[TR4 bonnet woes]

thanks all

 

Mick's explanation of a wobble board & Roger's photos explain it well

 

my bonnet has a large gap between the bonnet & the cross member so it will need some remedial work to get it to a point where we can fit *& compress some felt or similar between it & the bonnet

 

at least I know what to do now

 

many thanks gents

 

G

[TR4 bonnet woes]

thanks Graeme

 

will give me something to work on

 

Graze

[TR4 bonnet woes]

my TR4 bonnet was not well secured to the cross member at the front or the webs that come from that

 

it started to crack about 1/3 of the way into the drivers side headlight "eyebrow"

 

had it properly repaired, welded in behind, drilled at end of crack, webs fixed to underside of bonnet etc

 

in no time at all mileage wise its cracking again and migrating inwards, also started to crack on the other side too

 

I see moss have bonnet strengthening pieces

 

can someone please advise

1. where they are fitted
2. should the structural cross member be hard up to the underside of the bonnet & sikaflex bonded to the bonnet (or should it float beneath the bonnet like mine?)
3. should the webs off the cross member be sikaflex bonded also

any other suggestions to remedy this once and for all

 

many thanks

 

Graeme

[TR4 engine bay photos]

Hi Graze,

 

Sorry to rain on your parade but tractive effort is not torque lb ft as we know and love it. From memory you need to multiply it by rolling radius of tyres and divide by the final drive ratio ie if measured in top gear of 1:1 ratio you divide by the diff ratio 3.7- 4.1 etc. But I'd need to check that, long time since I've calculated such.

 

Mick Richards

Ok Mick that's fine as I couldn't believe it either

 

based on your calcs that is 113.5ftlb of torque

 

Graze

[TR4 engine bay photos]

Yep more than the classic BMW V8 engines which only has 360 lb ft give or take.

 

I think Graze has misquoted there probably meaning 120 lb ft, a 86mm engine on SUs is likely around 130 lb ft when built carefully.

 

Mick Richards

Mick

 

I thought it was huge too

 

But I have a graph which shows 420lb - unless I'm reading it wrongly

 

(Mick it says Tractive Effort 420lb )

 

Car does seem to go quite well

 

Graeme

[TR4 engine bay photos]

Hamish

 

The main point for me on the Reno was to get the AFR correct with the Mikuni carbs

 

It showed 104 bhp at the wheels and 420ftlb torque

 

Car is going well but using a lot of fuel - around 20mpg

 

Graze

[TR4 engine bay photos]

well thanks for the photos

 

 

 

here is how she ended up - second time lucky I'm hoping

 

 

and here it is on the long way home from the engine builder after we changed the oil & tightened up the head

 

 

[TR4 engine bay photos]

There's a few pics of mine 'in the build' here:-)

 

http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr4a-engine-bay.html

 

Best

 

Paul.

thanks paul

[TR4 engine bay photos]

Did you get sorted Graze?

I have some which might help if you still need any.

 

Nick

thanks Nick

 

its now all together - goes to dyno tune on Friday

 

this is the only photo i have at present

 

will post up some pics and details from the dyno

 

Graze

[TR4 engine bay photos]

Michael, David, Peejay

 

Many thanks guys, from those I can make some educated choices on how to proceed

 

alanR - fair point about non standard bits, hadn't considered that, sorry

 

Steph - I did try google but wasn't finding anything helpful, also looked through old magazines

 

I am mainly interested in the wiring, fuse box, relays and piping for fuel and brakes as all the rest is pretty much set

- alloy radiator, black alloy shroud

- air horns on passenger side

- coil mounted on passenger side inner guard

- mikuni carbs and custom linkage with K &N filters

 

Thanks again guys

 

Graze

[Moving On.....]

John

 

Sorry to see you leave, great car and a wonderful opportunity for someone

 

Regards

 

Graze

[TR4 engine bay photos]

Oh come on guys

 

200 views and no one has a photo?

 

Really?

 

Graze

[Suspension question TR6]

Peter

 

TR6

 

Thanks for your reply

 

Will take the spacers out and put standard insulators in

 

Graeme

[TR4 engine bay photos]

About to refit everything into the engine bay following having it all repainted while the engine is being re-built

 

Would appreciate photos of well sorted engine bays (not concourse) as mine was a U.S. Car originally and was converted to RH drive many years ago (and much fiddling had been done since) so while I have photos of what was installed, this is my chance to create a tidy good looking engine bay

 

Thanks in advance

 

Email is gs at davissommerville dot com if that's easier

 

Graze

[Suspension question TR6]

Richard

 

Hope you don't mind me asking a related question

 

Just fitted new uprated Racestorations springs and adjustable Spax shocks all round

 

Car is sitting about 50mm too high at the front - do I need spacers top and bottom on the springs (as I can fit thinner ones) or can I get away without any spacer between spring and mountings

 

Graze

[Opinions sought: engine rebuild kits]

Andrew

 

I think it's worth replacing cam followers with the best you can get - they are cheap!

 

My rebuilt TR4 engine destroyed itself due to cam followers failing (one exploded and jammed the cam at about 4500 revs)

 

I think the valve springs were way over rated contibuting to the problem

 

Graeme

[TR4 gearbox & JType overdrive]

Graeme,

 

Don't know how clued up your guy is. There are a few

essential upgrades of underdesigned components that

would be folly to overlook.

 

AlanR

Alan

 

I don't know how clued up he is either - just that he has rebuilt overdrives in the past

 

Guess I'll find out more today when I go have a chat to him

 

Any hints on the recommended upgrades?

 

Graze

[TR4 gearbox & JType overdrive]

And it needs to be a J type mainshaft which has a metric front spigot, this then has to be mated with the (probably) imperial input shaft.

Rob

Rob

 

thanks

 

as Alan G said any more detail would be appreciated

 

Graeme

[TR4 gearbox & JType overdrive]

Gents

 

I have sent my gearbox and newly acquired JType off to a guy to check ovr the overdrive and then mate them together to go back in the car with the new engine

 

He tells me I'm missing the correct shaft (input? Output? Not sure) to mate them together

 

I am going out the Friday - what should I be looking for or photgraphing, measuring to identify the needed parts

 

Graeme

[Camshaft / distributor drive failure - advice]

You boys are funny

 

But I decided I was happy to pay a premium because we needed the advice Darryl can provide to help get the engine built over here as its almost impossible to find anyone with the experience locally who is still in the trade. And I can't afford for it to go wrong again

 

Graze

[TR5 TR6 Injectors]

Steve

 

Email sent

 

Graeme

[Camshaft / distributor drive failure - advice]

£ss Ouch

 

AlanR

Alan

 

Particularly as this is the second time in six months

 

Graeme

[Fatal Block Damage?]

Great thread Tim and Mick,

 

Thanks for the detail

 

Graeme

[Camshaft / distributor drive failure - advice]

Well all the parts now ordered, mostly from Darryl at Racestorations who has been a great help. List goes something like this:

 

Steel rods (longer), 89mm liners, slipper Pistons, new moly push rods, new followers, new updated timing chain, vernier cam gear, .10 thou undersize bearings, new racestorations cam, Steve Yott billet oil pump ( thanks Hoffman for the referral - lovely bit of kit ), alloy billet water pump, new (2nd hand) sump to take oil temp sensor, newly refurbed J type overdrive being mated to gearbox

 

So when the parts get here next week we start building

 

I'll post photos as it comes along for anyone interested

 

Graze

[Tyres]

New tyres always make the steering feel lighter in my experience

 

My guess is that has to do with the tread depth and it being able to deform under turning

 

Happy for better technical explanation

 

Graze