike Ellis and myself have seen photo's of a badly rusted chassis and its subsequent restoration. The fly in the ointment is that someone else sent me a photograph of his garage with PKV375 standing next to the Le Mans TR7V8 turbo. Sadly the owner of that car wont let anyone see it either but he says he has the V5 too. But whatever paper work the DVLA hand out, the car cannot be in Somerset and the North East at the same time!
Hoges.
For God's sake don't post this on the TR5 Forum, they will be down in Swansea dragging the CEO of the DVLA out of bed by breakfast and demanding under the FOA that he publish the VIN's and Registration numbers of every TR in the DVLA system. You know how up tight they get about the possibility that the odd TR250 might be masquerading as a TR5, imagine what their reaction would be to 30% of the Le Mans TR2's being fake!
Of course a perfect lead in to How much of a TR5 can you replace and it still be a TR5? Of which I think I have seen explained just about 100% provided you have a genuine log book/V5
Alan (ducking for cover)
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On 9/30/2018 at 11:06 AM, AarhusTr6 said:
Hi George
So based on what you say, I have a vacuum advance tube from the top going to a vacuum retard on the dizzy. Well the Distributor Doctor suggested getting rid of that when I send my dizzy to him, so I will plug that one anyway.
For a Road Car you probably want to retain the vacuum advance on the dissy, with a pipe to the top of the rear carb, I think in your first post I can just see the edge of that port. Vacuum retard isn't going to buy you anything if all the US emission stuff has been removed, apart from confuse you when setting up the timing as people won't know if you should be seeing 10 BTDC or 4 ATDC. NB I don't consider the Temperature Compensators an emission device, set up properly and maintained they actually serve a useful purpose.
I do notice from your pictures that you have the domes of your Strombergs fitted 90deg out! there is a small lug on the side of the dome and body that should be aligned. When Stromberg built the carbs it was done on purpose, correct orientation can have a significant effect on the alignment/movement of the air pistons, this is very apparent if you get the opportunity to work with NOS CD carbs, but gets less obvious if they have been assembled from SH parts bins whilst being refurbished, or some twat has sent them off for Polished Exchanged Domes, or failed to mark and keep the Domes, Air Pistons and Bodies as matched sets. Some people will claim it makes no difference, but they have probably been playing with shagged sets for so long that they wouldn't notice the difference
However sometimes if all the bits are original but just jumbled up front to back because someone didn't realise it was important, if the two carbs are displaying different lift and drop characteristics careful swapping of the parts around with the domes in the correct orientation can sometimes hit lucky and restore a lot of the balance.
Alan
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11 deg static is crank deg, 7 deg Dissy is half crank deg, so your max advance measured at crank should be 11 + (7x2) = 25
Alan
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When cranking the engine I have approx 9.5v at the coil and the car will not start.
If I attach my small m/c battery to the coil with the ignition wire STILL ATTACHED it will not start.
If I attach my m/c battery to the coil but REMOVE the ignition wire the car starts.
I think you have just answered your own question, when ignition wire connected whatever is drawing the voltage low on the main battery is also pulling the m/c battery down.
Where are you taking the supply for the electronic ignition module from? Coils will quite often cope with lower voltages but in my experience the ignition modules won't. Have you measured the voltage to the ignition module when cranking? If that's dropping to 9.5V as well than that may be the problem.
If the supply is via the ignition switch, then it could be the switch breaking down (not unknown) so just try hot wiring it bypassing the ignition switch and retry and measure the voltage. If ignition switch not the problem then I'd be suspecting starter of either starting to fail and drawing too much current, or bad earths from starter/engine block, try connecting a jump lead from one of the bolts holding the starter on straight back to battery negative and try again.
If still no luck, get the battery tested, it may just be failing under heavy drain load.
Alan
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red Gunge its the correct cylinder grease, usually get a small sachet with replacement seal kits as well.
Bleeding quite often generates the odd air bubble, and then when left to stand they can rise/collect, so next press on pedal feels soft. The important thing is has it now gone away. A few times I have had clutch's that are almost determined not to bleed correctly even when pressured and reverse flow bled, and you know when finished there is still air in there! and then all on their own a day or two later they are suddenly fine.
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Try calling S&S Preparations.
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but 3 have dropped oot, and the other GT6 driver, es gon t,compete ina TVR
nanes of hand, Jim Johmstone, Tom Purves, Colin Elstrop. missing
Unfortunately Jim rolled the TR6 after suspension failure earlier in the year but fortunately as I understand not too badly hurt, but the car is a mess, but I believe being rebuilt.
Tom had an engine bay fire whilst driving home a month back, and the car nearly burnt out, currently being professionally rebuilt! given how immaculate the car was I think that's going to be some insurance bill.
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There is a thread on here somewhere from late last year / early this year where someone contacted all the Premium suppliers about ethanol content, and only Esso would state that their premium contained no ethanol.
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I normally use Esso 97 Octane, but it seems to run OK on any of the others.
Bob.
I switched to the Esso Premium for the competition car this year, as I believe its now the only Premium guaranteed not to have ethanol. Car running well on it!
Alan
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Just a quick update, replaced K&N Cone Filter with 14" section of 3" drainpipe, with approx 16sqin of holes in, with an outer foam filter condom, and working perfectly taking nice cold air from the front, not hot under bonnet air. Filter condom slides off for washing etc as required.
Floor the pedal and it roars, rather than chokes!
Alan
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+1
Also shows the importance of getting oil hot to expel moisture, and why short journeys in classics are so damaging.
Alan
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I know this is an old thread but can anyone recommend a company that can line bore a triumph 6 block to take spitfire cam bearings. I have tried a few companies in bucks and oxfordshire but none seem able to do this.
Thanks
Chris
Rob Walker Engineering Witney
Can highly recommend.
http://www.robwalkerengineering.co.uk/aboutus.html
Alan
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I think the problem may be "who" specified the K&N's for the engine, as Niall pointed out it appears that the K&N replacement for the Spitfire 1500 probably isn't up to the job, as I reported the TR6 replacement looks as though it has similar problems.
How many K&N's are specified on the grounds they fit the space available rather than that anyone has actually sized them correctly. And given that it appears that there is no technical data on the current flow rates of K&N filters, or filter material, it can only be done by trial and error, and even if someone did it 20 years ago, would they bother to retest with new K&N filters or just assume that nothing has changed?
Of course for the average road car its not very important if they are choked a bit at high rpm's. But it does appear that bolting on a set of K&N's replacements far from releasing horsepower as they claim may actually do the opposite, from what the research paper showed.
Alan
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probably too embarrassed
Alan
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I know Waldi, just joshing
can datalog that stuff on the Vitesse, but the most sophisticated measurement available on this TR8, is a Temperature Gauge that always under reads, a Speedo that already allows for 10% + 2 on the speed limit, and a petrol gauge that will dump you somewhere unknown if you venture too far below 1/4! 
Seat of the pants, if the filter is on its choked!
Alan
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Interesting and whilst one has to add a fudge factor into all "scientific" papers, it basically says K&N are crap at virtually everything K&N claim they are good at except for lasting a long time. Expensive Bling then!
Alan
PS.That should be ITG above not KTG but no doubt due to fear that we are all going to end up in court soon I am now no longer able to Edit it!
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I fitted K&Ns to my 4A about ten years ago and they have easily paid for themselves compared to the oval paper ones I was replacing each year at £16+ a pair..
Unfortunately in this situation we are looking for effectiveness not cost efficiency.
If you can measure MAP that would help to better understand the issue.
If tha'ts "Mad And Pissed off" then it reading high
Heres an under bonnet photo of my 3.9 Litre Rover V8 engine which I hope was maybe giving more HP than where you are now, notice its fed from the original Rover air filter chamber but it now has 2 x KN filters inside the box. The air feed in was taken from the front of the bumper from either side, a handy Bartol drainpipe ( water and air flow is very similar ) 90 def bend with flow direction marked on it takes the air into the standard plenum. Worked fine up to 7000 revs which is probably more than you want to use ?
Roger is correct, its access to flow which is needed, double up on the air filters. Sorry replying from my I phone and cant rotate the photo.
Mick Richards
Thanks Mick, yes we have a limit of 6K on a 3.5, so not quite the same demand. Plan currently is to take duct from plenum round to infront of radiator (and yes already found the correct drain pipe fittings!) and then create a long transverse round filter tube across the front above the air dam but hidden from sight by the bumper overhang. KTG have nicely worked out the flow rate required and the area required and which of their filter foam grades to use, so when it arrives will construct and test and see what the results are.
Alan
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PS - you need to get hold of the data for the filter litres/min airflow. through the filter compared to that being required by the engine.
Unfortunately K&N now provide absolutely zero technical information on any of their filters, other than what size they are. Probably enough to make me avoid them in the future. K&N now seem to think that having a filter that will do a million miles is the most important technical attribute, and any performance claims probably derive from replacing a clogged up old paper. From my results a very expensive piece of bling with no technical merit.
Interestingly a couple of TR6 competition cars in our Championship running with K&N's in the original Air filter box, who for the timed runs always disconnect the pipe from the plenum at the filter end, swearing the car always went better. As with all these things there was always a suspicion of superstition, but I'm now starting to believe it.
Alan
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Hi Roger
I know you know way more about airflow than I do, and I hadn't considered that airflow over the surface of the filter could actually slow its passage of air.
I had always worked on the theory that induction worked by air rushing from atmospheric (high pressure) to fill the low pressure in the cylinder, but your implying that airflow over the the filter surface may be in effect reducing the atmospheric pressure around the filter, but that when in a container (filter housing) or out of the airflow this effect wouldn't happen.
Wish I had a regular paper filter the same size to try in the same place. Actually Know what I will try before we junk the K&N is to mount it in the engine bay and try it, if problem goes away then it would be interesting result. Still wouldn't solve the problem that the last place we wan't to take air from is under the bonnet, but at least might explain the cause of the problem.
Alan
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I agree, just trying to say that even in the unlikely event cold I'd think you'd get more than 10psi, so I'd probably not be rushing to pull the crank first in trying to find the problem.
Alan
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You may need to double up on the cone filters.
Hang on this thing has 1.5 times the area of the K&N recommended for a 2.5 TR6, and we are saying that 85-90 sqin (possibly double that area if we take the corrugations) won't flow the same air as 7 sqin pipe.
Interesting that the K&N site now has no technical details at all about flow rates etc, the most technical detail you can find is that "they are guaranteed to deliver more horsepower" nothing on their site (which I'm sure there used to be) to size filters to cfm etc.
Interesting that their recommendation for a TR8 is two small cone filters, which I just calculated have jointly only 2/3rds the area of the big single one.
Alan
Which needles?
in General TR Technical
Posted · Edited by oldtuckunder
When you want to get it right there are only
twothree options, luck, a lot of time on the rolling road, or buy a wideband sensor(s) with data logging capability. The latter will work out way cheaper in the long run!, and you'll learn a lot in the process.Alan
Actually I do use a Rolling Road as well, but only to get the final tweak and some real numbers.